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I am presently remodeling a 160 year old house. Upon removing some of the rotting floor boards we discovered we needed to replace the majority of the floor joists in one area also. The old joists were 3×10 and not fastened to the beam that runs around the perimeter, just notched and sitting on top. Made periotic leveling of the floors easy, just shim at beam. Any ideas on how I should replace these. I thought about doubling 2×10’s and notching just like originals, 24″ centers. Or 2×10 16″ centers and fastening to the beams. Which would be better or any other suggestions appreciated.
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Replies
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Offhand, I'd plan to actually calculate the joist needed; what's there may well be oversize. On the other hand, 24" oc is pretty big. Code limits the size of an end-notch to something like one sixth (a guess, no book in front of me) of joist depth. Make sure you properly block the joists at the beam so they can't twist....
*Neals,The old floor held up for 160 years?You might go back with what they had.If you only get another 75 years out of that.....How old are you anyway?Ed. Williams
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Always the pragmatist, eh Ed?
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Neals
I have done many old houses in which the floors are just what you described. Except I have seen floorjoists as small as 3x4 last 200+ years. If it aint broke dont fix it. But I did replace one a couple years ago. Prior remodelings had damaged the floor. We used silent floor. It was easy to handle in the tight spots. First mortise in a rim joists around the perimiter. and use hangers to attach the joists. Dont skmp on glue!
Rick Tuk
*Our inspector wouldn't let you get away with anything but Simpson Joist Hangers. Block and notch all you want, but he would want to see some joist hangers. They are code out here in SoCal, and there are no exceptions.I would use 2x10 or 2x12, depending on the ceiling restricitons. Depending on the span, they might have to be doubled. My Code Book would tell me, and since I don't know your span, your inspector should tell you. I would use Simpson Joist Hangers, and block between each joist every 6'. I would shim the joists to level accross the room, and top with 1 and 1/8 T&G subfloor. The stuff will not deflect at all, and is great!
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I am presently remodeling a 160 year old house. Upon removing some of the rotting floor boards we discovered we needed to replace the majority of the floor joists in one area also. The old joists were 3x10 and not fastened to the beam that runs around the perimeter, just notched and sitting on top. Made periotic leveling of the floors easy, just shim at beam. Any ideas on how I should replace these. I thought about doubling 2x10's and notching just like originals, 24" centers. Or 2x10 16" centers and fastening to the beams. Which would be better or any other suggestions appreciated.