Hi all-
I want to replace my nasty old windows. I am going with a new window rather than replacement units because we are changing the siding as well.
My house was built in 1840. I am gutting the inside room by room as I can afford it. The walls are balloon framed and have no headers, jacks or cripples.
I would like to open up the wall and reframe for the new windows–the new windows are slightly shorter (7″).
I called the city inspector and he told me to hire a contractor (not an option)–not helpful at all. I have gutted and renovated 3 houses and built a 3 car garage. These structures has conventional framing though. I’m not a pro, but I know the basics just fine.
Can anyone point me in the right direction. How do I size headers… I had a few guys tell me I don’t need headers, but that sounds strange. I understand not having headers on the gable ends, but still…
I would like to frame the in so I can use the nailer flange and foam the units in. The walls will be insulated with closed cell foam. Also, I want to avoid excessive framing so I can properly insulate.
Any information would be greatly appreciated. Links to websites, articles, sketch, advice…all works for me. I can’t find anything anywhere…our local building center wasn’t completely sure either.
Thanks again in advance.
Replies
The height of the new windows is not important -- it's the width that you need to be concerned with. Are you new windows going to be wider than your old ones? If not, you probably don't need new headers, provided the old ones were/are good. (And, since your house is still standing 150 yrs. later, I'd guess they are.)
If your new windows are going to be wider than the old ones, and you need to cut studs, you may need to do some re-framing. On balloon framed structures, you often need to build new "insert" wall sections to hold up what's above -- kind of a hybrid between platform framing and balloon. If you need to go that way, you might want to have an architect or engineer put something together for you.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks for the advice.The width of the rough openings is larger than the window rough opening specs by about 2.5". It is the height that has no room to spare. On the gable ends the studs run directly into the window--some windows are held in with 2 nails.One the front and back of the house the windows appear to be much bulkier. Almost a full 2" frame on the window. No headers at all and the studs run directly into the heavy window frames. Is it possible that the window was built heavier to hold the load?The gable ends are slapped together 3-4 framing members connected to reach the roof. The front and back have one piece members from basement to eave.I can go with a slightly smaller window, but there is nothing to nail to except the wide board sheathing. Is that o.k.?I would prefer to go a little larger, but if that is not a good idea I would just do what was easy.Would pictures help?I think the house is balloon framed and I checked the deed. The house was built in 1846. I better take pictures and get those posted.
Edited 5/19/2008 5:11 pm ET by Stillwtr
Not unusal for a ballon frame to not have headers.
1840 is a little early for a balloon frame. Are you sure it's not a timber frame? That may explain the lack of headers.
Steve
is the room down to the studs now ?? if so post a few pics of the existing framing
Just a reminder that a significant change in window height may not look right when it's done. There are lots of historic houses out there that wind up looking like bad renos because the proportions are off. Just something to consider while you're working out what to do.
Pete
Edited 5/20/2008 12:08 am ET by PeteBradley
Pete-
We were very careful with proportions. The difference in width is about 2".Thanks for bringing that up though.
IMHO. If there weren't headers there before, you don't need them now. The older window frames are not likely supporting the weight from above. Balloon framing has a ledger board let into the studs and the joists rest on the ledger. This goes all the way around the house. The ledger is the header. If you change the width of the window, local codes here in NY say that you need to add a header. If you add the header, you will need the jack studs to fall on the joists for support. As for nailing, just add nailers.
"It is what it is."
It's a timber frame and a perfect application for replacement windows like Marvin's tilt-pak. The key to getting it to look right is coming as close to the original DLO (daylight opening) muntin sizes and sash sizes. Tearing out more is usually a bad idea.
Jeff
here are some pictures...hope they help.
the pictures get rotated when I upload them...I hope they make sense to you all.
Another note...we are going with a 2 over 2 Marvin double hung. I know many of you want me to do tilt packs, but the draft around these windows is unreal. My heat bill is $500 per month and the house is kept to 62.
We have a new furnace and will get closed cell foam shot in the walls when the windows are done.
I like the idea of having framed openings with new construction windows. Just my preference is all. I don't mind the added labor...
thank you all for your help.
Those pictures are dark and confusing, can you back up and give a shot of the total wall?
Kind of dark to see, but the picture labeled top gable looks like there is either a timber frame beam or a let-in ledger above the window. What is there?I see that the walls are back-plastered. I've only seen that in Minnesota. Where are you located?Steve
it looks like a timber, but it is a 1x that held the lathe up on the ceiling. A nailer.Good call...I'm in Stillwater, MN. Northeast of St Paul.Was this type of construction typical? The house is still standing, but there is so much stuff that has gone wrong. Everything is in need of repair.I am replacing floor joist with floor trusses because the plumbers did their thing over the years. It's a miracle the second floor is still up there.I want to do what is right for this old house. It has been here for a long, long time and I plan to be here for at least 25-30 years.Edited 5/20/2008 1:15 pm ET by Stillwtr
Edited 5/20/2008 3:36 pm ET by Stillwtr