Is anyone aware of a product other than “Great Stuff” that can be sprayed or otherwise applied to a PVC soil pipe that travels down inside an exterior kitchen wall? Having switched to PVC from cast iron the noise levels are higher than I would like. Since we are in the middle of a kitchen gut out it would be an ideal time to insulate while the stud cavity is open. I don’t think fiberglass sound bats will be adequate, “Great Stuff” does not go very far per can to fill up an entire 2 x 6 stud cavity and Icynene foam would be impractical for one stud cavity. Any ideas?
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I have another idea from my plumbing expert. He has used lead sheet wrapped around the pipe to reduce noise. Obviously the labor cost is high but if it is just one section...
This may be more than you want to get involved with, but if the walls are open you`re halfway there. Why not switch back to the cast iron pipe. It`ll cost you, but it will most certainly solve the problem. This is the sole reason I avoid PVC at all costs when running waste lines past living spaces. Even if some form of insulation dampens the sound a bit, now that you`re listening for it you will most definetly hear it.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Turn up the radio in the kitchen?
I'm interested too. The sound makes your mind wander to thoughts less pleasant.
what about pipe insulation like the stuff the use in commercial buildings it comes in all sizes and is usually about 1 or 2 inches thick?
just a thought
Edited 12/10/2002 5:57:04 PM ET by kdinger
Edited 12/10/2002 5:58:09 PM ET by kdinger
Well, if cast iron works and lead works, it sounds like mass is the common factor. How hard would it be to wrap the pipe in expanded metal lath and plaster it?
Buy some "rubatex ' type rubber pipe insulation
stay with PVC pipe
Wain- that's my ticket out. Could you elaborate just a bit on the 'rubatex'?You pompous egotistical redneck, It's not a ponytail. I'm just getting ready for a mean combover and I'll look better than yours.
trade name for the black rubber closed cell material you see on air cond lines and plumbing lines in some industrial buildings
Another trick is if you can move one end of the pipe to knock it a couple of inches out of plumb. That way the water slides down the side of the pipe quietly,instead of swirling creating the noise.
If you put the "rubatex" inside the PVC - that should solve your problem.
-Peter
There are two theories of arguing with women. Neither of them works. -Bill Rogers
Some of what you are hearing may be the vibration of the pipe being transmitted to the framing, and thus the floor and ceiling, creating a resonance. At your local HVAC supply house you can get cork based, self-adhesive, pipe wrap. It comes on a roll. Is about 3/16" thick and about 2" wide. Good stuff for this sort of job and handy to prevent condensation also.
While wrapping the entire pipe would help IMHO the greatest gain, in terms of effort invested, would be to remove the hangers, one at a time, and wrap the pipe where the hanger makes contact. Once wrapped use the next size up of hanger. This should provide some isolation. Also look for any other points of contact between the pipe and any framing. Stuffing in a bit of the cork should dampen any vibrations.