I have OSB in my downstairs area in my house and I am wanting it to look like sheetrock. I wanted to fill in the seams with joint compund, then put 3M flashing tape over it, then prime the walls with Kilz primer, then put a real thick coat of joint compound all over the walls with a textured roller to give it a textured look. Do you think this process would work, or should I use plaster instead of joint compund? I want something on the walls that won’t crack. My dad told me to use caulk in the seams, but my husband does not want to use caulk. He said we had too much to fill in to use caulk. I thought the flashing tape would be good because it would really stick to the OSB board really good.
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If, the osb is actually exterior rated (in regards to moisture) what you propose might work. I’ve professionally finished and repaired a whole lot of drywall and plaster and understand a lot of its properties, conditions, prep, etc. So, not having tried to coat it with joint compound…….I don’t know.
However, priming ext grade osb might allow compound to stick and not fall off of , nor crack at the seams.. I’d forget the flashing tape and use some peel and stick fiberglass tape like fibafuse. That might stick using Durabond as the compound first coat. Durabond dries real hard, not like regular joint compound, so be aware of that and study the application. You will not be sanding it smooth (easily).
Google what we used to call “ wallpaper liner.” We have used this on some hairline cracked plaster, in order to fully “tape” the walls/ceilings before finishing. A paper hanger installed the liner. We skimmed over it.
The other unknown for me in your application is the moisture and temperature difference in your “osb” walls. Will the differences in temp and moisture move that unsealed surface on the backside?
Depending on what this job looks like one would sure be tempted to Sheetrock over it and have a successful finish with potentially less work.
Calvin,
thanks for your comments. You really sound knowledgeable. I appreciate yout advice and will consider what you said.
I’ve built 3 studios with OSB on the interior walls, so they could hold a lot of nails. In 2 cases my clients wanted finished walls. I hung dry wall, taped and finished it. I never even considered what you propose. You could avoid the cost of the rock but if your time is worth anything that’s a bad choice.
Mike,
Thanks for the input. It is about the cost why my husband wanted to do it the way I described.
Use 1/4 inch drywall and go over the OSB. Trying to dress up the OSB with a skim coat and getting the seams not to show is asking for problems.
As for cost it's not going to cost you all that more to use drywall. If you try to re-use the OSB, you still need to buy paint tape and drywall compound and you run the risk that it either doesnt bond well or it doesnt look good when you are done. You will definitely need BIN primer as the tanins will bleed through the OSB.
Just do the job properly. The added cost of the drwall will be minimal
Thanks for the comment Steve. I think me and my husband have decided to do what you guys are talking about. We are going to just do the drywall or we are even thinking about paneling. Thanks so much for your input.
Apply 1/4" drywall.
Use a bit of PL Premium (29 oz tubes is so much cheaper) and a few screws.
stagger joints so they don't sync with OSB joints.
Install drywall panels opposite to orientation of OSB panels.
Cheapest. Easiest. Fastest. Best result. Done.
Frankie
Thanks for the positive response to this article. You can also use curtains for the OSB for interior walls in a house.
Thanks for the comment Frankie.