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Discussion Forum

Newbie “loner”

Jed42 | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 24, 2008 12:50pm

Hello all.  I am (1) Introducing myself as a “newbie” here, and (2) Have a question:

My “helper” was recently taken from me (thank goodness) and I am working alone (finish carpenter).  I am happier working alone, and usualy only use helpers for 2 more hands, cleaning up and carying my tools to my van.  At least the ones who act like four year olds and don’t want to learn.  Anyway, my question or request is:  Does anyone have any tips/tricks for doing 2 person things alone?  I have figured out a good way to do crown alone and some other things, but was wondering if anyone had any tricks they use….

Thanks alot for any suggestions..

Jed 

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Replies

  1. Shep | Oct 24, 2008 01:08am | #1

    I work alone, and at 54 Y.O. its sometimes tough. I'm basically a finish carpenter, too, and one thing I've found to be essential are clamps, and plenty of them. Its like having an extra pair of hands, but without all the whining.

    In my van at all times- 4 of the quick-grip style, several of the large spring clamps, and two small bar clamps. I also have a lot more clamps at home that I'll grab as needed.

    It would be nice to have someone around to put tools away at the end of the day, but I've learned to live with some handicaps. <G>

     

    Oh yeah-

     and by the way, welcome to BT. This is a tremendeous place to learn, and share.



    Edited 10/23/2008 6:10 pm ET by Shep

    1. ANDYSZ2 | Oct 24, 2008 01:34am | #3

      On my current job the trim  carpenter's wife is the helper, and he and I were having a conversation and when we finished he went to putup his tools and she had already done it.I thought that was way cool.

      Suggestions

      A set of helping hand extendable poles

      A hand cart and dolly

      A ladder caddy

      A lightweight folding scaffold

      A laser measuring device

      A portable bench/vise (I am waiting to see the sawhorse vice combo sold on infomercials in person)

      The book Working Alone by John Carroll

      A pair of little Giant ladders for quick scaffolding

      C clamps make great handles for carrying

      Jacks and bottle jacks for lifting and spreading

      Heavy and light duty crank type strapping

      PS LETS keep this going as It always helps for loners to give hints to other loners as we don't get to see other peoples tricks.

      ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

      REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

       

      1. Shep | Oct 24, 2008 02:06am | #5

        Carroll's book has a lot of good tips.

      2. User avater
        Matt | Nov 02, 2008 11:19pm | #49

        John Carroll is a participant here at BT.  I guess he won't mind me saying it... his screen name is Mudslinger or similar.  He is very knowledgable on masonary related topics among other things...

    2. Jed42 | Oct 24, 2008 02:50am | #7

      'Ol Norm says "You can never - ever - have enough clamps!"

  2. shtrum | Oct 24, 2008 01:30am | #2

    Not a tradesperson, but i would second clamps as well.  Everything i do is solo, and several of them are essential. 

    A couple other things i've found to be useful:  a couple metal chairs found in the garbage a number of years ago, with the backs sawn off, for quick, light supports.  Also a 25-pound weight from the (alas) weight set of my youth, which makes a great hold-down for large sheets of wood.

     

  3. User avater
    FatRoman | Oct 24, 2008 01:41am | #4

    Welcome to BT!

    You might try Working Alone, that's gotten some great reviews from members here. http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/working-alone-john-carroll-070418.html

    For me, and I'm just me working on my own house, I've found the quick clamps very useful as an extra set of hands. Just picked up a laser distance meter, which seems pretty terrific in how it's going to help.

    A number of people here have good things to say about the 3rd Hands from Fastcap, too, for holding crown, cabinets, drywall, etc.

    'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

    View Image

    1. Jed42 | Oct 24, 2008 02:55am | #8

      Thanks a ton for the link to the book.  I didn't know it existed.  I'm ordering it now...thanks all for the great suggestions so far.  I agree with keeping this going.  I'll add to it as I inevitably learn as I go!

      1. silver77 | Oct 25, 2008 05:50am | #9

        Good threadI've worked alone for years as a finish carpenter...lots of good ideas so I had to come up with something a bit offbeat...How about a tiny awl...good for the end of a chalk line;drive in a corner to get a tight measurement or for layout;in a pinch strategically placed to hold up a long piece of pg casing or crown; also good for marking dead nuts baluster end grain for drilling in baluster screws and marking baluster centres on landing tread....this is starting to sound like a late night infomercial and............ if you order right now we'll send you 2, 2 super sharp tiny awls for only...LOLsilver

  4. frenchy | Oct 24, 2008 02:31am | #6

    second John Carroll's book and a little creativety and forethought..

      For example I've found instead of butting trim I back bevel it at a 45% angle  that way it's easy to shove underneath the previous piece and just keep on running long lengths..

    1. DaveRicheson | Nov 03, 2008 02:06pm | #69

      22 1/2 degree makes a better splice joint in most trim.  You are less  likely to have the trim split when nailing it over top of an 1 1/2" break stud.

  5. Waters | Oct 25, 2008 05:57am | #10

    I also work alone a lot.

