My roof has no overhang on the gable ends. There’s some sort of wooden moulding right under the edge of the sheathing/shingles, and below that is J-mould for the metal siding.
It looks bad. Any thoughts on what I could do? Our outfit renovates kitchens and bathrooms; I’m out of my element dealing with a home’s exterior. I wouldn’t want to come up with a decorative element that – let’s say – funnels water into my wall.
Thanks in advance.
Replies
Looks like the edge of the osb roof sheathing is showing just below the metal drip edge.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I used to be a project manager for a siding firm that worked on a lot of these types of details. To "spice" up the look, we would custom bend coil stock (usually .032 to reduce oilcanning) and add a brickmold profile to it instedad of the usual drip edge. We would run it down 5-6" from the roof edge, line it up with the gutter board on the eaves and finish with a bird box style end. This was usually done in the gutter color to add a color band that carried around the entire house.
Renovatorbob wrote: >I used to be a project manager for a siding firm that worked on a lot of these types of details. To "spice" up the look, we would custom bend coil stock (usually .032 to reduce oilcanning) and add a brickmold profile to it instedad of the usual drip edge. We would run it down 5-6" from the roof edge, line it up with the gutter board on the eaves and finish with a bird box style end. This was usually done in the gutter color to add a color band that carried around the entire house.Ok: I'm a counters, cabinets, faucet and sink kinda guy, so I'm a touch confused.- I'm under the impression oilcanning is deforming or wrinkling of the metal.
- I'm not sure what a brickmold profile is, but if it can replace a drip edge I'm thinking it can slip under the shingles.
- I take it that gutter board is another term for fascia.
- Bird box. . . that's the little box at the end of the soffit/fascia that many gable roofs have, right?If I'm picturing this right, it seems like a good idea.
Biff,
You are correct in your definitions. The metal edging ideally would sli[p under the shingles (preferrably about 3" under the edge of the shingle). It would then be bent 90 degrees down. You can put bends in the metal to give it rigidity. Tapco makes a hand held roller that puts three small offset ridges in coil stock. Look at a standard builder grade entry door at your lumberyard. It should come with the 3 step brickmold look i'm referring to. I like to base the width of my trim on the size of fascia under the gutter. That way I cayy an identical visual element throughout the exterior. The bird box is just squaring the bottom of the rake trim to avoid the plumb cut edge sticking out past the fascia.
I think Bob's idea sounds good, if I'm reading it correctly. Probably several variations are possible on that theme.
Of course, the other option is to actually extend the gables, but then you'd need a new roof and gutters.
Saw one like this about two years ago. The contractor came in and built "ladders" out of 2x4's then nailed them up and extended the roof out maybe 14". I was skeptical about whether it would hold up, but I saw it maybe a year ago and it looked fine.
Sadly, I wasn't there the day they were nailed up, but he had to have some kind of tie backs into the main roof. I believe they reroofed the thing around the same time.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
easy way:go in cut the siding back four inches and put 4" pc of miratech for trim and paint it a contrating color.
harder: do like another poster mentioned and extend a overhang and box it in. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
If you're going to reroof, my story might help.
I built a gable end shed with an oopsie. Hey, it wasn't my fault, I wasn't paying attention. Anyway, I wanted to extend the roof enough to prevent water getting behind the T-111.
I ripped a 2x4 at a 45 and nailed it to the siding flush with the roof sheathing, then shingled over it.
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SamT
Add shingle molding and a drip edge over it.. That's the way it use to be done, and should have on your house, years ago, before everything started getting wrapped in break metal.
To make it a maintenance free job you might use a synthetic trim board, but you still need the drip edge, and you will likely need to replace the shingles, etc. to get them over the new trim and dip edge. Looks like you have plenty of gutter projecting beyond the end on the house for an additional 1" of added material to stay behind it.
Dave
I think you could extend the drip edge an inch or two without having to reshingle.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Depends on how much overhang the shingles already have. IIRC a shingle molding is only about1/2, maybe 5/8' thick. add the outer folded edge of the drip edge and you get another 3/4 to 1". The total would still be less than 2", but I seldom see shingles overhang a roof edge more than an inch. After an inch they sart to droop or can get lifted in a high wind.
The reroof on one end would be easy. Just remove one row from top down and replace with matching shingles cut to the correct lenght. The other end might be a PITA because half or one third of the shingles would already be full lenght. Might require some carefull cutting and weaving to get an extra 2" added to them, but still doable.
Dave
But unless the roof is brand new the new shingles will never match.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Soooo right, but at least he would be covering all that end grain of the roof sheathing. He will be reroofing sooner than later when the sheathing rots out four or five inches back under the shingles.
Heck, in redneck country we could get by with a contrasting color shingle,..... just call,m acceeeent strips <G>
Dave
True. But I'm thinking that, properly done, you wouldn't need to extend the shingles. If the edging extended out maybe 2" beyond the roof edge and made a slight downward break at the roof edge, it would shed rain reasonably well and not look too crappy (assuming it was made from pre-painted stock, matching the gutters and trim). Especially on a low pitch roof like this one where you'd be hard pressed to see the top of it anyway.So, you go 3" under the shingles, break downward about 5-10 degrees at roof edge and continue out another 2", then bend down vertically (maybe with a brick mold profile) for several inches, then return inward to complete the box. Probably need to perforate the bottom return at intervals for drainage/air. You could size the bottom return to either overlay the siding or allow for it to be cut back.Not sure how you'd attach it, but I'm sure that could be worked out.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin