Replies

1. 
   donpapenburg | Feb 04, 2004 04:11am | #1

   Kool.

2. 
   IMERC | Feb 04, 2004 04:39am | #2

   You are good....

    

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

3. 
   Floorman | Feb 04, 2004 06:57am | #3

   An urgent question for you.

        Due to the fact that you use a lot of water base finishes I thought that you might have experienced a situation I am having today. I am applying Traffic for the first time over  3/4 Caribbean Walnut. We applied the Bonaseal yesterday with a foam cut in pad and an 18" Bona applicator. No problem.  Today we used a maroon pad with three sanding strips to buff down the raised grain. It was brutally rough even after a final 120g drum and 100g buff screening with a final pass with really old 100g screens. Then we applied the traffic at a rate of 500 sf per gallon. Same rate as the Bonaseal. I went back to the job three hours later to look at it and one could see the push off, feathering marks on the final back out of all rooms and at the ends where the 18" wand straightened out the ends. Those lines perpendicular to the length were darker in color. My rep thinks that the finish just hasn't cured at those areas yet, and that they will probably be gone when I get there tomorrow. Have you ever experienced this effect and what was the outcome. Although I have applied a lot of water base over the years, the 18" wanding method is new to me although I lambswool all of my oils. GW 

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Feb 04, 2004 12:59pm | #5

   Greg,

   If the ends (or any area is heavy), it will be more apparent with water. I have had floors I was sure would need a redo, with all the backing down lap lines. Then, after a few days the floor evens out.

   Ditch

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Feb 04, 2004 07:49pm | #7

   btw...are you guys padding out your applicators after every pull and before straightening out your turns? (turn the t bar parrellell to your last pull and on a dry row near the snow plow line, push down on the stick, squeezing the excess finish out). If the applicators are full of finish, they leave too much at the wall.Ditch

1. 
   Floorman | Feb 05, 2004 12:42am | #8

   Thanks for the reply.

        We did squeeze out the applicator before straightening out the ends. Today on the final coat we even used the paint pad to final the ends just to make sure. 95% of the ends have no overflow from the applicator because there are some small flow lines on the ends, yet the discoloration show up on most all of the ends. It is like the wood sap sucked up into the variations of the differing thicknesses of the Traffic. It seemed to show up less as the day got later. I am going back in a few hours to turn off the lights and check it out. The floor over time will bleach out the problems as it gets older and darkens. I think.  But I appreciate the input about it taking a few days for these types of problems to subside. GW

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Feb 05, 2004 01:14am | #9

   Greg,

   Is it a tannin rich floor??w.o. maybe?

   Contrary to what Bona says about BonaSeal "minimizes tannin bleed"....not true, waterborne sealers will pull tannin more than omu, and when you make your turns with the first coat you can pull the tannin out of the wood across the boards and 'bleed it'. Sometimes this will almost look like streaking.

   I only use Bona's FastDry Sealer now (omu) and topcoat with water.

    When I have to use BonaSeal: I use a 9" trim pad and cut the walls in, with the grain, about 2' out into the floor. On the first water coat....don't make any turns on dry timber....turn on the wet sealer.

   Good luck.Ditch

2. 
   Floorman | Feb 05, 2004 01:40am | #10

   This floor is Caribbean Walnut (T'salam). We did not have any problem with the application of the Bonaseal. No laps or flow lines on the ends. It was the first coat of Traffic that started the problem. I do not know if T'slam has a tannin issue like White Oak has. We used to apply waterbase very thinly with the early 1980's version of Pacific and Pacific Plus over White Oak so that it would dry so fast as to not pull the Tannin. These issues are why I sell and stay with the oil polyurethane whenever possible. I also find that applying waterbase solely with a paint pad on my knees gives zero problems. I just thought that I would try the methods that everyone else is using by dragging the finish. I do not know if I will do it again in the future. I do not need the stress.  GW

3. 
   HARDWOODGUY | Feb 08, 2004 02:29am | #12

   That's an eye opener for sure. Nice work.

   Ken Fisher

4. 
   luvmuskoka | Feb 08, 2004 04:01am | #13

   Thanks Ken.

   I've been meaning to put a cd together...and get a copy to ya.Ditch

4. 
   CAGIV | Feb 04, 2004 08:53am | #4

   very nice detail.

   do you spline or biscuit or anything, the mitered joints?

1. 
   luvmuskoka | Feb 04, 2004 01:00pm | #6

   I try to lock as much as the floor as I can. The mitres are splined.Ditch

5. 
   Floorman | Feb 05, 2004 04:39am | #11

   I went over to see the final coat late afternoon and I was amazed. It looked almost perfect. There were some faint lines from coating my way out, but little else. I do have a question. There is a quarter moon 3" wide that is lighter going across the boards, like the applicator was turned and it was not straightened out fully. How long do I have to wait to sand it out and coat over? Will the recoat over that area blend in with Traffic Satin around it? Thanks, GW