    There are a lot of things I do that I might not consider tips.  What kind of work, specifically are you doing?  Throw me a couple examples and maybe I or others could tell you if we know anything.

    There's a book on working alone by John Caroll.

    As far as a few tips to throw out?  Well...

    Clamps, Man, Clamps.

     

    (Pretty much a useless response now that I read the others you've gotten!  Duh.)

    Still--any examples of your work?



    Edited 10/24/2008 11:00 pm by Waters

    1. silver77 | Oct 25, 2008 06:17am | #11

      Not a loners tip-but still one of favs...Make a saw board for your chop saw...3/4" x 2" x 8' mdf fence and 1/4 x 12" white board/glue-airnail together/screw to back of saw...make yer cuts...90/45's Now you have backing behind and under so tearout is reduced. You can also "see" yer cut now...put your mark on the line...it works great for cutting balusters because it always remembers your cuts.Biggest bonus-when cutting casing, first cut your 45's and then line up the short point of the 45 with the end of the saw board and measure off 81" or whatever-
      put that mark on the sawcut-cuts dead nuts the first time...kapeesh?cheers,silver

    2. Shep | Oct 25, 2008 06:21am | #12

      You had good intentions. <G>

    3. Jed42 | Nov 02, 2008 05:08pm | #44

      I think I passed this post long ago and missed it or I'd have responded a lot sooner.  Anyway, I am a (the) finish carpenter for a small remodeling co.  I hang all the cabinets, base, casing, biult-in's, railings etc.  The thing I run into a lot and just did this week is not so much needing 2 more hands, but 2 more eyes....ex:

      Cabinets are hung, ceiling is not perfect (are any?).  Crown to ceiling installation is ok to do up to about 3-4 feet long, then I either need eyes to see the miter or really long arms to mark / see if cut is good.  Not a big deal if the crown is unfinished, but can't (won't) sand finished crown to make it good, and sometimes have to adjust miters to fit ceiling.  I use the putty stick in the T.U. Kit for minor things, but refuse to be a hack about cuts and fill the rest with the crayon - it's not how I work and seems like most here would agree with that.  I need a camera on a stick!

      The posts in this thread have helped me quite a bit.  I have and use lots of clamps.  I am looking for those spring clamps that hold miters together.  They look kinda like scissors or something...basically 2 bent wires with a strong clamp in between??  I am assuming I can get those at rockler or woodcraft or something?

      I also have several herniated/bulging discs in my upper/middle/lower back.  This is a challenge for lifting things, but I am dealing with that pretty well, and my buddy (co. owner) will send one of the monkeys (laborers-his son and nephew) over for a few hours when I need it.  He is very attune to my back issues and doesn't allow me to lift anything at all. 

      Thank you and everyone for all the great tips in this thread so far.  Now if we can just find a place that sold new spine's...No Coffee No Workee!

      1. rez | Nov 02, 2008 11:39pm | #50

        I am looking for those spring clamps that hold miters together.  They look kinda like scissors or something...basically 2 bent wires with a strong clamp in between??  I am assuming I can get those at rockler or woodcraft or something?

        Anyone have a link for those clamps to give Jed42? Escapes me at the time.

        Edited 11/2/2008 3:40 pm ET by rez

        1. User avater
          basswood | Nov 03, 2008 12:07am | #51

          http://www.collinstool.com/base.php?page=collins_miter_clamps.htm

          1. rez | Nov 03, 2008 12:16am | #52

            That was it. Collins. Why didn't I remember that?

             how old am I again, I forget?Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]

          2. mrfixitusa | Nov 03, 2008 12:27am | #53

            I wish I had had them a couple of weeks agoI removed the trim around a sliding patio doorthen I removed the old patio door and replaced it with a new set of french doors.Everything turned out beautifullyBut then I was putting on the finishing touches and the last thing I did was install the trim around the doorI test fitted the mitre joints and they were perfectBUT something happened when I nailed the pieces into place with my air nail gun and THE GAP OPENED UP BETWEEN THE MITRE JOINTSI could have kicked myself and wished I had used some of those clamps.MAYBE I COULD HAVE JUST USED THEM TO HOLD THE JOINT TOGETHER WHILE NAILED EVERYTHINGDo you think that would work?

          3. rez | Nov 03, 2008 12:37am | #54

            Probably.

             

            but you know Murphy...Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]

          4. mrfixitusa | Nov 03, 2008 12:43am | #55

            lol...I should have glued the miter joints together with those clamps AND THEN nailed the trim back on the dooroh well, live and learn I guess

          5. brucet9 | Nov 03, 2008 11:05am | #67

            "I test fitted the mitre joints and they were perfectBUT something happened when I nailed the pieces into place with my air nail gun and THE GAP OPENED UP BETWEEN THE MITRE JOINTS"What probably happened is that the drywall was a little proud of the jamb. When you nailed the casing to the jamb it canted a little, changing the necessary angle from 45° to something less (usually about 44.5°), so the outer part of the joint opens up. If the jamb is proud of the drywall the inner part of the joint opens.If you nail up the head casing first, then you can test the side casing angles using a piece of scrap until you get the correct angle, then cut and nail the side casings on.If the jamb is proud, you can pre-nail the assembly, shoot it up on the inner edge to the jamb and then shim the outer edges of the corners before shooting the outer edges; then caulk the gap of course.BruceT

