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new lateral water line through studs

brucet9 | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 6, 2010 04:00am

I need to run a new branch water line for a refrigerator. Existing 1/8″ copper tubing takes off with a piercing clamp from a 3/4″ pipe in the ceiling above a cabinet, to an in-line filter in the back of the cabinet, then runs laterally through an adjoining cabinet containing the built-in oven to the refrigerator space, then down the wall to the fridge. HO is having new cabinets installed and does not want tubing running through the cabinets. I am considering cutting out a short section of the 3/4″ copper line in the ceiling at the point where it is pierced and installing a reducing tee over the wall top plate. From there I would run 1/2″ copper through the top plate of the wall down to about 12″ above the floor and then laterally through 3 or 4 stud bays to a recessed box behind the fridge. Can I get 1/2″ copper through the studs or do I need to use soft copper tubing? The ceiling joists run perpendicular the wall. If I wanted to run the lateral through the joists, would that be easier than through the walls? Thanks

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Replies

  1. Scott | Feb 06, 2010 04:22pm | #1

    PEX.

  2. IdahoDon | Feb 06, 2010 07:39pm | #2

    PEX

  3. DanH | Feb 06, 2010 10:44pm | #3

    Yeah, PEX. Much easier to fish.

  4. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Feb 07, 2010 01:35am | #4

    Why not run a 1/4" copper line through the bottom and back of the cabinets instead of through them?

    1. brucet9 | Feb 07, 2010 01:06pm | #5

      Do you mean I should bring 1/4" down through the ceiling and surface mount it on the wall then let the cabinet guy notch around it?

      I would prefer burying the pipes in the wall with an angle stop in a recessed box.

      1. User avater
        xxPaulCPxx | Feb 07, 2010 05:55pm | #7

        Actually, I would cut and add a T under the sink and add a new valve there for the fridge, then surface mount about 2" above the floor around the wall until you get to near the fridge, then sink it into the wall up to where you want to put the recessed box.

        You would be able to cut the water off in two spots now if disaster struck.

        BTW, if you decide on PEX, you can get it at Home Depot and Lowes now. Sharkbite fittings don't require a crimper... just remember to push every fitting in as far as you can go!

        1. brucet9 | Feb 08, 2010 03:00am | #10

          Thanks, Paul, but the sink is on the opposite wall from the fridge, making it a 27-foot run and likely to trip people where it passes 2" off the floor through the doorways on the adjacent walls of the kitchen. :)

          the ceiling pipe is way closer and drywall cuts would all be behind cabinets, so repairs wouldn't have to be re-textured as would be the case going above the doorways.

    2. brucet9 | Feb 07, 2010 01:09pm | #6

      OK, two votes now for PEX

      I,m in Huntington Beach. Where can I get PEX around here, Ferguson?

      Are there reliable PEX fittings that don't require purchasing an expensive crimper?

      1. Scott | Feb 07, 2010 08:36pm | #9

        As others have said, Sharkbites work. Or you can rent a crimper, which is what I'd probably do, especially if you can charge it to the job.

        If you do a lot of this sort of work you might find a used crimper at a reasonable price.

  5. rdesigns | Feb 07, 2010 06:13pm | #8

    Pex is your best choice for this, and Sharkbite fittings will ease the installation, as already suggested.

    To be able to shut off the supply, there are boxes for ice-maker lines, similar to the boxes for washing machine supply valves. You mount it low behind the fridge, and it has its own shutoff valve. I think the Sioux Chief makes them, as well as others.

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