Need to meet code: Automotive lift and ceiling
SchwimDandy
| Posted in Code Questions on
Hello there, everyone!
I hope this is posted in the correct spot. I purchased a house with a separategarage with a living space above and am now tasked with bringing it up to code. Part of that process is installing 5/8 drywall on the ceiling of the garage. My issue is the installed automotive lift is actually extends beyond the plane of drywall and into the joist cavity.
What can I do to bring this to code? Can I drywall around it, just as I would any other protrusion through the drywall space like pipes, posts and whatnot, using a firestop caulk to seal between the lift metal and drywall?
Thanks for your time!
Replies
I would think so. What does that top tube look like? does it have any holes in the top?
Can you send this question to your local codes enforcement office?
Might be better if you can inset the drywall above to leave some clearance above the lift.
If you drywall right to the lift, it may increase transmission of noise to the upstairs space.
Also, since the lift is anchored to the floor below, instead of the floor above, they will move in relation to each other, due to movement above, and thermal expansion below.
You can look into alternatives to 5/8 type X such as cement board, which would be thinner, or even sheet metal.
Hi there UncleMike and thanks for taking the time to help!
Due to the situation I find myself in, I am hoping to bring it to code without having to ask as I always worry about inspection creep(oh, now that we're looking at it, you shouldn't have a lift either). If I'm not able to come up with what the smarter people agreed would solve my issue, I'll definitely resort to asking the inspector on my next visit.
When you mention the detraction to my proposed solution, it's pretty clear that it's a non-starter and that I need to work in another direction.
Thanks!
Line the bay with 5/8 drywall.
Exactly.
I was not sure at first glance whether the lift bottomed out on a joist.
Should be plenty of room to pull down the insulation, and either line the whole bay, or put a 2x4 cleat on each side, insulate, and install drywall in the inset part, leaving clearance to the top of the lift.
Might be a bit of a challenge to make the finish perfect, with close clearance, but it really does not have to be pretty.
Hello again UM,
The lift cross piece at the top does in fact straddle an existing joist. The PO in fact had to notch the joist in a some spots to get the lift installed. I figured I'd have to cut out that joist and install one on either side to stay of the lift to stay within max allowable spans between the joists. That would make for a challenging drywall finish like you said but I'm not going for finish, I'm just looking to bring the garage into compliance.
Code requires the drywall to be taped.
I wasn't suggesting that I wasn't going to mud and tape, just that it wasn't going to have 4 coats of feathered and sanded work done to it.
You might be able to get within a half inch and stuff the gap with rock wool. (and some flexible sealant over if you like)
I am a little concerned about the cut the joist part.
details matter.
How deep are the existing joists? What is the spacing? Length? (Grade if you can find a stamp) What are the design constraints for the floor above?
You might want to run short (length and height) joists at right angles between the adjacent joists, to take up the load above. you may or may not have to double up the adjacent full height joists.
If you have a competent building department associated with the code compliance, you might want to get a permit and put these details in for them to review.
in either case, you want to check the span tables and make sure you are not getting in trouble structure-wise.