          6. mrfixitusa | Nov 03, 2008 01:49pm | #68

            ExcellentThanks I appreciate it

          7. brucet9 | Nov 03, 2008 11:17pm | #72

            You're welcome. Now reverse what I said. The the miter joint touches on the proud side and opens up on the side that is low.The solution is still the same though. BruceT

          8. mrfixitusa | Nov 03, 2008 11:44pm | #73

            Thanks again for your infoI'm 51 years old and we weren't taught things like you've described when I was learning.Also, we did not have the clamps to use on the mitre jointsWe did not glue the mitre joint togetherNo one taught us to do things like that.I guess things have come a long way since I went to carpentry vo-tech school in 1975 and when I worked as a carpenter in the 1970's and 1980'sAgree?

          9. Shep | Nov 04, 2008 01:59am | #75

            I started work in 1975, for my grandfather and dad. I never went to vo-tech. I went to the school of " hey, dummy- THIS is how you should do it."

            We did glue miters, and cross nail them, usually with 4D finish nails.

            And yeah, things have come a long way. Back then, you could carry all your tools in a homemade tool tote. Now, I'm not sure a semi trailer would be big enough.

          10. mrfixitusa | Nov 04, 2008 02:21pm | #76

            we did not have nail guns when I went to the vo-tech in 1975also, we did not have power mitre sawsWe had something like thishttp://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-800-Contractor-Grade-Clamping/dp/B00005QVQW/ref=dp_cp_ob_hi_title_1This is the tool we used to make a coping joint with baseboard:http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/coping-saw-1.jpg

          11. DaveRicheson | Nov 04, 2008 02:49pm | #77

            http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-20-800-Contractor-Grade-Clamping/dp/B00005QVQW/ref=dp_cp_ob_hi_title_1

            That is a high tech. version. The 1975 model used a true backsaw, had a wood table, and the clamp was your off hand  :)

            And I was 28 years old, with  two years experience as a carpenter.

            I went to the school of "oops and ah poop", like Shep :)

          12. Shep | Nov 05, 2008 12:51am | #78

            W didn't get our first nail guns until the early 80s. My dad wan't big on some of those new-fangled gadgets. <G>

            I've got an old, heavy, manual, iron miter box in my basement, gathering dust. I also have a Lion miter trimmer that hasn't been used in years. We used to do almost all our trim with just that.

            I still use a coping saw on a regular basis. I have 2 in my van.

          13. rez | Nov 05, 2008 06:32pm | #80

            Wish I had a pic of my old Sears Motorized Miter Saw.

            Stationary slider and the table moves to give you the angles.

            Sorry, no depth of cut or compound angles available here. Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]

          14. mrfixitusa | Nov 05, 2008 06:42pm | #81

            I'd like to see one of those...lol

  6. gordsco | Oct 25, 2008 06:38am | #13

    Unfortunately, working alone will impair your ability to succeed. When you stop working, the job stops, when you leave to estimate or repair other work, the job stops.

    Working on your own will enable you to complete a few houses per year. Having a decent helper or helpers will allow you to concentrate on the higher end aspects of the finish trade and allow your helpers to complete the simple, but time consuming tasks of casing and baseboard.

    In business, you do not have to work yourself, but you are lost if you cannot get others to work for you.

     

     

    1. Jer | Oct 25, 2008 02:31pm | #15

      "Unfortunately, working alone will impair your ability to succeed"Hmmmm....very subjective that.I work alone and I do fine. Succeed? Money money money? Yeah....maybe, if you do it right. But how many contractors have I run into that have maybe 5 hired people, or even just one or two, and they tell me that if you add all the hours up that they really put in, they end up making the same or even less than I (the lone wolf), do? Many.
      Yeah, I know....they're not doing it right, and the only way you can get ahead is to have others do the work. This is true.I have worked alone for most of the thirty years I've been in the trades and am very happy. Through the thin times (now?!) I have worried about no one except me & my family.You should see some of the pictures of Sheps work. He's a loner, but there's none better.I will say that having a good helper is definitely a plus, but man are they hard to find. I have tried, & lot of kids just aren't interested. They want to pick up their hammers at 7:30 and drop them in place at 4:00... caring bupkis about the work and more about all the text messaging they do. It was like that when I worked in the union too. It would be nice to have someone carry my tools & do my setups & breakdowns, but in some ways, that keeps me focused & appreciative.Success is very subjective and has a lot more to with things other than money & saving time.

      1. gordsco | Oct 25, 2008 03:30pm | #18

        You're right, there is more to life than money, money.

        I was in a similar boat, subbing hi quality finish work. I picked up a couple of small builders besides my mainstay custom builder. I had steady work but sometimes everything came on line at once.

        I had an employee who continually ticked me off, but was competent enough to finish basic homes on his own.

