I was wondering if anybody had any ideas about this:
Lately I’ve gone into a run of remodeling bathrooms. In the older part of the city that I do most of my work in I keep running into these old cast iron bathtubs that have no tile lip on the three sides of the tub that are usually met with a wall of tile. This invariably leads to the grout and caulk eventually separating from the tub and water running into the enclosed walls. Over the years, everything rots out, the tub sinks even more, making the problem worse.
I know that proper caulking with silicone will probably stop the leaking, but I just can’t trust that the homeowners or the renters will do that.Then I’ll be getting called back in time to have to account for more sinking, more mildew, and more rotting wood.
What I’ve allways told clients is that these old ’50’s era tubs must go. The tubs are also several inches short of five feet and one of the old walls must be rebuilt to accomodate the standard tub, and therefore the plumbing supply and drain have to be replumbed. They are also quite a pain to take out; I’ve used sledge hammers, blowtorces, grinders with cut-off blades, everything.
My latest client is one of my most loyal and I really would like to save him some cash. It’s in one of his rentals, and I need to find a way to add a tile lip. I thought of betting a strip of stainless steel bent, then using some kind of marine-grade two-part epoxy to secure it to the tub. Sound o.k.?
I told him that if I came up with a way to do this that I felt would work, I could maybe save him the cost of a new tub and all that labor. He had the whole thing redone 10 years ago, same tub, and now the same problem; lots of mildew mustiness, floors and walls are starting to show the trapped moisture.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Replies
Put the whole tub in a pan of PVC pan liner? Figure out how to drain any water that gets in there. Like a tub inside a stall shower.
I don't know what you could do to guarantee that epoxy would stay stuck permanently to cast iron. Call Permatex and ask them. The urethane goo that's used to glue car windshields might work better. Flexible so it won't crack or come unstuck with temperature changes. Amazingly durable stuff. HArd to apply. Has to be heated to 400 degrees. Once it cools, its permanent.
Johnny,
I don't get the issue. I mean do you offer a life time warranty or what. Offer the guy a price to change out the tub and a price without. Explain in detail what happens if he chooses to go with the existing tub. Offer a price also to stop in every year and check and recaulk tub as needed.
Now do the work as requested. The customer is an adult. Give them what they want with clear warnings as to the ramifications of not going with the recommended method. In writing. Do the work, collect the money. Sleep well. DanT
I have dealt with several of these. Some involved tile replacement, others just recaulking. Even had a few failures to 'hone' my technique...
My understanding is that these tubs were designed to be used as just bathtubs, not with showers. Showers were added later when showering became popular, and drive more water at that seam.
I have one in my own house with a 1924 date on the bottom. If you leave a 3/8 to 1/4 gap, and fill it with a polyurethane sealant, it will hold for many years. A somewhat thicker bead allows for more total 'stretch'. This stuff is very sticky and elastic. Unfortunately, it is also messy to apply and tool. Obviously, the surfaces need to be very clean for good adhesion.
Also helps to caulk the tub and let it cure while full of water, to fully 'presag' the framing. This way the caulk will not get 'stretched' when the tub is filled.
Backer rod may also help with elasticity properties ('hourglass' shape), though I have not used it.
If you use a backer board, you can make a redundant seal between the backer board and the tub for added insurance.
Much cheaper than a tub replacement. Tile lip or none, tubs need to be recaulked periodically. That's just normal maintenance. Hey, even if recaulking needs to be done once per decade, you still come out ahead sticking with the old.
I installed one where I used some tape that I use to seal window flanges. I stuck it on the tub and the other side to the 6 mil poly I stapled over the studs. It's pretty sticky stuff when you go over it with a hair dryer.
Edited 10/21/2003 11:26:42 PM ET by BJC
I work on old tubs frequently, and have had very good results with backer rod and Bituthane. I use the Bituthane in corners, half-walls, and on to the top of the tub. I always leave a ¼” gap from the wallboard to the top of the tub. You will always get moisture problems if you have anything that will absorb water near the tub, i.e. drywall, tape, or wood. The backer rod fills the gap, and a high quality mildew resistant silicone caulk does the rest. You do have to maintain it, just tell him to make it part of his regular maintenance checklist. It’s far cheaper than replacing things later. BTW, I always encourage all my clients to keep the old tubs, even if it means having them refinished.