Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jun 16, 2006 01:27pm | #1

   Getting painting to stick long-term to hard, non-porous surfaces (like steel or fiberglass) is challenging.  I always tell my customers this before I paint just in case they're OK with the "factory white".

   If it's already painted, be sure to sand the surface and completely remove any sheen to give the next layer some "bite".  Priming is not necessary, but can't hurt.

   If your're doing more than 1 door, I would get out a 1/4" nap roller for the flat spots.  A little floetrol might slow down drying so the brush and roller overlaps blend well.  Oh, and DO NOT paint in direct sun.

   -Don

2. 
   andybuildz | Jun 16, 2006 02:46pm | #2

   Ive heard some here say to sand steel doors but I prefere not to change the smooth surface "at all". I use a "liquid" sand product to simply dull the finish but keeps it very smooth. I've also used good oil primers tinted to the color I'm using on the top coat. I HAVE painted steel doors with no sanding prep at all with no problem using the tinted oil primer.I do the liquid "wash" just for added insurance and I always clean the doors before I paint anyway so... I use liquid sander or TSP cleaner which basically does the same thing. Its really your call. Its easy enough to liquid sand/clean so.....

   If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

   TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

1. 
   danz857 | Jun 16, 2006 03:02pm | #3

   Thanks for the tips, since the door is on the west side of the house, I plan to paint it after the sun goes  down, gonna sheet the entrance with plastic and paint inside the house. Thanks again, does anybody see any problems with using latex paint?

   Dan

1. 
   craigf | Jun 16, 2006 03:31pm | #4

   The tags on new steel doors suggest acrylic paint. However, pro painters I know have said they like to use oil. I'd like to hear more opinions myself.

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jun 16, 2006 04:02pm | #6

   I'm not a chemist, so take this with a grain of salt...

   I've read that oil molecules are smaller than water and will penetrate deeper and bond better to surfaces that are even a little porous.  If true, then it makes sense why bare wood should be primed with oil even beyond the usual reason of sealing tannins in woods like cedar.

   For already painted surfaces, like steel doors, I would follow the manufacturers directions.  By the way, when they say "acrylic", I interpret that to mean 100% acrylic because some cheaper paints do have some acrylic.

   And yes, a lot of painters still swear by oil, but due to VOC regulations, oil paints have been getting worse while latex has been getting better.  I don't know if they've crossed paths yet.

   -Don

1. 
   craigf | Jun 17, 2006 04:56pm | #8

   Thanks for the info.Yeah I do think the tags said 100% acrylic.

2. 
   etherhuffer | Jun 17, 2006 08:11pm | #9

   One I wanted to do but the wifey vetoed for no good reason: Have an auto paint shop spray the door. If they put on an epoxy sealer you can paint anything on top. I wanted a red door with pearl, which would have changed with the light. Even our house painter wanted to try it. Worth looking into.Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

3. 
   VaTom | Jun 17, 2006 09:28pm | #10

   Auto paint.  Now you're talkin'. 

   I've concluded that nothing else is worth the effort.  Expensive initially, but low lifespan cost.  Particularly when you factor in labor. 

   Our steel deck chairs are going Oldsmobile blue when I get around to it.  Just picked up another gallon of clear topcoat and hardener.  Our recently retired refrigerator is the same color.  Fast dry, easy to spray, long-lasting.  Large primer selection for any application.  No need of a spray booth, just a calm morning before the bugs get moving.  HVLP helps.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

4. 
   craigf | Jun 18, 2006 05:16am | #16

   An auto body guy told me to be careful with some auto paints because they are toxic. No symptoms until you get enough in your system, then you croak.Most auto body shops have supplied air systems.Maybe your paint isn't that type, but I'd hate to see you have problems.

5. 
   BoJangles | Jun 18, 2006 05:30am | #17

   I have spray painted dozens of doors with acrylic auto paint.  The doors on my own home were sprayed 20 years ago and look as good as the day I painted them.  Auto enamel  has ingredients that prevent fading and are generally much better paints than anything you can buy at the hardware store.

   I wipe down with Prep-Sol and then sand very lightly with 600 wet or dry.  I spray them with an HVLP gun system.

   You must beware of paints like Imron, as these are quite dangerous.  You must use a good respirator with any of these automobile paints.

6. 
   VaTom | Jun 18, 2006 06:16am | #18

   You must beware of paints like Imron, as these are quite dangerous.  You must use a good respirator with any of these automobile paints.