        I decided to get rid of this thorn in my side and attempted to hire his replacement. I tried out 28 guys. In the end, I came away with a new appreciation for the guy I already had. I began to treat him better and praised him when warranted. The situation improved.  

        1. Shep | Oct 25, 2008 06:58pm | #27

          Like Jer said, I work alone probably 98% of the time. I had employees at one point, but didn't like being a supervisor.

          So as they left, and things slowed, I didn't replace any of them. I found out that I don't make any less money, and I have less headaches, than before. I had a hard time balancing being the boss and wearing the toolbelt.

          I'm perfectly happy being a one-man business. I realize that when I retire, that my business will die. And I'm OK with that.

          Other guys may have different ambitions. And that's OK too.

          I usually have several months work backlog, and virtually all of my business is from repeat customers and referrals who trust me enough that I haven't done a competive bid in years.

      2. Shep | Oct 25, 2008 06:49pm | #26

        Thanks, Jer. I appreciate the complement.

         

  7. fingers | Oct 25, 2008 07:00am | #14

    Ditto John Carroll's book. Also, have all the proper stands for your tools ie. convenient outfeed supports for the tablesaw and nice long side extensions for the chop saw because no one is gonna help support the other end of that board so you've got to rely on mechanical solutions.

  8. Hazlett | Oct 25, 2008 02:45pm | #16

    Jed------absolutely get john carrols book "Working Solo"

    As one of the other posters noted--there can be significant monetary advantages to working with others-------but i prefer solo

    solo---is also potentially more productive and profitable than a lot of folks would think.

    Tuesday I bought some 8" cedar claps---took 'em home and pre-primed them

    Weds. i went out to the job site----tore old siding off a gable and window well detail and installed a .060 Epdm pan in the window well(5'x8') and dried in the wall.cleaned up all the debris

    Thursday I hung the new cedar claps.---at the same time a small crew was vinyl siding a house across the street--one of the guys on that crew worked for me one day earlier this year. At about 11:00 AM I here their boss yelling " Dammit, that guy across the street has hung more siding ALONE than the THREE of us have put up this morning.

    friday i put 2 coats of paint on the claps.
    very nice--and profitable job---and I see no way that even a single helper would have sped things up to the point where they would have earned their keep.
    working solo will allow you to cherry pick your projects and dramatically reduce the estimates and paper work you have to do just to brake even on"helpers"

    Best wishes,
    stephen

    1. mrfixitusa | Oct 25, 2008 03:18pm | #17

      I listened to a radio talk show 20 years (financial advice) ago and I remember a guy calling and talking about his one man business and what he could do to improve and make more moneyThe host said you would never make it "doing everything yourself" and "one guy can't possibly do everything"The host said you need employees and each employee is "putting money in your pocket"He said "you are making a mistake if you own a business and you are spending time doing menial tasks such as unskilled labor types of activities, when the time would be better spent doing other more productive types of thingsThe host said "if you're sick and miss a day of work - you have no income coming in"While if you have employees, you DO have money coming in.The caller said he had had difficulty finding people who could work on their own and without him standing over them.It does make you stand back and think about it.In construction, I've always thought a skilled tradesman should be able to pay a helper to do the "demo" and then he could come in and do the skilled work.

      1. Hazlett | Oct 25, 2008 03:32pm | #19

        I think those are valid points-----up to a point.
        I don't have a lot of time to go into this right now-----gonna go give an estimate for a project to be done next spring----and then we are heading out to a highschool cross country Regional meetbut basically--what do you do with the helper----when there IS no demo for him to do that day???
        earlier this year when I was running 6 men---the laboreres worked non-stop humping shingles and cleaning up--economies of scale and all that---
        but after July2--I went down to one helper( quite happily mind you--I view myself as semi retired now)----most of the helpers time was spent---- watching me work---and keeping me entertained with chit-chat----he saved me about 1 hour a day of heavy lifting---and that's about it
        gotta run,
        stephen

        1. Jed42 | Nov 03, 2008 06:33am | #66

          Found this in another thread here...

          http://www.amazon.com/Rockwell-RK9000-Jawhorse/dp/B0018MRUN4

          Should be helpful to the loners...No Coffee No Workee!

  9. Jer | Oct 25, 2008 03:53pm | #20

    I work alone, mostly as a finish carp (as metioned above), and I have found a few things.

    Clamps. I like the Jorgenson light duty of all sizes. I have about 50. The spring clamps are good too and C clamps for the heavy torque & to carry things.

    A fold away 4' or 5' scaffold. You can roll it from room to room, put your tools etc on it, stand on it, & work off it.

    Make yourself a set of safe footstools that stack. Maybe 18" high. A JC bucket is not that safe to stand on & work off

    Glue gun to tack things into place while the PL dries.

    Field tools ...portability & lightweight on everything. Folding work surfaces are nice.

    Miter saws..big,(10 or 12" slider), mid (12 or 10" compound non-slider), and small (71/2" compound...it's sweet!), for shoe mld or small casing on that third floor.
    I do 90% of my trim with a non-slider 12". It's like my right arm.

