I am refinishing the doors of our 1988 vintage house here in Anchorage. They were originally clear doors and varnished.
Discussion Forum
I noticed a ‘blue stain’ in one corner of the door—a bottom corner which receives more punishment from the weather that the upper corners.
I sanded and I sanded— then I realized that the stain was spreading!!— and realized it was not the clear grain I expected– but another wood type beneath.
The door has a VERY VERY thin veneer of some sort– looked to be clear grain — and I sanded right thru.
It is VERY thin— almost like it was a liquid applied— is this possible and if so—- can I replace this top “veneer” layer?? And then carry on with varnishing?
Thanks very much for your help– Rick
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Traditional lime wash still has tons of useful applications.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Rick
By making the thin veneers, door companies are able to get many more miles of stimulated wood finishes that make their products look like solid wood.
more than likely the veneer is real. Of course you could re-veneer, but you'll leave yourself open to it lifting later on (if an exterior door.
Perhaps the fix most easy would be a gel stain of a different color, which would lay on rather than soak in and show the original grain.
Yes-- exterior
Calvin-- yes it is an exterior door.
Well, the "nice grain" you
Well, the "nice grain" you see in the top corner is after you've sanded away enough of the veneer to just begin to show the dark glue holding it to the wood underneath, so it "brings out the grain". Sand any further and you will have the "staining" you were trying to eliminate. (And, yes, the veneer IS that thin.
Yeah, using a gel "stain" is probably your best bet here. It is effectively a sort of paint that, when worked with the brush, takes on the appearance of wood grain. If you're lucky you can get it to do the job just on the lower corner and still stain/varnish the rest to match, but you'll likely need to do the whole door with the stuff to get an even finish.
It is theoretically possible to reveneer the door, but veneering is a skill that takes at least a modest amount of special equipment and is not quickly learned. (But if you want to try there are several outfits such as Rockler that sell the supplies and some instruction books.)
Ah--- so the blue color-- which increases in area as I sand away-- is the glue!
I'm going to investigate 'gel stains' as I have never used them.
Before I removed the door I made a secure, temporary one. Up here in the fall the bears start to prep for winter-- and they will enter homes looking for a free meal! So --- considering the temp bear 'proof' door--- i can take the time to do this right.
Funny, there must be something in the air. A neighbor of mine came to me the other day with this exact same problem on a fir door. I'm going to help him fix his door... no big deal for me, really. But I've done veneer work for many years and have all the tools and equipment. I'm not in Anchorage. Used to be, but not anymore. Not going back.
I think to attempt a stain job on this would be more difficult than to fix the veneer. Plus, with stain you will have to go to something dark... like the underlying blue or dark glue you see. Even then, you will see mottling. Gel stain only works because it makes such a muddy look that all blends together.
Either repair using a new strip of veneer or a layer of thin wood. You could remove an eighth inch layer of the rail or stile (I can't tell which from the small photo) then glue back a new thin board. The advantage of using a thin board over veneer is that it can be more easily clamped into place with uniform pressure. There are custom shops in Anchorage who can resaw a piece of fir to the thickness you need. I recommend that you visit Hardware Specialties on W 54th street and ask them for names of shops and craftsmen who can help. They also sell veneer if you want to go that route.
This fix isn't really all that difficult, but it's one that can be bodged up fairly easily.
What is better?
Please--- where are you now? What could be better than Anchorage?? (ha ha).
Hmm-- your comments on the stain concern me. This is a patio type door-- mostly glass-- and it has a 'fixed neighbor --- like the new picture--- and I think it would look wierd javing one stained and one not. I will consider the thin slab of wood route too.
I'd give the gel stain a shot before giving up. Understand that it's essentially opaque, so you can "correct" the color of the damaged area.
+1
Paint
To all---
I painted the doors 2 years ago-- a burnt red color. Looks GREAT.
Thanks for the help.
Later----- Rick