Options for insulating lath and plaster?
rasher
| Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on
I have one exterior wall (10′ long, 10′ tall) I’ve torn the plaster off of down to the lath. 2×4 (full dimension) studs, 1×6 wood sheathing, old felt paper, and lap board siding is the construction. I was thinking of buying a small container of slow-rise Tiger Foam and filling up the wall prior to installing drywall over existing lath so that I could get an idea of how it fills (prior to doing the rest of the house which will be via holes drilled in good walls). Is this possible or would it expand out the wall between the lath?
If that doesn’t work, what would be another approach?
Thanks.
Replies
Greetings rasher,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
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Let's run this thru one more time.
bump
Foam is probably the best option from an insulation standpoint, but is several times the cost of alternatives. It has the advantage of totally sealing air/moisture flow through the walls. Filling wall cavities with it is something I, personally, would leave to a pro. And at over $10/ cu. ft. for Tiger Foam, I would be very surprised if you could save much, if any, $$ by doing it yourself. For example, your test wall, at just over 26 cu. ft., will require you to purchase $600+ worth of foam kit(s).
I've used blown-in celulose for filling wall cavities with great success. It doesn't cost all that much more to hire someone to do it, and their equipment is way better than the rental stuff.
I'm surprised more folks haven't responded to this Q.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
I think for this little project, I'm just going to cut 3" rigid insulation and spray foam it in. I ended up tearing out the lath so do some framing work, so I don't have it to hold in any "blown in" or "sprayed in" options any more.The Tiger Foam really is criminally expensive, isn't it?
If the cavity is open, foaming in rigid is a great option. (Other than I always end up sticky for days after doing it, LOL! You think I'd learn to cover up.) Still, for the rest of the building, I'd think about blowing cells.
Yeah, I'm sure if there was some way to cut the cost of DIY foam to about 1/2, it would sell like hotcakes.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
That Federal Tax credit for insulation just isn't enough to make spray foam worth it yet... Spray Foam, PV Solar Cells, its all the same: if it were half the price, they'd sell 10 times more.The rest of the interior walls on the ground floor of the house are in good shape, whereas most of my siding is trash, so at some point in time, I'll have the ability to easily tear off the exterior siding, dense-pack cells, asphalt paper, and new hardi-plank.