    Adjustable dead men rollers.

    Laser measuring device... Get a good one, I recommend the Leica.

    Extra Hands support poles.

    Ledger boards to hold wall hangings.

    Finish nails of all sizes as temp supports for heavier whathaveyou. Carry them in your caddy or pouch.

    Learn to make and use jigs for all your work and to do your work in a production-style, not one piece at a time. For instance, precut all your miters & copes at once to rough size, then measure and do your straight cuts. On smaller moldings, like doorstop, I take all my pre-cuts to the work and do the final straight cut with a speed square and a very sharp Japanese saw. Do everything you can in one station, even with the settings of the saws. Do things in stacks, & if there are multiples, set up saw-stops. Save yourself the time & effort of back & forth trips.

    Learn to draw witness marks wherever possible.

    Epoxy a piece of formica sample onto the face of your tape and use it as a memory board to write measurements on. A little spit & rub with your thumb erases & cleans it fine. This one saves a ton of time.

    Rough cut pieces so they are manageable, to within an inch of finish. I use a cordless circular saw for this.

    A main tool box or bucket (maybe two) is good, set them in a central location, but on trim jobs I like to have a small bag or tray with the tools in it I know I will need only for the job at hand. I'm finding I don't really like to wear my tool belt so much when I'm doing trim work because I'm around so much prefinished high-end stuff anymore and a ding in that can just ruin your whole day. The only thing I need to really carry on me is my tape and pencil.

    Little giant ladders. Boy what a surprise they were to me.

    High quality hand tools, rasps, block planes, handsaws etc. Everything needn't be electric. They actually save time in the right instances.

    Laser level like the PLS180. Believe me, you'll thank me.

    A cell phone. Very important anytime you're working alone.

    Along the same line as the phone, when you're alone, don't get sloppy with the use of sharp cutting tools. Every time that table saw or router is turned on, concentrate like hell. Wear the protection like glasses & masks. We all get careless, I do, but really shouldn't.

    Alone & tired? Stop & call it a day, or at least take a quick nap.

    Don't take stupid chances.

    I too just ordered that 'Working Alone' book. Been meaning to for a while.

    1. ANDYSZ2 | Oct 25, 2008 04:19pm | #23

      Another tip for working alone is to have drinks and snacks on site and offer it to the other subs regularly.

      It is amazing how easy it is to get help when you have been generous  and sure is way easier to ask if you have broken the ice with a friendly gesture.

      ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

      REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

       

      1. Jer | Oct 25, 2008 04:33pm | #24

        Excellent.
        I have a big possible job coming up where I'll be working along side the unions (I'm non anymore), and I think a trip to BJ's or Sams might be in order for some of those snacks.
        It really does work doesn't it? Also, just extending your own self to them does the trick as well.

        1. bowquack | Oct 25, 2008 06:14pm | #25

          I have worked with (when my father ran a crew), and without, and really prefer without.  Great tips here, but I am wondering if anyone has a source for small parachute type leather bags for nails and screws and such.  I saw them years ago on a jobsite and they were great.  Guy had several, and hung the ones he needed from his belt. No spills, and always what he needed within reach.

          1. habilis | Nov 05, 2008 06:05am | #79

            re; parachute bagsCastle supply sells them. They have a few stores and a website.Any trouble ask and I'll post a link and look at mine to see who the manufacturer is.

    2. DaveRicheson | Nov 03, 2008 02:21pm | #70

      Alone & tired? Stop & call it a day, or at least take a quick nap.

      Don't know how mant times I figured that one out a little to late.

      think I even took the quick nap on the way home  few times,.... scarey

  10. craigf | Oct 25, 2008 03:57pm | #21

    I'd like to invest in more scaffolding/staging etc.

    Nobody else to hop up on another step ladder to grab the other end of something.

    1. ANDYSZ2 | Oct 25, 2008 04:14pm | #22

      Another set of ladders I highly reccommend are the 3' tall 3' wide steps on both sides.

      They work as saw horses, and as staging for priming, also make good stands for miter saw ,and a good rest for tools, and scaffolding stands, and they work well for 2 guys to lift a heavy beam at the same time.

      ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

      REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

       

      1. craigf | Oct 26, 2008 04:10am | #32

        Great tip! I still haven't gotten used to my bifocals and the short ladder I have just has steps on one side. I'm always trying to climb the wrong side.A couple of three footers and a plank would be handy.There was a good post about drywall benches awhile back.

  11. snap pea | Oct 25, 2008 06:58pm | #28

    Not a pro but I always work alone,

    Collecting as many tools as possible means I have the right tool for any unexpected situation that comes up. Tools I don't think I even really need always come in handy eventually. Having something I need to do and having the perfect tool just for that task kind of gives me a rush!

    If I'm working near the ceiling, having as many ladders as possible set up. Even little 2 foot step ladders that are easy to move around can get me as high as I need to be often, so just having them set up around the room prevents the hassle of having to move a larger one.

    Chop saws set up on different floors has been very convenient.

