Hi, any help on one this would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
My home was built in 1950 (I believe the builder was Shipp, Mississauga, Ontario, Can) I’m starting to think about renovating my basement. The first thing I’m assessing is the drainage system.
I have one OPEN drain close to the stack (cast iron). I think its connected to the main sewage line, because when the p-trap dries up, it really stinks! I also have a COVERED drain? (screw cap, sticks about 3/4″ out of floor) in to corner of basement where to old oil furnace was located, and the supply water line enters the house.
Questions
#1: Is it a correct assumption that the open drain is tied into the main sewage line, or would it go directly to the sewer on its own?
#2: Can I tap into it for a basement washroom?
#3: I’ve heard some basement drains will drain directly into the weeping tile. Is this true? How can one tell?
#4: What is the mystery “drain” by the furnace? A sump pit maybe?
Thanks again,
Justin
Replies
#4: What is the mystery "drain" by the furnace? A sump pit maybe?
Sorry not thinking today, this must be a cleanout?
It's hard to say for sure that the drain is connected to the sewer, though circumstantial evidence would suggest that it is. It largely depends on local codes, terrain, etc. Some localities would require that the drain be connected to the sewers, other prohibit it.
In general it should be possible to tap into drain lines under the basement slab, but you're dealing with 50-year-old cast iron, and a bit of skill is required to avoid botching the whole thing.
Dan said: "In general it should be possible to tap into drain lines under the basement slab, but you're dealing with 50-year-old cast iron, and a bit of skill is required to avoid botching the whole thing."
I've never seen cast iron run horizontally under the basement slab. In my experience, once the lines go under the floor, they transition to tile. (Though working with 50-year old tile without busting it up is no walk in the woods, either!)
As for finding out if the floor drain is tied in to the sanitary sewer, suck out the trap, flush the toilet and listen for the water. One other possible limitation the OP may face that has not been mentioned is that, depending on where he wants to locate his new fixtures, he may not have enough drop in the lines below the floor if they are shallow. He'll probably need to do a little exploratory digging to know anything for sure.
Always an adventure!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I had my basement underpinned and replaced all the plumbing. 1920ish house and the horizontal wdv was cast iron, I kept the main stack cast iron and had the hoizontal run replaced with abs. Also had the drain tile replaced and it was virtrified clay.
Thanks, everyone, great input.
I'm thinking the entire thing is cast, as the clean-out is also cast. I have to dig it up anyway, guess thats when I'll find out for sure. I've also come accross clay in Toronto at my mother in-law's place. She had a flood in the basement bathroom. Toilet was old and loose, the wax seal failed and water backed up. When renovating I found whoever put in the bathroom and replaced main stack, jammed the ABS pipe into the clay and back filled the joint with concrete, yikes! Long story short, huge job to fix issue, it didn't show signs of leaking, but I left exposed for a while, pumped tons of water past it, no leaks so I left it, fingers crossed ever since.
Anyway, back to my bathroom, I plan to put it in close to the main stack, so I'm hoping I can find a path that will give me enough slope. Where would I find the "backwater valve!!!!!!!!!!" if I have one, if i don't where whould it go?
Thanks again guys, this is a great forum.
Generally the backwater/check valve is either in the drain opening itself (but obviously not in your case or it wouldn't evaporate dry) or near the exit, looking something like a cleanout.
Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle. --Mahatma Gandhi
Don't forget the backwater valve!!!!!!!!!!
must be installed for a basement washroom as in 1950 there may have not been one installed at the main for the whole house.
Make sure you leave the top of it accessable for maintenance later on.
wouldnt it be possible to skip the backflow if the work would be higher then the manhole for the sewer in the street
Yeah, backflow valve is only needed if there's a "reasonable danger" of a backup. Precisely what is "reasonable", of course, is subject to debate.Some jurisdictions may require the valve.
Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle. --Mahatma Gandhi
I did a basement bath ~ 50 miles north of Missassauga a few years ago. The floor drain in the basement was connected to the sanitary waste, however, on the same property, the downspouts and weeping tile were connected to a seperate storm drain.
To my suprise, the pipe under the slab was iron, and in very good condition after 50 years. Must be the hard water and limestone soil.
Did another basement bath in the city of Toronto a couple years ago. I can't recall what the floor drain was connected to, but do recall that all the pipe under the slab was clay. We had the whole basement slab removed on this job, and replaced all the clay pipe under the house. They did not use fittings on the original clay pipe install. They mitred the pipes at the angle they needed, butted them together, and covered the joint in blob of concrete. I had never seen pipes fitted this way, but was told it was fairly common at that time in that area.
You could hire a co. that specializes in drain service to put their camera down your pipes. This would tell you what the pipe is made of, where the pipe is, how deep the pipe is, and how well it is pitched. And you would know all this before you hammer out any of the floor.
H
Worked last year on a 99 YO cast iron system that had not been operated for about 30 years (Pop used Grandma's house for storage, built 1907).
Brother and I refurbing the house after pop died, pressure washed the basement, thought the loose mortar clogged the drain, but actually was rust from under floor concrete pipe - sucked it out of the big 4" ptrap with shop vac, lots of rust inside the rest of the CI pipe. Probably not a problem if it has been in continuouss sewer use
Great, all my questions have be answered. Thanks to all. I haven't had any back-up problems, but I will drop by HD and pick up the valve just in case, I believe it's only a couple of bucks. thanks again.