Notching beam techniques? (6×6, 8×8)
rickchem
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Anybody know a good technique/tool for notching large timbers, as for a lap joint or tenon? I started using a circular saw, cut both sides to depth, then cut into the end on either side to make a tenon, but since it does not go through all the way, needed to finish with a hand saw or sawzall. Would a chainsaw be too imprecise? This isn’t cabinetry, but then again I’ve only cut trees with a chainsaw(although more than a few a year). I’ve also thought maybe a router, but that might be too much material, or a radial arm saw, but that would require moving the saw to the lumber or vice versa, and buying a nice dado blade. . .and not sure it needs to be that perfect for exterior work!
Thanks
Replies
I've done a lot of that and, unless you want to spend some serious money on timber framing tools I would suggest you:
Use a good handsaw set up for ripping
Or, if you're accomplished, or careful, use a small, sharp chainsaw and stay on the waste side of your circular saw kerf.
I would suggest, though, that if you don't already have one, shop around for a slick to smooth up your mating joinery faces (a razer sharp slick is one of the most joyous tools in creation to use) and/or a good timber framing chisel....(an inch and a half is a good midrange size) and learn how to sharpen it!
A new one will run about $70+ plus, but is a good investment. You'll also need a good mallet if you use a chisel...my favorite for heavy work is a 32 oz. polyurethane carvers mallet...it's got heft and it's easy on the elbow.
Some of the larger Japanese pull saws are also excellent and keep their edge a long time.
One of the things I accepted about timber framing early on is that good joinery is a bit of work, but doing it kind of grows on you. I used to HATE kerfing and chiseling out notches, but eventually grew to really enjoy it. The satisfaction of a well made heavy joint is immeasurable.
Of course, if you've got a lot of it to do, and your pockets are deep, you can always invest in some very spendy specialty power tools.
But creating a pile of chips and shavings around your feet accompanied by the gentle sound of sharp steel slicing wood is quite pleasurable!
Have fun!
I've used the Prazi beam cutter a few times on jobs. A chainsaw bar that bolts to a worm-drive circ. saw. Quick and precise. Keep the chain sharp and even. Cat's py-jamies.
Here's a link at amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000224S9/ref%3Dnosim/lksmsubsite-sub-th-asin-20/104-7258556-4758354
Yeah, that's a good option, too! But be cautious with it, 'cause it can get you!
Thatguy,
ProBozo's post is the same one I was going to post. The Prazi Beam Cutter is a good investment for the money. I use mine all the time. I use mine on my Makita Saw. They also make one for the Wormdrive as ProBozo said. It makes nice smooth cuts. It doesn't take long ay all to hook up to your saw.
I'll give you a link also. I don't know if it's the same as ProBozo's.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0000224S9/ref%3Dnosim/lksmsubsite-sub-th-asin-20/102-3211492-8135309
Also Bigfoot has a Head Cutter Table. It's a circular saw table that hooks up to a chainsaw, so if you have a chainsaw already, maybe you can just get the table.
The Prazi is probably easier to wotrk with because it's right on your saw and you can always take it off to use the saw again.
http://www.bigfootsaws.com
Joe Carola
Edited 5/25/2003 8:37:03 PM ET by Framer
As an industrial carpenter at a local steel mill, we had a hard time finding 110 volt outlets to hook up to for our circular saws...hence we took to carrying 16 inch Homelite chainsaws on every job we did. We became highly proficient in their use, since we used them all day long, every day.
It's very advantagious to use chainsaws to cut off the ends of any 4X4 post or larger. We cut many half laps and not as frequently... tenons. All I can say is that this was still "rough carpentry." You can get really close to perfect lap joints with a chainsaw if you take your time, but you will still need a really good chisel to finish the job right. As for tenons, it's easy to sometimes wander off your mark a bit if you are not holding the chainsaw in perfect alignment while cutting.
I would think the Prazi tool would be the better choice over using a regular chainsaw...it would cut like a chainsaw, yet be more precise. As for using handsaws...on 8X8s...not on yer life baby! That's why we all carried chainsaws to our jobsites in the first place! Why make your work harder if you don't have to?
One last thing worth mentioning...anytime we had an ongoing fued with some other trade in the mill ( riggers, plumbers, bricklayers, etc.), we simply fired up our chainsaws... magically, we always won the arguments!
LOL.
Davo
Agree with all of the above, but for temp. or single/few only use, I've had good results with kerfing, and what I know as "bread slicing" to waste the bulk and then finish with my slicks and framing chisels..(which I know how to sharpen razor-like...If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
would you describe a slick? Thanks
...A slick is a longer chisel,9-18" long blade,which is usually used for paring, and planing long, flat tenon/mortise surfaces.
I bought mine from a timber tools catalog here in B.C., but any of the framing chisels available through Lee Valley, Garrett Wade, etc, would surfice for shorter 4x4,6x6, or even 8x8 timbers.Cheers,Phil.If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
thanks for the info, the more I know, the more I realise how little I know, ya know?
....I know so little, the potential for intelligence is mind boggling!If it is to be.... 'twil be done by me.
Thanks all-
I settled on setting up my circular saw with a rip guide and jig to make the laps. Leaves a bit left in the middle- but then I hit the waste piece a few good times with the hammer, pop it off, and clean up with a wood chisel. . . worked pretty nicely, the visble edges were clean!
I know I`ve said it before (ad nauseum), but there just isn`t much you can`t do with a chain saw when it comes to timbers and logs.
WE INTERUPT THIS POST FOR A SAFETY BULLETIN:
CHAIN SAWS ARE DANGEROUS IMPLEMENTS. THEY COMMAND RESPECT. THEY ARE NOT SUITED FOR CASUAL USE BY IGNORANT PERSONS. THEY WILL CUT YOU SO FRIGGIN FAST IT IS UNBELIEVABLE! IF UNCONTROLLABLE KICK-BACK OCCURS, YOU MAY AS WELL HAVE A TARGET ON YOUR NECK!!
WE NOW RESUME OUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED POST...
With much practice I promise you, you can cut acurately to a scored line and finish with a sharp chisel (no....sharp! Like shaving end-grain-white oak-sharp...) so fast it`ll make you wonder what all that other crap in your tool box is doing there.
drawbacks:
must fill with gas and bar lube about every twenty minutes or so
stinks and smokes and screams like he11, disturbing the quiet and birdies
vibrates hands and teeth
can`t hear cell phone
puts wood chips in all of your socks (even after they`re washed)
scares small children and dogs
plus side:
Looks macho (squint a little when the chips bounce off your face)
Is really fast and makes others wonder why they didn`t think of that.