  12. rv10 | Oct 25, 2008 07:07pm | #29

    I second the "Helping Hands " Extenda-Pole,also You really have to organize E.G.
    hand tools in veto pro pacs,fasteners in carry bins (Stanley)with required bits -
    less trips to the truck the better . Good Luck.

  13. bobbys | Oct 25, 2008 10:03pm | #30

    I bought that book and was surprized on the good tips it had.

    After getting the book i put new fascia on 3 houses by myself and the tips on clamping were a life saver..

    They never had these new clamps before that work so easy, i even found a battery clamp that adjusts, I have not used it yet but have some ideas when i will..

    Im doing a fence now and clamped 2 levels on each post 2 ways so i can hold it and brace it.

    One thing i learned was i need straight material even if i go pick it up myself, Its too hard to struggle with bowed stuff.

    Also the widest tape measure you can find cause theres no one at the other end..

    Im a master at grabbing innocent passerbyers to hold something for a minute.

    Most anyones fair game, mailmen, inspectors, delivery people, ####{i always agree with them while there helping}.

    I tend to shy away from painters or sheetrockers unless im desperate;]



    Edited 10/25/2008 3:11 pm ET by bobbys

  14. peedee | Oct 25, 2008 11:03pm | #31

    So how do you do long (12'+) crown alone, esp. when they're 6" MDF? I've done a little, and continue to struggle with this. Thanks.



    Edited 10/25/2008 4:13 pm ET by peedee

    1. Jed42 | Oct 26, 2008 04:47pm | #33

      I use blocking.  I cut a piece of crown about 12" and mark the top / bottom on the wall, measure between them, then cut 45 deg. blocks a bit longer than that, and about 4-6 " wide.  1/2" material 1x material, whatever I have around...  I usually only need 1 or two for pine/pop crown, but you can make as many as you want for MDF.  I have tacked these in place as well as screwed them.  I prefer to tack them, as i can cross the nails in the ceiling if I don't have a truss / rafter to nail to.  Depends on how big a hole you want to fix.  It is important to note that it does not pay to try and cut the blocking just right (too tight), and this does require repairing a few nail holes.  But, don't worry - the painter won't mind!

      I also saw an article in FH a while ago (tips and tricks) that had some thing with caulk guns and something or other.  At the time, I decided I wouldn't try it, but you may be able to find it here (??) somewhere.

      Hope this helps.  It works really well for me. 

    2. User avater
      basswood | Oct 26, 2008 05:01pm | #34

      When running crown solo, I put the coped ends up first, then tuck the end of the next piece of crown in behind the cope. When the first piece is installed, I put a short piece of crown behind the cope to help get the alignment right in the corner, then pull the scrap out to tuck the next piece of crown in.I also use benches and planks around the perimeter of the room, so I can work without climbing up and down ladders.Plenty of backing and good marking of where the crown edges should meet the wall and ceiling help make the installation go smoothly too.

  15. User avater
    basswood | Oct 26, 2008 05:13pm | #35

    Good thread.

    Generous use of the Wheel & Clamp!

    Without a helper to schlep stuff around, the first thing I unload at the jobsite is usually a mini-scaffold based cart. I load my gear for the day into the cart and wheel it in. Then I set the cart up for the workday, and it follows me around like a well mannered assistant.

    I also consider weight when buying tools...the lighter the better.

    With apologies to those who have seen this a dozen times before, here is my assistant:

    1. Jed42 | Oct 26, 2008 06:57pm | #36

      Has anyone used the Kobalt belt-hung super mini compressor for finish work? I wonder how they work - How many nails (or jobs) per cannister? How heavy? How reliable?  I have to stop myself buying this everytime I go to Lowe's until I find out how it works.  Seems gimmicky and cumbersome - but at the same time handy and ultra light, compact and, obviously, portable.  To lighten the load, I have a 1.5 gallon Campbell Hausfeld "Quiet Air" mini compressor (I call it the "Hot Dog" or "Dishwasher" because of how quiet it is-$80 or less at Wal-Mart believe it or not).  I blame dragging the big compressors around for at least 4 of my 7 herniated discs, and refuse to use them unless It's coming out of the van and sitting at the job for a few weeks at least.  This also helps me in working alone - I can pu it in top of the stack I'm carrying in.

      1. User avater
        Haystax | Oct 26, 2008 08:00pm | #37

        I prefer working alone to having a helper - Dad needs a helper just for 'moral support' as much as getting anything done - kinda like a babysitter. I am finding that the further my house progresses and the more detail involved, the more help I need - aside from regular heavy lifting jobs, I've been pretty much solo.Kinda late to offer many new ideas, lots of great tips have already been covered here so I'll second the use of lots of quick grip clamps, reversible pads to push are awesome. My best work alone tools are my Fat Max tape and old fashioned awl - lots of finish nails for tacking up fascia and siding - Hilti Li-ion impact driver has been an absolute godsend on this project from the time I put up the first batten boards on the foundation.Werner 20' scaffold plank and two Little Giant ladders have been invaluable and worth their weight in gold - I think they are priced that way to begin with come to think of it ;)Air nailers and gun nails for each task - my Powertank CO2 setup was originally purchased for use with my Landcruiser and camping/rockcrawling excursions but it is great for nailers, re-filling a CO2 tank can be a hassle depending on your local welding supply or fire extinguisher recharge shop - some make you wait until they've got a few to fill do to losses in the bulk system assoc. w/ filling. Not sure about the belt mounted but CO2 is a viable option for trim work IMO.

