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I wouldn't. I use a simple butt joint with one board cut flush with the wall corner, the other running past. Plane or use a router to get a real nice cut on the shorter board and the joint disappears. The seasonal movement will have a negligible (okay, YOU guys try to spell that) effect, but the corner can take far more abuse than a mitered corner.
The longer I mess around with carpentry, the fewer miters I use. Just don't like them.
Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim,
Thanks for the advice, what if the bead falls near the corner? should I lay it out so that I get a flush outside corner with no bead?
I like to start at the outside corner and go both ways away from it. But you are thinking about the right problems. Take as much time as you need to think it through and lay it out ahead of time, you'll be okay.
That tip about using a dowel at the corner, I guess that would work okay for paint grade, but pretty hard to find fir dowells that small. Hemlock or knotty pine either. I guess you could make them, but that's a lot of messing around. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
right. I don't remember if the author talked about stain-grade or not...
just say no to miters<G>and flush is a dirty word...celebrate the reveals! I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
"...celebrate the reveals!"
Revel in them.
Where the F*rd have you been? Fishing? Cooking up any tasties? Start building that new house yet?Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
No fishing, dang it...but I can buy it<G> gonna smoke up some bluefish sur cedar siding tonight...ohhh babyHouse fell thru...they went modular! Only 40,000 beans cheaper?! Nice addition on the drawing board, and a semi- "sustainable" spec in the wings, I hope..Heading for da Bahamas in a month, 30th anniversary...gotta go try out my new moustach mask in the tub...glub, glub<G>...now, back to your regularly schedualed program... I need a dump truck, baby, to unload my head
I remember reading an article somewhere where the installer cut the two beadboard panels short at the corner, and used a dowel to fill the gap. The radius of the dowel matched the radius of the bead, so it looked like a seamless turn 'round the corner.
Article was maybe in FHB a few months ago? Don't think it was TOH, and those are the only two building/remodeling related pubs I read...
torn,
I remeber reading that same article it was in fine home building, but I cant rember which issue, does any one know?
Tips and Techniques - issue 176Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
As Jimb said, and take a 1/4" beading bit and use it from both sides to make a bead on the corner...Might be a bit delicate however.
Bud
The times I've done this, I go ahead a miter & biscuit & glue the corners in the shop, then start at the corners - I build them with a tongue going both ways, of course.
Forrest
Sorry, but as for the but/lap joint on an aoutside corner standing up to more abuse really isnt the issue here. Its about craftmanship here, and anyone banging the #$%t out of the outside corner of the wainscotting shouldnt be living in that house lol
Go with the mitred corner working your lay-out from the outside in.'The Jamar Hammer'
Hey Forrest - I'm having a hard time visualizing a mitered and biscuited joint with 5/16" thick material. Could you explain how you do that? Thanks.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I use my little Ryobi DBJ-50 biscuit joiner (I had to look at the model#), and R1, R2, or R3 size biscuits. It's a handy tool for edge joining thin stuff.
Forrest
To every one who has offered there professional advice, on outside bead board corners , I thank you all, there all great ideas. I ha vent decided which one I'm going to use yet. Ill see which one works best at the job site. Ill report back with results in a few weeks. bytheway the customer wants to stain the bead board.
thanks
I need ideas on how to finish outside corners.
OK, here's my 2 cents:
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I mitered these at a 45, cut right at the edge of where the bead begins so it's a full-width board on either side of the corner. Glued and nailed. Installed the outside corner pieces first and worked toward the inside corners from there.
Personally I like the miter look in this application, very neat and doesn't disrupt the pattern. Seems plenty strong to me (we have a four year old who uses this bathroom all the time) but I guess time will tell.
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Do what Jim said and lay it out before you do so that you have a full face reveal on both sides. Start from the outside corner and work from there and as mentioned leave the tongue showing going both ways so you have the proper nailing.
We did some kitchen cabinets with bead board, kind of an old country style. For the outside corners we made some 1/2x1/2" quarter round on the router table from doug fir (same as the bead board) We started from the corners and set the starters far enought back to accomidate the 1/4 round. We glued and bradded the moulding pieces in. It looks nice, and other than making our own moulding, was quick and simple to do.