I have attached a picture of the wraparound porch I am building on my house. It is 10′ all the way around. Ceiling height is 9′. Total square footage of porch is 2400′. Front and back is cantilevered from the trusses. The two sides are attached “trusses” engineered for this purpose. They will have to be supported by a column and beam (?) To get the full 10′ I have taken the stamped concrete porch to the drip edge (will have guttering.)
1) What kind of material would you use for the ceiling?
2) Since I have to have a beam on the two sides, therefore the front as well for aesthetics, would the beam look best being a 2×12 box (tall) or a shorter 2×6 box?
I know everyone likes to hear that cost is not an object, but this porch has cost me a bundle.
Thanks for any advice.
Replies
I'm renovating a 600 sq ft porch that I thought was ginormous, so I can't even image what yours is costing. Mine is 10ft deep on the front, and there is an original 12" deep box beam all around that I was able to save - it looks great. The ceiling is t&g fir beadboard. You might want to study local custom - around here, I'm told that to be truly authentic I would paint the ceiling sky blue (I'm not doing it!).
I attached an old picture from the early days of the project.
Legend has it that the sky blue ceiling somehow 'tricks' the bugs, and keeps them away. I'd like to see the test data...
At least that last tree missed your porch...
Test data-Every porch with skly blue cieling around here has almost no bugs and absolutely no cobwebs. Cielings of other colours have plenty of bugs, but mostly trapped in cobwebs.There ya go!
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I like the T&G Beadboard. Cost you couple $$$.
That's what my 1904 Victorian has on the porch ceiling, looks great.
It's painted white, have seen the "light powder blue" look, but TW said no way.
The beadboard on mine is in tough shape but I'm going to try to salvage it - when I priced out replacing it, it was going to cost more than the Ipe I used on the floor.
Corey - that one tree missed, but there's another just waiting for me to finish before it falls!
Let's see, 600 sqft, need 2400 lineal feet of 1x4 (3" W. net) beadboard at $0.80/LF
Ooohhh.......that's $1,920, plus tax, delivery, install,...etc....
That's say approx. $4.00 - $4.50 / sqft installed
At least it's primed.
That's for your porch, may calculator doesn't go high enough for the big porch.
It's time consuming, but simple to install, and well worth it. I love the look, it has character(put a price on that).
On the old 1904, they used it for the skirting around the house also. It was milled out of Redwood. It sure is holding up well for 100 years+
I have attached a picture of where the house is right now. It will be country style, siding, shingles, intended to look very friendly.
I am leaning towards beadboard, but it seems very expensive whatever kind I get.
I wonder if the beadboard plywood would work painted white? I would have seams since my porch is 10'.
Sky blue paint is so wasps won't build nests on it. You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
maybe you can special order the bb sheets in 10 ft lengths?
I think it would look fine painted white (or skyblue! 2 comments linking that color to insects ... I never would have thought of that - wonder if there's any truth to it or if it's an old wives tale?)
maybe you can special order the bb sheets in 10 ft lengths?
Even in 10' lengths, isn't it going to be running in the wrong direction? Haven't worked with the stuff in months, but don't the strips run the 8' direction?? (I can't remember). Whereas for porch roofs, don't the strips run the length of the porch (not the porch depth)?
Geeze, I'm getting senile. Can't remember anything.
We will have to wait and see if we get any other responses, but it seems like someone makes an engineered beadbord product. Maybe something like Trex? Someone get Calvin's attention, he might know.
As someone else mentioned, you could take strips of 1x2 (or somesuch) to cover up the seams. With the right dimensions, it might look like a feature rather than an attempt to cover up the seams. But if its going to be outside, I'd sure want that sucker painted front and back REALLY well or it won't hold up very long.jt8
The reason so many people never get anywhere in life is because when opportunity knocks, they are out in the backyard looking for four-leaf clovers.-- Walter Percy Chrysler
On my old porch they run in the 10' direction. One engineered product I know of is Azek, which would be nice (if you want white) but I bet no cheaper than fir.
Azek is paintable, though they recommend no hot or dark colours
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whardy,
This is the only application I like for vinyl. Certainteed makes a few different beaded styles that also come in colors. Strip out on 12" centers so it won't sag. Run crown instead of J channel. You still have to run H on the diagonals unless you fake a beam.Think about scraping and painting this when you're 60.KK
Check with the company tyhat made your trusses - You may not need a beam out there at all. We routinely cantilever trusses out over porches.
That might give you some more design options, if you don't need structural posts and beams.
What is the style of your house going to be? Siding, roofing and overall scheme. Beadboard works well with most styles. It can be simulated with beadboard panels to reduce cost but individual pieces look the best. We have also used rough sawn plywood (smooth) and used battens to create a pattern that covers the seams.
Owen Roberts Group
10634 East Riverside Drive # 100
Bothell, WA 98011
http://www.owenrobertsgroup.com
When I built my Craftsman style home I splurged on expensive materials where they would add to the appearance -- hand made tile, copper roof, cherry cabinets, zebrawood countertop, and so forth. For the porch, however, it was a bargain. I used 3/8" plywood with grooves to simulate beadboard. The surface was fairly rough, but with stone columns and a western red cedar door I made it really fit in well. And it was cheap. I finished the wood with one coat of Woodlife preservative front and back, then a light colonial blue flat mildew resistant paint. I lived in the house for 3 years before a job move forced me to sell, but it held up great then.
I chose blue because it was traditional, and I did find that wasps built nest all over the house under the eaves except on the porch.
Here's the only picture I have looking up at the porch ceiling, but it isn't a very good one.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=35025.3
two good options that I know of
1. t and g fir that everyone is talking about. crown around the perimeter. Finish clear, looks great.
2. MDO Plywood with 1x6 or 1x4 covering the perimeter and the seems. then run og inside of all of the trim. your basic shadow box application. can be done with azek, or any other grade of wood.
That gives me plenty to think about. It looks like it is going to be expensive however I go. Several people told me how expensive a wraparound porch would be and they are right. 28 dump truck loads of sand, lots of steel, special trusses, railing, etc., all adds up. It is looking like about $40sf.
Thanks for all the help. I'll keep checking back for more ideas...