Replies

1. 
   mark_cadioli | Jan 15, 2001 10:06am | #1

   *
   Chris,

   If the mortar is in good condition you should not have too much trouble ( some of these early buildings used a high to all Lime mortar which crumbles after a while)

   I would use an angle iron lintel, ( for a 3' opening you should get awy with a 3"x3".)

   To cut the opening, you can do it yourself with a Quickcut, however they are damn dangerous and I leave it to the experts. give your local concrete cutters a call. I'm sure they will be able to accomodate you.

   Is this an external wall? If so, your main problem is not going to be the lintels, but waterproofing.

   Assuming it is an external wall, here is how I would tackle it.

   Plot the two openings. Try and allow the cuts to run on the perps. Don't forget to allow for the jam and door in your opening size.

   Get your concrete saw man to make the cuts. ( vertical and horizontal)

   Break through the area. ( Don't worry about supporting the overhead area. Even if some bricks fall out it is such a small opening the wall is self supporting)

   On both the inside wall and the external wall, open it up higher than you need to, ( say 3 courses).
   Cut the mortar joint either side of the external opening width, to take the lintel. Fit the external wall lintel from the inside .

   Do the same for the inside wall.

   What you have now is an opening with two lintels in position, but open for about three courses above the lintels.

   Now relay the first two courses on the internal wall ( directly on the lintel). Prior to closing off the last course ( still on the internal wall) take a wide piece of dampcourse and lay it out on your final course. Close off the wall.

   You now have a bricked up opening on the inside with lintel in place and a dampcourse into the cavity to the outside courses.

   Now lay your first course on the external lintel. Bring the dampcourse down onto the top of the first course and complete the laying.

   AT THIS DAMPCOURSE LINE ENSURE YOU LEAVE WEEPHOLES TO ALLOW ANY WATER COMING DOWN THE CAVITY TO EXIT.

   Couple of other things....the dampcourse should run wider than the opening.

   Also, when you make your vetical cuts...you will be left with sawn brick. To tidy up..you may want to remove and rekey in new bricks. ( if you are carefull you will be able to reuse the bricks from the demolition)

   Be wary of electrical / gas and plumbing where you are cutting through.

   Sorry it is such a long explanation but that's the best I can do.

   Kind regards

   mark

1. 
   Chris_L2 | Jan 19, 2001 04:46am | #2

   *Thanks for all the info Mark. Your point about contracting out the cutting is a good idea- never used one of those gas powerd units- especially on vertical cuts!Chris

1. 
   Tommy_B. | Jan 19, 2001 05:01am | #3

   *What mark said.Here is a twenty foot opening we cut into a double brick wall yesterday.

1. 
   mark_cadioli | Jan 26, 2001 12:16pm | #4

   *Tommy...can't seem to open that...is it a jpeg?

2. 
   Chris_L2 | Jan 26, 2001 12:16pm | #5

   *
   I need to put a 36" doorway in a double brick wall. The building is a multi-unit 3 story, built approx in 1920.

   1. Do I need to support the wall after I take out a row of bricks and before installing the lintel. Since its a double brick wall (approx 2" seperates the two walls) Will the one wall support the structure while I am installing the lintel on the other wall?

   2. What sort of lintel should I use? Angle iron, steel I beam? Any sources for info?

   3. Once the lintels are in and I'm ready to cut the opening, what is the best tool to cut the brick?

   Thanks,

   Chris