Is there a paintable nonshrinking caulk, for filling nail holes and especially ceiling to molding gaps? I have tried silicone, but it is way too sticky. Latex acrylic is easy to work with, but shrinks over time, so a good looking job looks bad in a few days or weeks. Vince
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Replies
you need to use wood filler or spackling for nail holes, then sand it smooth.
The better latex acrylic caulks are your best bet. DAP brand works best for me, although its a tiresome and messy process. I find, like you, that it does shrink when there is raw (unprimed) wood. The raw wood seems to suck the moisture out. Second coats are fine.
Never use silicone! You will never get a finish to stick, or an acrylic caulk, afterward. Not that I've ever picked up the wrong tube of caulking and used it.
In large part, it is where the filling is to occur. Crown molding at 8 or 9 feet is fine for a caulk finish. Window casings that you look at, at eye level (for some reason I'm reminded of my sisters window behind the toilet) need a higher level of finish. That is spackle, which can be perfect with sanding but often shows because of shrinkage, too.
best of luck
I paint the houses I build and have found minwax filler to be the best I have found for filling nail holes.
Thanks to Alan, Piffin, and danny. I guess the latex acrylic is as good as it gets. I'll just have to do two applications. (Sigh.) I will also try the minwax filler.
Regards to all
if you really have to use something window glazing works great. It doesn't shrink
and its paintable.
If I don't use regular DAP I use window glazing compound, minimal shrinkage, less waste. Takes paint well.
SJ
Lexell Super Clear Sealant.
Paintable, doesn't shrink at all, and doesn't come loose until you get ready to remove it yourself. Indoors or out, it performs the same.
For nail holes, I use either a good wood filler or good spackling.
James DuHamel
J & M Home Maintenance Service
"Southeast Texas"
Edited 5/20/2002 9:11:32 AM ET by James DuHamel
I'm with James on this one. I use tripolymer sealants (like Lexell Super Clear or Sidewinder by Dap, I think) on almost everything anymore. Paintable, doesn't exude oil like silicone, and it adheres well to nearly everything.
Admitedly, it's a pain to clean up although it's no worse than silicone. The trick is not making a mess; which comes with experience. Until then, don't be too proud to mask both sides of a joint. One more tip, if you feel like you're not laying down enough caulk, you're probably putting on just enough. The biggest cause of messy/crappy looking caulk joints is too fat a bead. I'm sure everyone knows what I'm talking about. You run your finger over the fat bead to trowel it smooth and next thing you know you're dragging a huge wad of excess caulk that's smearing all over everything.
ALANSENOJ has a good point as well. Latex acrylic should be fine for something that's far out of detail view. Just use the highest quality stuff you can find so that it stays somewhat flexible over the years. Alex painters caulk: bad. I like Dynaflex.
Edited 5/20/2002 1:26:56 PM ET by SAMSOTER
I frequently use auto body filler ("bondo") for nail holes when the surface is flat or on glued flat seams between pieces of trim or casing. The material is great it reacts quickly and dries in a flash, is extremely sandable and takes paint perfectly and for the experience I have had, never falls and/or shrinks over time. As for caulking seams, always prime first both the trim and the wall and then follow with a high quality latex acrylic applied correctly (forced into the joint and troweled/fingered smooth). Give the caulk the appropriate amount of time to dry and then two coats of finish. If the joint lets go in two months there is either an excessive amount of movement in the house or a poor caulking job.
IMHO
Bill