Replies

1. 
   Mike_Maines_ | Feb 15, 2002 08:22pm | #1

   *
   J, first, please hit your cap lock button, as all caps is considered shouting. Now, what kind of carpentry experience do you have? What kind of joinery do you want to use? How often will the ladder be used? You can build it any way you want, but the more info you give the easier it is to give advice....

   If I was building it I might house the treads in the stringer with a dado, join with screws, then add another board to make a built-up stringer that hides the screws. Make the whole thing as one piece and put it as far away from the wall as you want.

   The tricky thing with ladder stairs is the railing.

1. 
   Schelling_McKinley | Feb 15, 2002 08:29pm | #2

   *If you know how to build a set of stairs with risers, there is really very little difference. The treads will need to be thicker, because risers add very considerably to the strength of the tread. Of course, if you don't know much about building stairs at all, there are many more pitfalls which apply to all sets of stairs.

1. 
   Stan_Foster | Feb 16, 2002 02:40am | #3

   *J: Heres an open riser stairs that I built. The treads are 1.75 inches thick and mortised into the stringers. It is real easy to do with a pattern following router bit.Check your local codes as you may need a divider between the treads to pass the 4 inch sphere rule.

1. 
   Mike_Maines_ | Feb 16, 2002 02:54am | #4

   *Nice Stan. Are those one-piece stringers? How did you affix the treads?Looks like birch?

1. 
   Cloud_Hidden | Feb 16, 2002 03:19am | #5

   *I did exactly the same design as Stan (won't claim comparable execution) 20 years ago, but w/o that type of railing. It was be/t two walls, so I could attach railings to the walls. Made it a lot easier.My stair was 2 x 12 mahagony w/ mahagony treads already nosed. Straightforward router work w/ template and measuring 20 times before cutting. I had to preassemble it and lift it into place between the walls. Worked alone be/c my brother stood me up. First go-around, almost had it in place when the stringers separated a bit, then a bit more, and then the treads tumbled down on my head. Thought I was gonna die. Young and foolish at the time, so I ignored the groove in my head and tried again and it worked. Later had to secure the middle tread to keep the stringers from bowing enough to let the treads out again.If I remember, the 2" x 12" x 16' stringers were $75 each back then and I carried each one the 1/2 mile from the milling shop be/c they were too awkward for my Corolla. Memories...

2. 
   Stan_Foster | Feb 16, 2002 03:59am | #6

   *Mike: The oak stringers were 3 3/16 inches thick. I routed a 5/4 x 12 stringer to receive the treads. I screwed the stringer to the treads, and then made 5/4 pockets for the balusters to go into. This was then capped off with another 5/4 x 12 oak that was glued and clamped to the other 5/4 with the baluster pockets. The underside also had a solid 5/4 piece put between the inside and outside 5/4 x 12 boards making this stringer look like it was a fill 3 3/16 inches thick. Heres another view from the top.

3. 
   J_ALDEN | Feb 16, 2002 04:16am | #7

   *See that, learn something ... I need to learn to type also. Stan nice work. Some more info, between two walls 32" wide (love that grandfather clause)wanted to stay off the walls. Thought it would look cleaner w/o mopboards. Not sure how to size/build the stringers, two spaced at 20" ?. Fin floor to fin floor (landing) 88" run 104 +/- 2" 11 treads. I'll check w/ the village on the sphere but how about a cleat on the end of the tread ?

2. 
   J_ALDEN | Feb 16, 2002 04:16am | #8

   *
   I NEED TO BUILD OPEN RISER STAIRS GOING UP TO A LOFT. THEY WILL BE DIRECTLY OVER ANOTHER SET OF CONVENTIONAL STAIRS SO THEY WILL BE VISABLE FROM THE UNDERSIDE. I WOULD LIKE TO BUILD OAK STRINGERS AND USE OAK TREADS. SHOULD THE STRINGERS BE SOLID OR LAMINATED? CAN THE TREADS STAY SHY OF TOUCHING THE WALLS (1/2")? ANY ADVISE OR PITFALLS TO BE AWARE OF IS APPRECIATED.