Replies

1. 
   DanH | Dec 05, 2015 09:16am | #1

   28 feet (14 foot sections) is about as tall as a mortal human can handle, single-handed, simply because your effective reach is only about 7 feet.  Some here speak of using taller ones, but they're superhuman. 

   And I had a 28 for years and finally switched to a 24 to make it easier to handle.

1. 
   jimmiem | Dec 05, 2015 09:29am | #2

   DanH

   Thank You.  I've also got a 24 footer.  It'll reach most of what I have to get to.....gutters to clean the leaves, but it's kind of light and bouncy when extended.  The bigger ladder is a lot more comfortable to work from.  I used to be able to handle the longer ladders better, but I've lost weight (and muscle?) and the 30 footer can almost pull me over when I stand it straight up to extend it.  Good point on the reach.  I used to use the rope to extend the ladder but I have seen the pros just push the extension up with their hands.

2. 
   deadnuts | Dec 05, 2015 10:00am | #3

   check the rating

   Ladders have duty ratings. If you want heavy duty performance, then get one that is in the heavy duty Class 1 range (250-375). An extention ladder doesn't have to be long in order to be heavy. My guess is that you've been working with a Class 2 or even 3 (homeowner grade) extenstion ladder. Our most common "go to" size for working most residential jobs is a 24' Class 1A.

   Personally, I would never cut down an extension ladder. If it's not working for you, my advice is to sell it on Craigslist and put that money towards the one you need.

1. 
   jimmiem | Dec 05, 2015 10:57am | #4

   Rating

   It's a Type II (225 lbs).  I only weigh 145 lbs.  Not hauling heavy tools....can of paint or hammer.   I shortened both sections the same amount and upper section slides inside the rails of the lower section.  I've heard the comment about not shortening a ladder before but nobody has ever explained what type of problem this could cause.  I'm not violating the overlap guidelines when I extend it......more than enough overlap for the height I need to get to.

1. 
   deadnuts | Dec 05, 2015 01:49pm | #5

   You're the one who complained about your Type 2 being "bouncy". It's not only your weight load vs. capcacity that is a factor contributing to that bounce. It's also a matter of how the ladder is made. I believe this would most apparent in the guage and size of rail extrusions or fiberglass sections. The type I ladders are built  much more substantially in order to increase load capacity. This heavier beam profile will also naturally limit deflection; particularly with just your skinny butt on it .

   Also, keep in mind that ladders are used for scaffolding, not just scaling. When they are used in combination with ladder jacks, walkboards, material and mulitiple people, that weight rating can quickly be eaten up.

1. 
   jimmiem | Dec 05, 2015 03:28pm | #6

   Ladder Type

   The "bouncy" 24 footer is a Type III (200 lbs).  The Type II (225 lbs) is not bouncy.  I had bought the 24 footer when I was living in a 1 story house.