Is there a way to finish interior T&G so that it doesn’t yellow much?
I have all that T&G and 4 large white pine logs to finish. Tried some minwax pre-finish, natural stain, and then the Helsmans Spar Polyurethane (yes, it is exterior grade…planned to use it to finish my windows)…and it turned my test log a golden amber. I’d prefer something much much lighter…more natural.
Is there anything? Finishing seems to be full of endless choices…
Thanks!
An architect and a handy homeowner team up for an exterior upgrade with energy efficiency, comfort, and durability as part of the plan.
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Replies
You might want to take a look at water based poly, it doesn't yellow or amber as much as oil based poly, some folks like the look but others think it's bland. It's application is sensitive to heat and humidity. It also does not build as thick as oil based so you have to apply more coats. Andy Charon (sp?) has a book on water based finishes that you might want to check out.
Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
Even if you choose a non-amber finish like water-borne varnish, the pine itself is going to turn amber over the years. Think about the color of lumber fresh from the lumberyard, and then think about similar wood that's been hanging around your shop for a while.
If you can protect it from UV rays, it won't yellow as much either.
Excellence is its own reward!
Bona Pacific. 2 part system and clear as water when dry.
Ditch
Luvditchburns
Does Bona Pacific raise the grain as most water-borne finishes? and does it claim to be an interior or exterior finish?Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!
Mike,
Yeah, grain raise is to be expected with water-borne systems. The key is too knock all the grain raise back off after the 2nd coat, then recoat 1 or 2 more times. If you want a primer on water floor finishes send me an email.
Ditch
If you plan on knocking down raised grain after the first coat, and you should if you choose a water borne finish, you might consider using a sanding sealer for the first coat. It's a lot cheaper. That's one drawback to using water borne finishes, they are a lot more expensive than comparable solvent borne finishes.
Plus, if you want clarity, urethanes are not the best choice, since they build in layers. Lacquers disolve previous coats so the finish gets deeper and deeper as you apply successive coats. Of course, for high wear surfaces, like floors or cabinets, urethanes hold up a lot better because they are harder than lacquers.
Finishing wood is a complex subject, to say the least. Really, it's a profession all by itself. Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim, the only place I would use a urethane is a floor, (urethane blows), and the only time I would use lacquer on a floor is the wash coat. If the sanding sealer you are talking about is a varnish base you just voided several warranties, (you can get sanding sealer in oil or lacquer).
We can can into lacquer finishes if you want, but they finish in micromils, and while they are unhappy going over different bases, different bases are happy going over them.
I wonder why people don't consider using shellac for the odd piece of floor, step, or threshold, a very useful finish that has been forgotten.
What was this thread about? Oh ya, go water borne or go uv protected urethane. Simple.
Good point qtrmeg. I grew up on shellac finishes. Orange shellac and varnish, multiple coats, wears like iron.
As far as grain raise with water-borne systems. Water-borne is designed to be applied in heavy coats, about 20% heavier than OMU. Using an approved seal coat designed to go under the water finish is imperative. The only "approved" seal coats are those produced by the finish manufacturerer. The seal coats job is to provide a barrier between the floor and top coats. You don't want the finish coats to impreganate the timber, the finish coats need to float over and adhere to the seal coat. This is what produces a 'wear layer'.
The major drawback to water-borne finish is grain raise. I never touch the seal coat with anything abrasive, not even a maroon pad. I wait until after the 1st or 2nd finish coat before I put a machine back on the floor. Because the water finish is designed to go on heavy, you will essentially fill the valleys of the grain raise with top coats. I then pad the finish coat very aggressively, sometimes 220 paper sometime a brown pad at high speed and recoat 1 or 2 more times. A good water job should consist of 1 seal coat and 3 finish coats.
Ditch
assume this is for interior finish. I used Benjamin Moore " stays clear" on both the pine T&G panelling and on the pine furnature in my condo in Mammoth. That was four years ago and they all have held up great and look like the day I did them. But non are in direct sun. I also wanted the fresh non yellowing look. I also used a two part water base poly on my oak flooring 6 years ago( in souther ca.) and it has held up great. Sorry I don't remember the brand.