We will begin framing a house next weekend that has two “half” octagons in the rear and I had wanted to vault one or both of them, but this variation of the house won’t allow me to do that. Here are a couple of pics of the blueprints.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
This time-tested installation method for flangeless windows ensures smooth operation and provides air, water, and vapor control.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Here are a couple more pics.
Nice Home.
Who does your home plans?Bay Shore Building & Design. Inc.
Residential Building & Computer Aided Design Services
http://bsbad.tripod.com
I'm not sure where the boss got the original design for this house. We've worked with a local designer for 25 years and he does most of the changes we want. Lately we've been building some houses designed by Mascord. I think you can find them on the web. I'll try to find some more info if you want it.
The plans look like plans I've gotten from "Design basics" over the years. They are generally poor prints to build from - Lots of mistakes.
BTW - Could you make the pictures smaller? They take FOREVER to download on a dialup, and they're too big to be viewed on the screen without scrolling.
Using trusses would have eliminated the need for posts and beams in the garage, and simplified framing.....................(-:Bumpersticker: It's time to change the air in your head.
Boss,
For that comment about trusses, I'm going to increase the size of the files!! HOW'S THAT!! ;-)
I'll try to decrease the size. The quality goes way down when I do that, but I'll see what I can do.
Today we had three guys and we got a lot done. I've got pictures of the back bedroom. We changed the pitch to 8 1/2-12, so we had two bastard valleys.
There are a couple of pics of the hips and some commons I precut for the octagon bay. I'm not done cutting yet. I test fitted some of them and realized I didn't set the ridge correctly. It is a little 6" ridge. But on the bright side, all the cheek cuts fit on the hips and I test fitted the common for the chamfered wall that had 73° bevels and it fit perfectly. I'm very happy with the result. I used the bigfoot with the swingtable and my arm is tired from pushing that saw at that angle. You can see in the pics that there are score marks from the level on the guard.
So far this is one of the flattest roofs I've worked on. I'm pleased with the quality of lumber. Some of these rafters are 26' 2x10s kiln dried.
Let me know what you think or any tips you've got.
Edited 2/14/2003 9:53:11 PM ET by TIMUHLER
Today I framed the bay. I was by myself this morning. It took me about 2 hours to frame and birdblock the bay. I didn't do a great job nailing some of my birdblocks on the chamfered walls and didn't catch it until I took the pic. The blocks make some of the commons look low, but everthing planes really well. I'm happy with the results, especially since this is only the second bay I've framed on my own. Thanks everyone for their help on this. I precut every jack, common and hip but one. I only had to cut one jack shorter, it was that bastard common.
I cut all the bevels with the Bigfoot, which is a workout, but worth the time.
The miters and bevels on the birdblocks were dead on the money. Thanks everyone for their help on that too. It saved me a bunch of time.
Let me know what you think.
nice work , good progress.. is that a Lull in the foreground of the last pic ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
It is this really really Badger Dynamics. We don't know much about it. Someone told us this thing is from the late 60's or early 70's. It's in good shape though. Saves us from lifting tons of lumber on each job.
Tim,
Nice work. Honestly, I wish I could come out and help even though you don't need it. I'm glad to here all the miters and bevels worked out fine.
On your bigfoot, does the guard ever stick down lower than the bottom of the saw table because on that bay that I framed this past summer, I think it was 73° I had to grind the guard down a little bit.
When I was cutting I notice the saw bumped up and when I turned it over that's when I noticed the guard was sticking down lower than the table.
I didn't notice any snow out there. ;-)
I have about 24" I'm going back out to shovel again in a little while, I'm waiting for Ken Drake to come over with his shovel.;-)
Joe,
You can see in the picture I posted on Friday of the precut hips that the lever on the guard raked arcoss the board and left a nice ugly crease. I could get rid of that lever, but how often do you cut 73°? I had that saw maxed out though. I now hold the jobsite record for steepest cut made with a wormdrive!!
Bigfoot now sells the 10" saw with the Bosch motor and body. I think that if this saw ever burns out, that is what we'll buy. Maybe I'll get the Bigboy and have 14" of cutting power! :-)
It was a little hard at first to make those cuts, but I just had to learn some "technique".
Hey, tell me honestly what you thought of the bay. If you have some pointers, then please give them to me.
We haven't had any snow this year. This has been one of the warmest winters. We are way behind in terms of snowpack. That's too bad you guys are getting dumped on. I take it you don't work in that stuff? ;-)
Does the 10" bigfoot come stock with the ability to cut the 73 degree angle or do you need to purchase the swing table also? Did you buy the saw from Amazon or directly from Bigfoot?
greg, tired of shoveling, in snowy connecticut.
I bought the kit from Bigfoot and converted one of our old Mags. I bought the swingtable at the same time. Stock the thing bevels to 45° I think. Now they are selling the saw with the new Bosch body and motor. The 15 amps is a definite plus. I wish I had waited a couple of months to get that increase in power. I feel this saw is worth the money.
http://www.bigfootsaws.com/teninch.htm
We got a lot done today. It was just 2 of us again but this is the fastest we've framed this roof yet. The pics say that this is day 5, but last week we only had a half day here and yesterday I was by myself all morning, so in terms 8 hours a day, we've probably got 4 days into this project. I'm very happy with the results. Let me know what you guys think.
Tim thanks for the quick reply. I have a 10" skil now, and will probably buy the 10" Big Foot with the swing table and use it just for cutting these odd(maybe not so odd anymore) angles.
