What kind of toilet would best in the Northeast with well water that often is so cold that it causes the tank to sweat? Also, the power goes off occasionally in our rural area, so it’s important that the toilet can be gotten to flush (by pouring water in the tank or bowl) when the electricity is out. Thanks.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
When deck posts exceed what the prescriptive code tables allow, it's time to consult a structural engineer for post sizing and possible bracing.
Featured Video
Related Stories
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
We solved that problem (sweating) with a little valve you install that provides a dribble of hot water to the tank. It's an easy fix. Make sure you get the kind that has a drain (a screw with a neoprenewasher) so you can drain the plumbing sysyem when you close the house down for the season.
Do as above, or add an insulating liner to the inside of the tank.
we live in Coastal RI.... everything drips in the summer.. but not our toilets.. after our first house , i always spec insulated tanks for my customers on well water..no more sweaty toilet tanks
most of the mfrs offer this option.. and the factory installed ones are better than the kits
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You have several options:
--Install a tempering valve so that the toilet is fed a mix of hot and cold water. Some folks have just rigged this up with a pair of globe valves that are manually adjusted, but there are available tempering valves designed for this service that automatically adjust the mix to the right temperature.
--Install a tempering tank somewhere that stays warm, and feed the toilets from that. This can be an old water heater with the insulation removed, painted black, and then set on the roof (though there is the obvious problem with freezing in the winter). Or you could get a west-Texas water heater (rooftop tank) that is sort of purpose made for the same duty (though the same problem with freezing).
--Install an insulating kit inside the toilet. This is bascially foam insulation you glue to the inside. Various brands available. Obviously, there can be a problem with the insulation interfering with operation if not carefully installed.
--Buy a toilet with an insulated tank. The pressurized units essentially manage this because the pressure tank is inside the visible "show" tank, but a pressurized toilet wouldn't as easily meet your requirement for manual operation. (You can pour into the bowl, but not the tank.) However, I'm pretty sure there are conventional style toilets available with built-in insulation (though I can't name any brands).
Keep in mind that an insulated tank will solve the tank sweating problem but won't keep the bowl from sweating.
I have heard of folks just feeding straight hot water to the toilet, but I suspect that, in addition to being expensive, this could cause some operational problems.