Replies

1. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 24, 2002 01:06pm | #1

   *
   can always check with these guys. seem reasonable. http://www.aircondex.com/designlayout.html

   brian

1. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 24, 2002 01:29pm | #2

   *if you're still in the planning phase, you may want to check out this program and material. all free...http://www.aud.ucla.edu/heed/since you don't live in SoCal, see readme.usa in the download file to make this program applicable to your area.brian

1. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 24, 2002 02:21pm | #3

   *and here's a free demo to assist with design...http://www.wwwebworks.com/hvac/newfeatures.htmyour welcome,brian

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Feb 25, 2002 07:24pm | #4

   *Superinsulate... then bodyheat home. One warm body needed per 1000/sqft in a 4000degree heating area.near the warm stream,ajWarmboard looks great, costs a bit. Doing work yourself would make it affordable to me. Go high efficiency boiler or Polaris water heater. Go with fancy baseboards upstairs....radiant in all bathrooms, run bathrooms extra warm, possibly seperate zones... include towel warmer, mirror no fog heat with radiant loop. This heat system will have the least drying effect on your indoor air and will be better than scorched air heat.near the stream,aj

1. 
   Steve_Fabrizio | Feb 26, 2002 02:35am | #5

   *Aj what type of fancy baseboard are you talking about? Like a Runtal flat type?What type of high efficiency boilers have you had good luck with? My plumber is suggesting a Weil Mclein or Burnham. I have installed a lot of the Stadler climate Panel this year & it seems to be working pretty well , so instead of the warm board I may go that route, although I need to check out Wirsbro's product that is similar to the 1/2" climate panels, not sure if they make a fold out panel system though.How are the polaris water heaters anyway?Thanks for the info so far, keep it coming!

2. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Feb 27, 2002 08:34pm | #6

   *Burnham makes to 86% efficient models now that I like. One is direct vent avoiding the need for a chimney and chase. You would need a side of your home that is not used to vent to.Standard unit $1150Pressure unit $1550Plus all the rest of the parts needed. $3000 or so total.Near the stream,aj

3. 
   Jim_Coate | Feb 28, 2002 05:29am | #7

   *> You would need a side of your home that is not used to vent to. An entire side? I hope not... I was planning on the smaller Burnham direct vent gas unit (RV3 or RV4). I already have the vent in through the 18" granite block foundation wall with my (ex)plumbers blessing, so I'm hoping I don't need to move it.The vent is coming out a couple feet above snow-line, and 15+ feet from any openable windows which seemed to follow the specs. Is there something I'm missing?I be delurked.

4. 
   Tim_Rice | Feb 28, 2002 04:33pm | #8

   *Jim, your not missing anything. Most codes, that I know of require only a 10' separation between vents and intakes/windows. Some places have requirements for separation from walkways and the like."This heat system will have the least drying effect on your indoor air and will be better than scorched air heat." Nothing wrong with the heat system you described, AJ, but heat is heat and the statement above is not accurate.