I need to dig a new footing for a column to support a header. I have about 2′-0″ of crawl space. Any thoughts on digging this footer. It will be 2′-0″ square and 2′-0″ to the bottom. I am thinking of cutting an access through the floor and using a post hole digger. I will be putting down new hardwood floor so cutting the existing floor is not a concern.
Robert
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Replies
Sounds like a plan to me- or, you can crawl in there with a beach pail and shovel- just pretend you're digging your way out of Alcatraz so it's more exciting.....lol
Bob
>>Sounds like a plan to me- or, you can crawl in there with a beach pail and shovel- just pretend you're digging your way out of Alcatraz so it's more exciting.....lolOr play the sound track to "The Great Escape" and pretend to be Steve McQueen!
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Don't forget to wear baggy pants!
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Better yet, I'll just crawl under there and dig it out with my fingernails.
just pretend you're digging your way out of Alcatraz so it's more exciting.....lol
Yeah, that way the snakes & spodders are yur buddies, and not the dread "Hacks" . . . <g>
It's rarely the digging, a combination of tools, like an e-tool, hoe (cut-off handle), a real short sharpshooter, will make the excavation. It's the hauling the spoils away that gets to be a real pain. (Small, plastic, "mason's tub" from the big box on a creeper attached to a rope can be very handy if the c/s floor is relatively flat.)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Er...uh....
Why do you have to dig? Can't the footing be formed up at ground level?
That is a good question, since this is an interior footing I was hoping that this footing would not have to be 2'-0" deep as required for the new exterior wall footing that will be placed. I will ask the building inspector.
Robert
I would sure think that you could get by with less depth on an interior location, if frost heave is a problem there you really have a problem. Your question to the inspector is the correct way to get this answered. I would open up that floor rather than crawling on my belly like a reptile. If not a good old Army entrenching tool would be a weapon to consider.
Around here they would probably let you get by with a couple of 12x16x4 cap blocks and an adjustable short jack post on a retrofit. You did not say what kind of a load factor you are transmitting.
Thanks for the replies, I think I am going to cut the floor, it will also make it easier for the inspector to look at. This footing is supporting one end of a double 14" X 14'-0" LVL header. Opening up a wall between kitchen and den. Will support 2nd floor and roof loads. This beam is also carrying an 8'-0" LVL perpendicular around the midspan, to open outside wall to new addition. I will post a picture when I get to that point.
Robert
If this works, here's the thread on my footing job, with some pictures:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=1660.1
-- J.S.
I'd vote for pulling up some flooring to create access. Maybe even remove a floor joist or 2 if that's possible. Otherwise you're gonna need a shovel like this:http://ruralking.com/rko/cart.cgi?PRODUCT=005072509&SPD=0kM67602571Fxxk
I made wine out of raisins so I wouldn't have to wait for it to age.
I did that a couple years ago. Mine's 2'x5', to support a big new bathtub on the second floor. Definitely worth your while to open up the floor, both for digging and placing the concrete.
-- J.S.
1. Be grateful you are not up north here where bottom of footings are 42" min.
2. Be aware that the crawlspace may in fact be fill, or at least not compacted, certainly the top foot or so. If you are allowed to place on the subgrade or shallow, make the pad a little bigger and throw (ok, place) some #5 bars in the lower 1/3 of the footer.
3. I have lumps on my head from crawling in my own 2' crawlspace to get to the middle to do various things - it's really a drag if you forget anything, too. Definitely cut the hole.
Another option is a dirt sucker. Expensive, but really quick.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Cutting the floor is probably the best way to go, but if you can't for some reason, here is how I have done it.
Take an SDS-Max rotary hammer or a chipping hammer with a clay spade on it under the house with you. It makes the digging go really fast. That and a trowel or a shovel with the handle cut off and you're done in no time.
If the dirt needs to go out, build a little sled out of scrap plywood and tie a rope to it. Leave your helper outside the foundation, he can pull the dirt out, you can pull the block in.
Easy.
A king can stand people fighting but he can't last long if people start
thinking. -Will Rogers, humorist (1879-1935)
I have both SDS plus and SDS Max, and ended up using the little one to dig my footing. The big one just wouldn't fit in the crawl space. Measure before you buy.... ;-)
I also built a sort of cart with four 8" wheels and room for three 5 gal buckets in line, for another crawl space digging project. The axles go between the buckets, which gives me some leverage to make course corrections. This works because the dry adobe here is hard, probably several hundred PSI.
-- J.S.
Edited 2/2/2006 2:57 pm ET by JohnSprung