        1. User avater
          AbbieHoffman | Oct 26, 2008 10:14pm | #38

          and two Little Giant ladders have been invaluable

          When they first came out I scored a great deal for a new one on Ebay. The biggest one they make being it was such  good deal. Am I ever sorry I bought that one. The things heavier then fifty ladders put together. I dread every time I have to use it.

          It's now my last choie of ladders unless I need a real tall A frame to work off of."Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit". abbie

          "Give them what they want" abbie

          1. dcarroll3000 | Oct 27, 2008 12:48am | #40

            Do the Little Giants split into "2" smaller frames like the Werners? I have

            the Werners from Lowes and they come with a kit to split the ladder into 2 smaller

            ladders or A-frames so you can use them as staging. I like keeping them split most

            of the time, as they're lighter.

            -d

          2. User avater
            AbbieHoffman | Oct 27, 2008 01:22am | #41

            Yeh...they split into two. Thing is...when i take it on a job I take the whole thing and split it if I need to. Damn thing weighs a ton and a half. I also bought the HD version (Gorilla)on Black Friday last year for $70.  A bit smaller and a whole lot lighter. Thats the one I use most often now. It's OK...I take the monster only when I need it.

            View Image"Revolution is not something fixed in ideology, nor is it something fashioned to a particular decade. It is a perpetual process embedded in the human spirit". abbie

            "Give them what they want" abbie

          3. ANDYSZ2 | Oct 27, 2008 01:46am | #42

            I was in Cosco the other day and saw a light weight little giant but I didn't catch the price.

            ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?

            REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST

             

          4. Jed42 | Oct 29, 2008 04:16am | #43

            Hey all.  Just thought I'd share a little technique I taught myself today.  Small but helpful.  Hanging wall cabinets.  HUGE humps and rolls in the walls.  I laid out the cabinets as always, and laid my 2, 4, or 6' level acroos the layout marks.  Then I took shims to the humps and tacked them into place at the thinnest edge (for easy removal, just in case) with my staple gun.  I was able to pre-shim most of the cabinets this way as I went along, and also able to simply slide the cabinet into place, handscrew them together, double check and then screw the heck out of them with just my two hands.  I know ledger boards are what most use for 1 person cab installs, but I always run into some problem where I need them to move or there are big humps in the walls. 

            Anyway, thought I'd share.  Who knew my staple gun would come in handy for finish work?

            No Coffee No Workee!

            Edited 10/28/2008 9:17 pm ET by Jed42

      2. Shep | Oct 26, 2008 11:17pm | #39

        I have Paslode finish and brad guns. I like them because there's no hose to get caught on things, like furniture and knick-nacks.

        Yeah, they're heavier than a regular pneumatic (which I also have), but I like the convenience.

        I've heard of guys complain about the unreliability, but I've had mine for at least 10 years with very few problems. And usually any problem is because the gun needs cleaning.

        1. Jed42 | Nov 02, 2008 05:13pm | #45

          This is on my list of things to get.  Unfortunately, I don't have the cash at the moment.  I like the Paslode framers, but have never used the finisher.  I've seen and used the DW cordless finisher, and a friend has the Senco cordless finisher.  He hates that thing.  Says it jams, misfires and/or breaks down once a week...?No Coffee No Workee!

          1. Shep | Nov 02, 2008 08:54pm | #47

            Is the Senco the one with the flywheel, that needs to spin up to fire?

            I know a guy with one of those. I thought it was extremely awkward to use.

          2. Jed42 | Nov 03, 2008 02:21am | #57

            Yeah, that's the one.  It is sorta weird to use.  It's also one of those tools that you pick up and use and think "Yeah...this is gonna break"...then it does. No Coffee No Workee!

          3. Shep | Nov 03, 2008 02:38am | #58

            I see Basswood already mentioned the Collins clamps. But get the pliers with the clamps.

            I don't care how strong your hands are. You'll need the pliers.

            I've got 2 sets (24) Collins clamps, and have considered getting more. They're very handy for pre-assembling moulding assemblies, like wall paneling frames.

            Edited 11/2/2008 6:40 pm ET by Shep

          4. DaveRicheson | Nov 03, 2008 02:53pm | #71

            Aren't you the one with the folding scaffold work station.

            Post him a picture of that set up.

            Sweet! 

          5. Shep | Nov 04, 2008 01:53am | #74

            Not me. I'm not that organized.

            That's Basswood.

    2. Jer | Nov 03, 2008 02:00am | #56

      I'm about to buy one of those folding scaffold-carts for a large interior job I just landed. I saw the one at HD for $109, and know that it's probably not the best, then checked out others online for twice & three times that. What do you think & would you get something different if you had to buy again?