The forklift is the way to go, but when they break down it can be expensive.Have fun in the sun tomorrow, I'll be shoveling again.
Greg in snowed in Connecticut
I took some pics from high up today. We are just about done and ready to skip sheet. Just a little more fascia to attach. Let me know what you guys think.
View Image
View Image
great pics..
that entry looks like it's going to get half the water from the roof.. what's teh strategy for that ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Oh we don't get water on our roofs here in WA ;-)
I'm assuming you are referring to where the big entry gable dives into the garage roof? After we skip sheet (sheat?) the roof, we'll build a cricket valley right there at the same pitch as those two roofs (10-12). We've built this house a couple of times and not had any problems with water.
Do you have any suggestions? I'd appreciate your opinions. And thanks for the compliments. Here is a pic of a variation of this house. You can just see the cricket valley.
<p>
View Image
no... just keep on keeping on.. must be quite spectacular in a gutter washer..
i'm guessing there are no gutters , is that right ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Nope. There will be gutters. Everyone here in western WA has gutters. In eastern WA, they don't use them because they get so much snow.
I'm posting this here, but it has nothing to do with this thread or this house. I just need someplace to post the pic.
Save drawing to your desktop and then you can open it and zoom in on it if needed.
Tim,
What do you do to support the outward thrust of the roof on a octagonal room? I notice you have built some octagonal rooms from your photos and I'm just curious to what other do to prevent the thrusting action of such a roof.Bay Shore Building & Design. Inc.
Residential Building & Computer Aided Design Services
http://bsbad.tripod.com
Jet,
I'm sure you've got the email by now, but I just posted over at the thread you started.
Both the bays in this house had ceiling joists. I would consider running a metal strap around the walls though. I think it would work, but I would find out.
Tim,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner but with all this snow and my snowblower not starting on Monday(that was great) I tried for an hour with no luck. I was so mad that I threw a kick at it but when I went to kick it my right foot sunk in the snow and my left foot went over the snowblower and I missed itand fell face first into the snow.........
Your not laughing are you? ;-)
Yesterday I kissed the snowblowerand said I love you, please start and after about 15 minutes it finally started.
Anyway, you did a nice job on that bay and I'm glad the angles we discussed worked out. I wouldn't do anythjing different.
Did you use all the bay rafters as patterns for the second one?
In this picture of the bay. Did you precut rafter #1 by deducting the length or run of the angle on rafter #2?
I cheated Joe ;-( Don't hang me!
I snapped out the intersections of all of those hips and those bastard commons on the floor. I took the number from the corner of the ridge to the point of that double cheeked common and used that as the run and used 37.33° as the pitch and got the diagonal and subtracted that off the total length of that common.
Do you have a suggestion for how to figure that? I did check it by figuring like you mentioned. If I remember right, on the bastard side of those hips I had to set the plumb cut 2 9/16" back from the plumb and set my saw to 73°. I had figured on using the 2 9/16" run and 37.33° and getting the diagonal length to reduce that rafter. I was within an 1/8" so I went with the smaller number, then second guessed myself and cut the rafter a little short and threw a shim under it. I wanted this thing to plane as pefect as possble.
Tell me if what I did makes sense to you?
I'm not framing the second bay. One of the other carpenters is and that bay was shrunk for the shearwall in the kitchen, so the pitchs on the chamfered walls is a little different.
Edited 2/19/2003 11:14:45 PM ET by TIMUHLER
"For that comment about trusses, I'm going to increase the size of the files!! HOW'S THAT!!"
I hope ya get a splinter from that lumber.
Actually - When people use conventional framing on houses, I like to tell 'em to stick it......................(-:It takes years to build up trust, and it only takes suspicion, not proof, to destroy it
Picture of what the bay in the back will look like.
Today we started the roof. It was just myself and one other guy and we cut all the hips, jacks and commons off of a cut list I made. I was amazed at how well everything fit together. We didn't have to do any adjusting. I'll post more pics as we progress.
You may have to open the pics in a new window.
We didn't get hardly a thing done today. I'm not happy. Again it was just two of us. We had to put in the 34' hip you can see in the picture. It was a 1 3/4 x 11 7/8 by 33' 11 1/2". We also put in a 1 3/4 x 9.5 x 26' 11 1/8". You can see the hip and the common in the picture.
We are going to have to change the pitch of the roof over the bedroom upstairs to a 9 1/8" pitch so you won't see it from the street. I hope tomorrow goes better.
<p>
View Image
Edited 2/19/2003 11:04:29 PM ET by TIMUHLER
Tim,
Great job so far as usual. To bad I didn't live closer, I would love to help you.
I would have to straighten out the 34' hip because it looks like it's crooked by 1/16.;-)
Keep posting pictures.
BTW, why did you have to change the pitch to 9-1/8? Was it originally 10/12?
Joe,
The only room I have to change the pitch is the upstairs bedroom above the kitchen. The kitchen was widened to allow for an increase in size of a shearwall. That widened bedroom #3 which increased the span of the ridge and the height. What we decided to do was lower the ridge until the top of the ridge cap would match the top of the ridge cap for the main ridge that that long hip is attached too. This ridge will be a doubled 1 3/4 x 11 7/8 LVL because the bedroom is vaulted. The main ridge is 1 1/2" wide. Everything else on this house will remain a 10-12. I hope to get a lot done tommorow and have some progress show up.
The pitch in this room will be a 9 1/8 -12. I'm figuring the angles right now. I like to figure them with the CM Trig Plus as a check. I figure them "long hand" first.