Nonconventional Siding proposal
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I would like to hear from anyone that has attempted anything similar or can see any faults or improvements to the following.
OBJECTIVE
SWMBO and myself like the “log cabin†look but due to finances and the fact we want a super insulated house do not want the real thing.
LOCATION
This is located in northern Minnesota (= VERY COLD)
STRUCTURE
The siding will be fastened to 8 ½ inch thick SIPs (Structural Insulated Panels). This means that the fastening will be into ½ inch OSB.
Will have a conventional basement (poured concrete) and covered with standard roof trusses at 4/12 slope.
CONSIDERATIONS
The overriding consideration is to maintain the integrity of the SIPs. These are only OSB on the outside and are part of the structural integrity of the building so I am prepared to spend some extra time and money to prevent any possibility of future damage.
I also do not want to do anything that will prevent a residing if this does not work out.
The siding would be about 3 to 4 feet above the ground to minimize any damage and staining from snow and rain splash
PROPOSAL
1 – Protect OSB
The first layer would be to cover the OSB (of the SIPs) with 50 lb. felt paper. I know this is heavier than standard but would help protect and is less likely to get damaged during construction.
2 – Strapping
Will cut 3/8 inch plywood into 1 ½ inch strips to put vertical every 16 inches. This will be done to create an air space to allow venting from the bottom of the siding all the way into the attic.
3 – Backing
The strapping will be covered with ¼ inch plywood run horizontal. This is required as a backing for the chinking (see #5 below).
4 – Log Look
The actual siding would then be installed. This consists of rough cut 1 by 10 inch pine boards. I can get this a good price and kiln dried. I propose to pre finish these before installing by dipping them into semi transparent preservative. The finish will probably be a walnut shade.
These will be fastened to the above at each 3/8 inch strapping location with hot dipped galvanized ring shank nails.
The 1 X 10s will be placed with a 1 1/4 inch space between each to allow for the chinking.
5 – Chinking
I propose to use standard chinking available from many builders of log homes. I would like to fill the spaces to about half the depth of the 1 x 10s. This will allow for easy finish or the siding with the semi-transparent stain with a short nap roller without staining the chinking.
6 – Care and maintenance
Even though the 1 X 10s will be pre stained I would give the complete building another coat applied with a roller (mostly) directly after construction. This would be repeated the next year to give a total of 3 coats. The timing of this is to allow for any movement, cracking or checking to take place in the wood. From this point I hope that every 3 to 5 years would be enough.
PROBLEMS
1 – Window and door trim
The estimated total thickness of the siding is 1 and 5/8 inches. This would leave the windows (Anderson) and door trim that are mounted directly to the SIPs inset from the siding about ¾ inch.. I think this can be taken care of with trim boards around the window and door trim and will give a slightly inset look that would be a nice detail.
2 – The corners
The outside corners I have not decided on yet. With the use of 1 X10s I can not duplicate the look of a real log home. As I see it the options are (1) corner boards (2) mitered or (3) alternate lap ends. Options 1 and 3 are quick and easy but do not follow the log home look. Option 2 is time consuming and has the problem of the joint opening up over time as the wood shrinks and expands.
I hope I have explained this well enough for you to understand my ideas. What I am after is any ideas to improve this or make it easier or cheaper. Has anyone done something similar?
Regards
Ken_INNC