      1. spike999250 | Nov 03, 2008 03:22am | #59

        I bought a werner about 3 years ago for 99 bucks  and love it . Now i don't use it everyday but it is holding up pretty well.  I am  short and this thing works great for me.  I made a board to with hooks to hang over one side and fastened a drill holster and old tool pouch to it.  I am thinking about buying another one to make one of those  cool tool platforms i just saw on here again today.

      2. User avater
        basswood | Nov 03, 2008 03:26am | #60

        Jer,I just use mine as a cart, and it is great for that. Mine is a Buffalo and it gets poor reviews as a scaffold (for weak casters, but since I don't actually climb on mine, no worries.That is a good price.Here is what I have:http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Tools-GSM4-4-Foot-Scaffold/dp/B0001YIUZM

        1. Jer | Nov 03, 2008 06:24am | #64

          Yeah....it's basically the same thing. Husky makes it I think.

  16. brucet9 | Nov 02, 2008 08:11pm | #46

    For carrying sheets of drywall and plywood the Gorilla Gripper is absolutely great - gives you complete control and ability to lift with your legs without bending over to get a hand under the sheet.

    http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Gripper-44010-Panel-Carrier/dp/B0007TYCA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1225645688&sr=8-1

    BruceT
    1. DonCanDo | Nov 02, 2008 09:32pm | #48

      You've probably seen this, but just in case:

      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrpVmwuRyig

      It's about the Gorilla Gripper... um, really.

      1. craigf | Nov 03, 2008 03:59am | #62

        Great video. Now you were saying something about a Gorilla Gripper?

  17. ponytl | Nov 03, 2008 03:59am | #61

    funny.... my hvac gfuy brought a guy with him to kinda help... he asked me if i could use him as an extra set of hands...  an older guy who fell on hard times and was living with the hvac guy (old friends) and the hvac guy is my friend...  he tells me... man if you just pay him $40 a day  (5hrs @ $8hr) it'd really help him out... so for 3 days he "helps" i'm setting curbs on the roof for hvac units and doing the flashing and counter flashing... on the 3rd day they get there late so i have a 2hr start on them... i replaced this guy with one good spring clamp... and got more done alone in 2hrs than i did with him in a full day... after doing the exact same thing for 2 days all day in the exact same order... this guy still had no clue what to do next or what tool or material i'd need next...  he took the bus home before lunch when he saw how much i had done ... and after watching me work alone for 20 minutes....

    at least he knew...  he left without say'n a word... which kinda pizzed me off cause i knew i didn't need him but was willing to help him out... if he'd stayed i'd have handed him a broom... they empty my dumpster every week and most weeks it's not full... i hate that... :)

    working alone tips...  lots of jigs... know exactly what tool and fastner you'll need and have them within reach,  know how wide your clamps need to be opened and set them as such before you need them... i have 3 cordless drills with different bits vs have'n to switch bits... plan and forethought go a very long way...  draw out what you are doing...

    i'm doing all my kitchens alone... far less screw ups... i finish as much as i can while i'm doing what i'm doing... ie: i don't want to come back and do anything i could do now... (because i'll forget and no one else will know)

    a job cart... i have several old motel maid carts... top and 2 lower shelfs... trash bag holder on both ends which is a metal loop... it holds clamps and with one added bar  hammers. prybars , ect... holes punched in the top shelf screwdrivers ect... just like a work bench...  the lower shelfs power tools...belt sander, biscut jointer, power door plane, and power plane, circ saw, 18v circ saw, drills...my chargers... ect... everything i need on one rolling cart...  I like shopping carts also...

    P

    1. rez | Nov 03, 2008 05:42am | #63

      Good. While back I got one of those pint sized shopping carts with the idea of making a tool cart out of it cause I've gotten tired of running around looking for a tool.

      Seems pretty durable.Behind the ostensible government sits enthroned an invisible government owing no allegiance and acknowledging no responsibility to the people. [Theodore Roosevelt]

    2. Jed42 | Nov 03, 2008 06:26am | #65

      Amazing how people "want" to work until it's "time" to work, eh?

      Since I started this thread (1 day after no more helper) I have almost doubled my production.  I figured out that it was mainly giving this guy things to do (when I could stop him from texting his girlfriend on his cell phone), having to stop and check on him, showing him AGAIN how to do it correctly, arguing with him about why his best-friend's-cousin's good-enough is not MY good-enough, and since he is not running this job, he will have to do it to MY good enough standard no matter how stupid he thought it was ("it's just casing-and it's getting painted, we can just caulk it!").  Then, eventually, handing him a broom and re-doing it myself.  Now, I come to work, turn it on the radio station I want to hear and work - usually through lunch - all day in peace, doing things my way, one time, correctly.  Not that I can't or havent taught others in the past.  I just don't think he wanted to learn or actually work.

      WHEW!

      Sorry for the rant, but I am very happy alone.  I am ordering 2 sets of those spring miter clamps (with the special pliers - thanks Shep!) and curently making jigs, investing in more clamps and learning new ways to use my tools and my time more efficiently.

       No Coffee No Workee!

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