OOPS! Six out of 24 doors damaged. How to fix? I’m running a punch list commercial interior finish out and came across a door system failure that caused venere on top face hingside of solid core doors to be bowed out from surface plain of the door by about 1/2″. So you have a chunk of the venere about the size of your hand on the top of the door on the face thats been partially torn loose. Definat delamination of the venere and small hairline cracks where the bulging out damaged area meets the undamaged area. Fixed concealed closure action failure by putting small rubber block up into header and attaching it with self tapping screw through aluminum header and into steel backer plate. Now doors don’t swing too far and tear up the face of the venere. Is there anyway to try and salvage the doors. They don’t look too bad because the damage is up top and away from the human eye, but bulge and cracks definatly have to go. I can cover up the cracks, but what type of adhesive,glue,epoxy ect. would I use to try to get venere to again lay flat and stick to solid core material.
I’m good at framing, swinging, and hardwareing doors but this is getting past me. Any comments on possible techniques and or fixes, or guidance from those of you who have done that, been there, sure would be appreciated. Sure don’t want to tell custumer he’s got to buy half a dozen new doors.
Punch List Man-Dallas,Tx.
Replies
I'd use yellow glue and clamp the veneer down using a solid block. There are people who do repairs like that for a living. You can ask a moving company for a recommendation since they frequently have to repair damage to customers furniture. Ask about this over at knots for more answers.
More info.
Painted or stained/ clear finish?
Why "Now doors don't swing too far and tear up the face of the venere. " What's keeping them from swinging? or is is the "too far" that no longer happens?
Is it the very thin layer of veneer (1/32") that has delaminated or the door skin (1/8") that has delaminated?
Does the delamination begin at the door edge/ corner?
It's the skin of the door . The skin has been peeled away from the top corner outside edge.
As Mark wrote, use yellow glue and be sure to clamp down with a block larger than the damaged area. Getting the glue into the space will be difficult. You can use gravity and let lots of yellow glue flow into the damaged area, or you can use an air attachment on your compressor hose to blow it in, or you can use a syringe from a surgical supply house to inject the yellow glue. Get a large diameter needle though. Yellow glue is too thick to flow through an insuline needle.
Be sure to use a peice of newspaper or thin sheet of plastic to act as a release so the block does not get glued to the door face.
"use newspaper or a thin sheet of plastic"
Wax paper works good too.Jules Quaver for President 2004
If you intend to paint afterwards the wax continues to act as a release for the paint. Not good. Sure you'll sand before painting but why take the chance? Plus there's always plenty of newspaper around.
Woodworking stores sell glue syringes, or go ask a veterinerian for a trashed needle. Be careful using yellow glue if the doors have not been stained/sealed yet, as the glue could wick through the veneer and prevent the finish from going on properly.
Good points, except for the vet trashed needles. That won't happen. Something to do with bodoly fluids and/ or liability/ malpractice. However you are on the right track concerning needle size. Vet do use larger diameter needles than people Dr.s.
Edited 1/6/2003 8:36:09 AM ET by Frankie