We had our roof replaced on Friday, we live in R.I. so the temp was in the high 80s. I’m having an issue with how some things look. There is a large space At the top and bottom of the valley I would say at least an inch at the top. Also, the shingles don’t lay flat in some areas. It’s very noticeable near the edge of the roof, you can actually push down on some areas, it almost seems like they’re buckled. They’re saying the shingles will settle which I would understand if the shingles had been installed in cooler weather. In regard to the valley, they said it was expected because the shingles are thick. We used Timberline HDZ architectural shingles. The old roof was stripped, StormGuard 36″ Film-Surfaced Peel and Stock roof leak barrier and GAF Felt Buster synthetic adhesive felt were used.
The salesman came on Saturday and sent pictures to his boss. I want a “roof” guy, not just a salesman to look at this. What should I say to him about this? I’ve attached 2 pics and a short video. What I’d like to know is, this all normal or should I make a fuss about it? Thanks,Deb – homeowner
Replies
There is no way I would accept that poor workmanship.
Those raised shingles and air gaps in the valley are the result of not allowing the shingles to lay in properly before being nailed down. Looks like they were just in a hurry because it would not have taken long for the shingles to lay in properly if the temp was 80+ degrees.
You definitely need to call for a do-over on this.
Hi Deb, if you have pictures during the installation process please review those. GAF Feltbuster and most other synthetic underlayments require plastic cap nails or plastic cap staples and at specific intervals. As a last resort ask them what they used to fasten the underlayment or maybe go up in the attic and look as the fasteners might be readily visible if they used cap nails. Step 5 of Feltbuster installation instructions as well as Section (1)(a) of the GAF limited warranty should be reviewed. These documents are available on the GAF website. Incorrect underlayment installation of my roof job last week resulted in starting over (stripped and installed correctly with all new materials) at the contractors expense. This could help if the contractor discounts your concerns.
Unfortunately I did not take any pictures during install. The product used was
peel and stick. Not sure that still needs fastener. Trying to find type.
The fastening schedule of the underlayment is for wind resistance when the underlayment is exposed. It has no impact on the shingles. Unless the exposed underlayment was blowing off or leaking, your contractor wasted time and money for nothing.
StormGuard® Film-Surfaced Leak Barrier was used, peel and stick, no fasteners required.
If you haven't heard back from the roofing company owner, schedule an on-site meeting and request an action plan. If you have a reputable roofer, they will fix the problems that you have photographed and video-taped. I'm hoping that this was an experienced, and reputable installer, and that proper attention has been given to the valleys and flashing, which are where the leaks occur when a new roof has issues.
In looking at the video, I'm wondering why the shingles are not laying flat on the deck... Some thoughts and questions that crossed my mind are:
Were the vertical edges of the shingles jammed together (unlikely with heavy duty shingles as you had installed)? Was there high moisture content in the roof deck that buckled the shingles as the decking dried, or, similarly, was new high moisture content roof decking installed at the eaves? Was the required 4-nail pattern used to attach the shingles and would GAF's 6-nail "enhanced" pattern be better for holding down the first course? Was the roof deck "punky" so the nails are not holding? What was used as the starter strip at the eaves (standard starter strip or upside down top strips of shingles)?
In the valleys, your low angle photos make it difficult to interpret the problems and any quality issues. The cut edges of the shingles that overlap the shingles on the main roof do appear to be somewhat ragged, so I would wonder how they were cut (maybe with a hook knife which doesn't work too well on thick HDZ shingles)? The gap at the top of the first picture and the gap at the eaves in the second picture certainly need some attention.
When you do a full lace at the bottom of a valley with architectural shingles there is always some bridging do to the stiffness of laminated shingles. It looks like a correct install. Overall, it’s not the cleanest roof job I’ve seen but it doesn’t look improperly installed. Crooked close-cut valleys don’t leak because they are crooked. Was this a low bid situation?
I can't tell from the pics if the valleys are laced or over lain. Proper overlaid is best but either can work. Archy shingles always look a little funky from a low angle. It would take some real careful effort to make pics that accurately depict the job, I don't agree that you have a poor job but it's not apparent you have a good one either. Great, no way though.
As for getting a free do over I'd say haha, wouldn't happen in the world I'm in with out lawyerin'. As long as you have stick down underlayment every where you can rest pretty easy I think. It's also a good sign that the roofers may have respected the job enough to use the self stick.
If your job was down here in the scorching south I'd give some concern to the possibility that the shingles were placed too tight to each other but that might not be possible in your climate if it was done in seasonal summer temps. Having said that I've never personally sure enough seen shingles pucker up from being jammed too tight but no doubt it is a possibility.