New construction, 2 floors above grade, basement below.
Basement walls have been sudded with 2×4’s. Ready for insulation
and drywall.
Should I use green board with R13 in the basement?
Any thoughts on something other than green board sheet rock for
the basement?
Greatly appreciate any ideas.
Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.
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Replies
If there is no moisture problem in the basement, just use standard drywall.
BTW, don't use faced f/g batts or a poly vp in the basement. You want any moisture in the concrete walls to be able to dry out to the inside.
See http://www.buildingscience.com for details on the recommended basement finishing details.
Dave
Good thought, Dave. How do you feel about a vapor barrier against the concrete, behind the studs?Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Also you don't want to have cold place where moist inside air can get to and condense. That is what the poly againts the concrete can do.In a basment you can have moisture drive in both direction. As in above ground construction in the middle of the country with cold winters and hot moist summers and AC. That is why poly is no recommened in any wall except for the very coldest climates.Personally I like the idea of using sheet foam.Which has been illustrated in FHB a couple of times.Also there is DW that uses FG instead of a paper face. Nothing for mold to feed on.
Bill is right in saying not to use greenboard. When greenboard get moist, it is no better than regular drywall.
My theory about basement leakage is due to inadequate drains outside the basement wall. Even if the outside is waterproofed correctly, drains are never low enough in relation to the slab. Look at some plans, the ones I see, show the drains usually at the height of the slab. Also, by sloping the drain, the pipe ends up higher than the slab.
My solutions have been to place two layers of 10 mill plastic, and then lay non-nailed / non-glued interlocking pergo-type flooring.
Awesome advice so far.
Two things to add.
No wood to concrete contact, anywhere.
Keeping the studs off the ground 1-1/2" lets you avoid trapping moisture in the wall cavity by providing a convection loop, helps to keep your footing warm (depending on where you live may or may not be important), allows for a sub flooring system, and provides blocking for trim nailing.
I definitely recommend either extruded or mid density expanded foam insulation. It does not constitute a VDR but does control some moisture movement and its insulation value is not effected by convection loops or moisture like batt type insulation. If I was using batt type I always use ROXUL, which is a rock slag insulation that is all but fire proof, critters don't like it and if it gets wet, you can dry it out and re-use it.
Lastly, be fanatical about your sill headers, they are one of (if not the) worst areas for air leakage. Make them tight in the beginning when they are accessible and save money thereafter.
Good luck,
Glen in Canada