my old pocket door has stripped from two screws that hang it to the slider. It is impossible to get those screws back in. unless I drilled some holes from the ceiling,which I haven’t looked into yet. Any suggestions…………………………..RTC
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Usually you can access the slide mechanism if you remove the door casing and upper split jamb. To remove the door, you'll have to remove all the jambs, and consequently, all the casing to get the door out. Basically just a trim job. When you put it back, be sure and use nails that don't penetrate into the door area.
When you put it back, be sure and use nails that don't penetrate into the door area.
The next time I'm working near a pocket door, I'm going to put a big sign on either side that says "POCKET DOOR".
I'm painting a room that has chair rail and I notice a small gap between the chair rail and the wall. I remind myself to fix it later but I also remind myself that there's a pocket door and I'll need short nails.
The next day, I notice the gap again and start searching for studs. I can't find one. I take out a scratch awl and start poking holes looking for the "missing" studs. I'm starting to get irked after 1/2 dozen holes. That's when I remember again... POCKET DOOR. Doh!
No damage done, but it's not unlike me to start banging nails where they stud ought to be.
So, your advice is good. I just wanted to reiterate it because it is so very easy to forget.
-Don
I've missed the last few longer nails when changing them in my nail gun for pocket doors.
Its a lot of fun trying to pry a nailed pocket door loose.
Whether the pocket door is new or old, remove enough trim and casing to extricate the door.
Repair, reassemble.
May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
Some posters mention removing the casing...you should find that only the stops at one side need to come off. If the track is a J, then take the stop off the side where you can see the wheels (the door is swung out about 15 degrees to remove it). If the track is an inverted U then you will need to unscrew the retaining nut from the hanging hardware,and slip the hanger off the hangign bolt. Whatever you do, ensure thatyou use fatter/longer screws, because they (usually) go into the endgrain which has less holding power, ergo....
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
When I install pocket doors, I do it like you say, using stops to finish the opening .
But I've had to repair pocket doors where the installer set the jambs around the doors, making it a real PITA to repair.
what if I used gorrilla glue and shuved the screws back in?....................RTC
I don't think gorilla glue will hold the screws.
A structural epoxy might, but you're going to have to figure a way to keep the weight off them until the glue sets up.
how about adding some tooth picks to that gorilla gle as wedges...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I wouldn't try to take a gorilla's glue if I were you :)Piko gave you the right way to re-attach your slider hardware. It's not worth trying a shortcut and it's not very hard to pry off the stops on one side in order to get the door off. After you put the stops back on you can patch the cracks with caulk and a little paint an they'll be good as new.While you have the door off, check the roller wheels too. It's a good opportunity to replace them if they are worn around the axles and getting wobbly. You can find replacement rollers here:http://www.slide-co.com/prod9.asphttp://www.acox.com/ResPocket.htmBruceTEdited 7/22/2006 9:40 pm ET by BruceT999
Edited 7/22/2006 9:40 pm ET by BruceT999