Replies

1. 
   Dinosaur | Oct 29, 2005 06:41am | #1

   You can either rabbet out the back of the casing by a quarter inch (if it's thick enough to get away with that; not often the case) or build up the wall with strips of finish-grade shim stock thick enough to come flush to the face of the window case. The outside edge of the shim stock will be visible when you're done so make sure it's cut cleanly. It does not have to be the full width; an inch wide is sufficient.

   If the amount the windows project past the wall is uniform, the easiest way to install the shims is to rip them to size, then tack them to the back outer edge of the casing stock with hot glue, and cut the casing and shim as a single unit.

   If the projection isn't uniform, you will have to adjust the thickness of the shims individually, and will probably have an easier time of it if you install them to the wall and then nail the casing over them.

   Dinosaur

   A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...

   

   But it is not this day.

2. 
   KelsoChris | Oct 30, 2005 07:59am | #2

   Thanks Dino;

   I had been leaning in the direction of the shimstok and I think I will go in that direction as to give me the amount of reveal I want above the surrounding panelling.  I am planning on using solid yellow pine trim around the windows and I think I will try the hot glue trick.

3. 
   Matt | Oct 31, 2005 02:09pm | #3

   Guess I'm a little dense, but your description is a little hard for me to follow.  Are you saying that the nailing flanges on the windows are sitting proud of the sheathing and therefore your exterior window trim will not nail down flat?  Look at the attached pic and tell me if this is similar to the style of window trim that you are talking about:

   If so, what I did on several houses was:  get a few rolls of foam sill seal and cut it in ~1" strips and staple it up as a shim.  Here is a pic of the material:

   http://www.dow.com/styrofoam/na/res-us/products/sill_seal.htm  It is about 1/4" thick, cheap, and easy to work with.  It compresses a bit, so, if I wanted less than 1/4" I cut the strips narrower so that it would compress more. I wanted to find a fairly quick method using materials that would not be susceptible to rot.  What I did was

   Costs about $12 per house.  Another builder I know used strips of tarpaper that was cut into strips and folded to get the necessary thickness.  Mike Smith here at BT uses strips if Ice and Water seal.  Of course I think my method is the best ;-)  I've used my method on roughly 120 windows.

    

4. 
   Matt | Oct 31, 2005 02:16pm | #4

   I just read your description for about the 4th time and think that my previous response may be way off base since it is still not clear to me weather you are talking about the interior or the exterior of your house.  You did say the windows were proud inside the framing... I was talking about exterior.  Maybe part of the problem is that I don't know what "t&g car siding" is.  The word siding lead me to believe it was an exterior situation, but the word molding being used several times sounded like interior.

   My method might be good for interior casing too.  Sounds really odd though to be applying interior casing right to the framing.

1. 
   KelsoChris | Nov 01, 2005 08:29am | #5

   Matt;

   Thanks for the interest in my predicament.  I am dealing with the interior trim as the carpentewr that installed the window already trimmed out the exterior and did an excellent job I might add. To save on the labor we decided to finish out the interior ourselves ( me, myself and I ).  I have installed new trim around replacement type windows but this is the first time I have worked with new construction  windows.  Since my initial post I have started to install the car siding and will install trim on top of that.  I am using #1 yellow pine and will be trying to match the original trim in our 60+ear old home.  ONce I have the siding done I will rip down some of the pine and plane it to thickness to bridge the gap between the window jamb and the trim.  In the beginning I thought ( do to lack of experience) that it would be best to do the trim around the windows then do the panelling.  I now understand why they call it finish carpentry as hanging the siding first will look much nicer.

1. 
   Matt | Nov 01, 2005 12:38pm | #6

   I learned something out of this too- I just went and Googled "car siding".  Now I know what it is.  As a matter of fact, growing up my family owned a shore cottage (sis still has it) and the entire interior is paneled with what we called "knotty pine T&G paneling" which looks to be the same or a similar product.  Thinking about it, it's that one feature that kind of makes the house. 

   BTW - if your paneling surface is only 1/8" different from your window jamb extensions your molding can probably make up that difference.  That is why most casing molding is "hogged out" on the back.

1. 
   KelsoChris | Nov 02, 2005 07:10am | #8

   Matt;

   The jams stick out 1/4" and the T&G pine is 5/8" so I have from 3/8" to almost 1/2" in places to bridge.  The trim I am using around the windows is 1x yellow pine, not real fancy but when painted it will match the other trim in the house.

   Thanks again

   Chris

5. 
   durabond5 | Nov 02, 2005 12:45am | #7

   Whoever installed the windows should have held the inside of the jambs flush with the inside wall. If the wall was too thin for the jamb, they should have shimmed behing the nailing fin to make it flush. If the wall is thicker than the jamb, extend jamb on inside.