Replies

1. 
   Dinosaur | Apr 29, 2006 06:39am | #1

   You will probably find trying to cut and assemble beveled rips on 5/16" beadboard a very frustrating experience. That is not the best quality stuff out there, and almost certainly is (or will be) cupped more than enough to throw the bevel angle all to heck.

   Another alternative to outside moulding would be a rabbeted corner post cut to stand just a tad proud of the face of the beadboarding, but I'd recommend you just do simple butts instead. Use a planer blade on the TS and you'll get a nice smooth edge cut that will look fine. Unless you have a headless pinner, it wouldn't be a good idea to try to nail the joint. Just butt them nice and tight and you should be okay. You can always sand the lapping board flush with the butted one after the install is done.

   One last bit of advice: plan the layout so you don't wind up with a bead right at one of those corners.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

2. 
   DonK | Apr 29, 2006 06:40am | #2

   I've seen people spend serious amounts of time doing 45s on long outside corners. In many cases, it's not the best or most efficient way to handle them. Even the quality of the lumber today makes this an iffy proposition. Put it together today and come back tomorrow, after the weather changes and you swear the wood is different from what you put up.

   With wainscotting, I think in keeping with the style, etc, a lap joint on the corner would be better. You will see one side that has been cut, but it's not edge grain like you get with a window sill for example. A sharp plane helps a great deal. Is this going to be painted or stained?

   A second thought would be to use fancy cornerguards. The ones I refer to are circular, like clothes poles, with 1/4 of the circle removed to fit over the outside corner. They normally have a fancy turned top and bottom and make a nice accent piece. IIRC, they are usually ~5' high, so you might have to finagle to get the right size with the fancies on the top and the bottom, depending on how high your wall is.

   Don K.

   EJG Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

3. 
   andybuildz | Apr 29, 2006 07:12am | #3

   look in an architectual molding catologue. Its just a matter of taste cause the skies the limit. Forget the 45 deg idea though cause like Don says it'd have a very good chance of separating(you could use some PL Premium glue if you insist though) and it'd be just a sharp corner which IMO ain't all that attractive.....but like I said, its just a matter of taste.
   Have fun
   a...

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4. 
   JeffBuck | Apr 29, 2006 09:09am | #4

   I love beadboard wainscot.

   my trademark is the outside corner ... I'll take the time necessary to miter the bead.

   get the exact center of a bead ... then wrap it around the corner. Probably no one but me notices ... till I point it out to everyone ... but it just makes me smile.

   when there's 2 outside corners ... either pick the most obvious ... of ya just gotta split it somewhere else.

   But it's not much of a problem with a good table saw. Just sneak up on it. I also shoot for a full wrap coming out of the obvious inside corners too.

   another way to get it done w/o a miter is to rip the board and leave the bead ... sand that round ... and start the next piece with a flat next to that bead.

   Jeff

       Buck Construction

    Artistry In Carpentry

        Pittsburgh Pa

1. 
   1plus1design | May 31, 2006 04:55pm | #5

   Depending on the material and the application I approach detailing the corners differently. The outside corners are the first to show wear and get damaged. Recently I have been using 1/2" mdf bead board for paneling. These panels are attached directly to the studs. Therefore plaster stops are installed at the topside of where the panel is going to terminate. This keeps the bead board flush with the drywall above. Since the mdf panel is easily dinged up on especially on the outside corners I detail a 3" corner guard that is made up of a planed down 3/4" poplar board and mitered with biscuits to reinforce the joint from opening. These are premade in the shop in 8' lengths and cut in the field prior to the bead board installation. The top rail and cap are then applied over the wall panel. The rail is often made from matching window apron or casing material if appropriate.<!----><!----><!---->