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Discussion Forum

Old Cedar Shingle Roof Revitalizing

rez | Posted in General Discussion on June 13, 2006 05:34am

Beneath the looming pines that sway there lies a cedar roof in way
Covered now with needles and who knows what else might be at hand
May I inquire what best be done to vitalize this wayward one
Then cleansing and the coating too, to help preserve and I thank you.

be the second cup of java

Did you know Notchman is the modern reincarnation of TomBuilder


Edited 6/13/2006 10:37 am ET by rez

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  1. sungod | Jun 13, 2006 06:58pm | #1

    Very hard to do. Get a long rake and carefully pull all the debris off the roof. Long rake is to prevent walking on it that will break the shakes. Water blasting will make it clean and new looking, but will take years off of its useful life. Just leave the dirt on the shingles, it probably protects better than anything else.

    1. BryanSayer | Jun 13, 2006 09:19pm | #2

      I had a spruce over my roof (not cedar shingle). The spruce needles collected, the sap kept them from being washed off in the ran, and the dirt stayed in place.Then things started growing on the roof. Not moss, plants.Leaving dirt on a roof is not a good idea. And evergreeen needles are a very bad idea.I brushed mine off with an outdoor push broom, but I could walk on the roof. That is, after I re-built that section of the porch. Which was already a re-build.Those fools who planted evergreens at the corner of houses in the 20's and 30's were mistaken when they thought is wouldn't do any damage.

      1. sungod | Jun 13, 2006 11:12pm | #3

        I should have been clearer. Just enough dirt to coat the shingles, not enough to grow stuff.

        1. BryanSayer | Jun 14, 2006 05:28pm | #4

          Personally, I think "just enough" is impossible when dealing with sappy trees and evergreen needles. But I also can't say that I was able to clear everything off either.I routinely swepts off enough needles to fill a 20 gallon trash can each year. I've heard second hand that the people who bought the house from us cut the tree down.

          1. palacial | Jun 14, 2006 10:26pm | #5

            What about these Cedar room sealers that come in colors that are supposed to look aged...  I can't recollect the name of the product, but we have a 17 yr old cedar room that looks much older...  we like the turned up corners on the shingles, but we want to seal it for longevity... 

            Do you know anything about these sealers  and if they truly work?

            I looked at examples in another neighborhood and the shingles looked dead, and it was an upper end community...

            Are there alternatives?

          2. BryanSayer | Jun 14, 2006 10:41pm | #6

            Sorry, no I don't know anything about them.

  2. Tyr | Jun 15, 2006 02:21am | #7

    Cedar shingles right? Not shakes? I'm the only guy with shakes in my area and after 30 years they are coming off. No new shakes going on. Liked them but boy have I had to pay. First it was more expensive to start with, then when it hailed everybody but me got a new roof (those are just dents son, they are not starting a crack--wrong) and the insurance companies charge me 20% more. A new roof that looks very much the same not only get rid of the 20% surcharge but qualifies for another 20% discount. If it's old, replace it. You will be money ahead. Now about those trees..... Tyr

    1. rez | Jun 15, 2006 02:45am | #8

      yep, shingles.
      Just fishing for ideas on a place not mine.
      Think I'll leave it alone. In this case if it's not broken...

      Beware. RFID is coming.

      1. etherhuffer | Jun 15, 2006 03:06am | #9

        Cabot Bleaching oil.  Its basically bleach, linseed oil, and grey pigment. I used some on shed shingles and it looks nice. You kind of need clean wood to start, and it has to be dry so the linseed oil can get in. Has the classic silver grey of old barn boards. That said, linseed oil soaked shingles are probably nice and flammable, more than with the cedar alone. I have no idea if linseed oil on top will trap moisture below the shingle. Technically, the shake and shingle roof should not be done over flat tarpaper, but often they are.Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

        1. rez | Jun 15, 2006 03:21am | #10

          Cabot again.
          You and Danno have me convinced to try the stuff:o)be well oiled

          Beware. RFID is coming.

          1. etherhuffer | Jun 15, 2006 06:37am | #11

            Looks pretty. Can't vouch for endurance.Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

          2. palacial | Jun 15, 2006 02:32pm | #13

            Hello:

            I like your Voltaire quote, which makes me hesitate lots of times and not proceed with products.  How does one find out if something really is laget?

          3. etherhuffer | Jun 15, 2006 06:44pm | #14

            Well, talk to lots of folks and ask one more question every time. We we told a load of bunk by a plasterer(Venetian stuff) at a home show. "no need to prep, smooth, surface, sand, etc just let us skim it up." When they showed at the home, "you need to prep, smooth, surface, sand,"   etc. I think this board is a great place to get a good scope of answers to questions, even better in that you get advice from all different parts of the country. What works in the NW might not in the SW.Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

  3. dutchblue | Jun 15, 2006 07:29am | #12

    Up here in the great Pacific Northwest we do quite a few of these.  Pressurewash, wear golf shoes with metal spikes!!  Then go back after a couple of days of sun and put down some Shakelast,comes in clear and cedar tone.  We put it down with an airless sprayer liberally.  3 foot extension wand keeps your face from being to close.  Wear a respirator if it is not windy. 

    http://www.stonewayroofing.com/products/productDetails.view?_mode=details&rowId=130&from=homeowners&context=prodType&ctxid=69

     

  4. User avater
    JDMELLO | Jun 16, 2006 12:49am | #15

    Wearing a well anchored safety harness / tether setup, try this:

    Start with a handheld leaf blower & stiff bristled push broom. Remove as much debris from the roof as possible using light to moderate effort. Start from  the ridge and work towards the eaves. Tread lightly, don't blow and sweep so hard as to cause damage.

    Using a garden pump sprayer, apply a mix of 75% wood deck cleaner and 25% chlorine bleach to roof. Allow solution to work for 10 - 15 minutes then clean with 2500 -2800 psi pressure washer using a 25 degree tip. Do not place washer tip closer than 10 -12 inches to roof surface. Do not allow solution to dry on roof surface. Again, work from the ridge to the eaves. Do not direct water against water shed of the roof.

    This method may not remove all the tree sap from the roof surface but it will remove the accumulated dirt, moss and algae.

    Good luck!

     

  5. andybuildz | Jun 16, 2006 01:16am | #16

    Personally, I'd just blow the debris off with a leaf blower. If the roofs not too bad and its a walker I'd gently use a broom to get off the heavy stuff.

    I doubt anything you put on a roof is good for more than a year being that some of the best wood preservatives for decks never really last more than a cpl of years at most. A cedar roof has to be a lot harder to preserve than a smooth deck.

    As you may remember I put on over 40 sq of cedar shingles a cpl of years ago. I go up and clean it off and thats it. Thats all I'll ever do. When it gets close to bad....sell!

    If theres trees around it install some zinc strips to keep the green monsters away.

    Be well

    a...

    If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

    TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

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