Replies

1. 
   GregGibson | Nov 12, 2009 06:33pm | #1

   I had the exact same code from a Kenmore Double Wall Oven, so that tells me that my Kenmore was probably made by GE.  I had the schematic diagram with the fault-code translation.  Your paperwork is probably stuffed in a corner of the oven, behind the circuit board.

   The F7 code, as I remember, was a circuit board fault.  I ordered a new circuit board form Sears, it was over $400 as I remember.  This was a few years ago - it weorked for a few months, then it hit the same trouble code.  Rather than spending more money on a 7 or 8 year old appliance, I wound up scrapping it.

   F7, I remember it well.  I hate that code !  The oven would start to flash that code in the middle of the night, and it also has an audible beep that came along with it.  I could flip the breaker off and back on, and it would stop for 2 to 4 weeks, but it always returned.

   Greg

1. 
   REempire | Nov 12, 2009 07:27pm | #2

   Sounds like my exact problem, Greg.

2. 
   fingersandtoes | Nov 12, 2009 08:18pm | #3

   Whose genius idea was it to computerize the controls of appliances such as wall ovens when knobs worked just as well?

2. 
   junkhound | Nov 12, 2009 08:27pm | #4

   I have repaired a number of similar appliances, primarily induction cooktops where a hot pan set on the wrong spot destroys the control pad pretty quick.  Like an earlier poster said, what genius figured out this self destruct mechanism??

   Every time the problem was that heat had deteriorated the silk screened on mylar carbon coductors that form the 'wire' that connects the touch pad 'switches' to the programable logic array (PLA) that controls temperature, etc.  A common failure point on microwave ovens also, but not so severe since the microwaves do not get as hot.

   It is an 'easy' mechanical job to do the fix, but the schematics are "non-obtainium" (I HAVE tried for Kemmore, GE, and Panasonic, no luck, Sears repair shops do not even have the detailed board schematics, only board interconnect diagrams) for the details. 

   The hard part of the job was 'reverse engineering' the circuitry and the PLA layout to figure how to throw away the mylar sheet switches and replace them with hard wired microswitches. 

   Good luck. 

   BTW, cycling the breaker works since the PLA is then reset, kinda like rebooting your computer.  Then when the oven gets hot again, the 'switch' shorts and gives the error message, ad infinitum. 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/12/2009 12:29 pm ET by junkhound

1. 
   REempire | Nov 12, 2009 08:32pm | #5

   Thanks for taking the time to reply.

2. 
   atrident | Nov 12, 2009 11:16pm | #8

      How about using some of that conductive paint used to repair rear defroster windows in a car. I think Loctite makes some and its available at auot parts stores. Should be able to handle the current.

3. 
   DanH | Nov 13, 2009 04:24am | #9

   I've successfully repaired the flex circuits in computer keyboards using the conductive paint sold for printed circuit repair. (Keyboards get got when you spill pop in them. The acid in the drinks eats away the circuit traces.)
   A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

1. 
   Sphere | Nov 13, 2009 04:36am | #10

   On a similar note....did you know that if you dump Mtn. Dew in mortar , after a few weeks the mortar decays away?

   You do now.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

1. 
   fingersandtoes | Nov 13, 2009 08:12am | #11

   Come on. What possible excuse do you have for drinking that swill? Of all the liquids God and Man have put on earth - Mountain Dew?

1. 
   Sphere | Nov 13, 2009 01:40pm | #12

   I don't. Just heard it from the masons tender.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

3. 
   cabanillas3 | Nov 12, 2009 11:01pm | #6

   Go to http://www.applianceguru.com. There are a number of smart guys on the forum there, and if you check the FAQs there is one specifically devoted to error codes for appliances.

   And the parts there are cheaper than most places, and the return policies are good. I know, because I have to wrestle my fancy pants GE refrigerator to the ground and replace a part every two years or so, and this the place I check first.

   jose c.
   --
   "Though I don't think" added Deep Thought "that you're going to like it."
1. 
   REempire | Nov 12, 2009 11:12pm | #7

   Thanks.

4. 
   YesMaam27577 | Nov 13, 2009 04:51pm | #13

   I have a kenmore range that has a very similar problem. I've been waiting more than a month now, for the repair guys to find the necessary part.

   For the first week or so, we were resigned to not using the oven at all, since any keypad entry for the oven would send it to the "error" mode.

   But I noticed that my display was also indicating "DOOR LOCKED" or sometimes just "DOOR" (either of whioch was an incorrect indicator, since there was nothing up with the door.

   But I tried using the keypad to change the status of the door lock. And although my display is still SNAFU, the oven now works.

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

1. 
   REempire | Nov 13, 2009 06:30pm | #14

   Thanks for taking the time to reply.