   Yup.  Another I looked at was boat hull paint.  Breathe it and die.  I passed up that opportunity, even with the correct respirator filter.  Only paint I've seen that absolutely won't grow mold.  Amazing stuff, incredibly expensive.

   Regarding spraying outdoors, there's little chance of solvent buildup there.  The finish isn't quite as good as a spray booth, but with good conditions, close.

   As Bo points out, there's a world of difference in lifespan between auto and general home paints.  Auto paints are usually easier to spray.  If I'm making the effort, I want that durability.  Used automotive clear coat to preserve the color of the copper skin I put on my exterior doors.  Worked extremely well.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

7. 
   craigf | Jun 18, 2006 04:17pm | #23

   Thanks for the info. I like to spray my doors. If I could find something safe, especially a clear coat, it would be an improvement over what I have been doing.

8. 
   etherhuffer | Jun 18, 2006 08:43pm | #24

   The door is a cheap Stanley steel prehung. The porthole came from Phillip Watts Design in England.(Its called 'Sputnik' and has insulated glass!)  I went to a local industrial supply and got a sheet metal hole cutter that goes on a drill. I punched out two guide holes through both sides, then cut out the circles. Then put in two through bolt holes and lined up the rest of them. The paint was oil base rollered on. Should have used auto acrylic. It would have been very "Pimp my Front Door". 

   I have actually thought I should have a cottage business using some of the local young kids who paint cars in the neighborhood. Who wants to be the first with one of those color-changing paints on their front door!?

   Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

   Edited 6/18/2006 1:48 pm by etherhuffer

9. 
   etherhuffer | Jun 18, 2006 08:49pm | #25

   Here is the link for the Malco cutter.    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000289542/103-0601414-3224647?v=glance&n=228013Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

10. 
    BillHartmann | Jun 18, 2006 09:54pm | #26

    You could do that with one of the companies that does in place office furniture and appliance refinishing.They use a wet electrostatic spray (verse the dry power coating).

11. 
    craigf | Jun 19, 2006 03:08pm | #27

    Cool way to dress up a door.

12. 
    craigf | Jun 18, 2006 05:07am | #14

    That would have been cool. Don't suppose she would have gone for flames either?

2. 
   andybuildz | Jun 16, 2006 04:02pm | #5

   No problem with latex at all. Thats what its there for. Oil may be better but not with much signifigance IMO. If you do use oil ise a quick drying type especially if you plan to leave the door upright when painting.
   If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

   TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

1. 
   toolpouchguy | Jun 18, 2006 05:14am | #15

   pro bloc from sherman williams with oil paint over

   have had many probs with latex and steel doors paint peel's off.  hate silly call back's like that so i think i found a soulution

    

1. 
   andybuildz | Jun 18, 2006 06:49am | #19

   yeh...BM has a primer like that too I used a lot when I used to do cabinet refacing.
   The paint would stick even to glass forever if you wanted to paint your windows over.If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!

   TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]

2. 
   etherhuffer | Jun 18, 2006 08:21am | #20

   Well, funny you should mention that! The door is bright red with stainless porthole. The key I got has flames! That way I can always remember which one it is, even after a few Czechvars or Pilsner Urquells!Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

   
3. 
   MarkH | Jun 18, 2006 02:30pm | #21

   That red pearl would have looked good, especially with gloss black trim with some nice pinstriping.  You can get away with a lot on an entry door like that.

4. 
   craigf | Jun 18, 2006 03:50pm | #22

   Did the porthole come with the door or was it added later?

3. 
   cargin | Jun 17, 2006 10:07pm | #11

   I would use oil based paint. Latex takes up to 2 weeks to cure or throughly dry. Any areas where the door will come into contact with weatherstrip or jamb, the paint is going to peel. Sometimes you can get a fresh latex paint to peel off in big sections.

   Rich

4. 
   Danusan11 | Jun 18, 2006 12:35am | #12

   The bugs at night like fresh paint

3. 
   DanH | Jun 16, 2006 04:06pm | #7

   Foam rollers. The small ones with very fine foam.

   If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
4. 
   trout | Jun 18, 2006 01:38am | #13

   I'd definitely sand the thing a bit, which saves from the soap and water.  Oxidized paint won't wash off and new paint doesn't stick to it well.

   For gosh sakes use a primer.  Primers stick better than paint, that's why we use them as the first coat.  Primers can be for just metal, just wood, or some are good for both.

   Personally, spraying smooth metal doors always looks 100% better than brush or rollers with oil or latex.  At the very least use a decent amount of flotrol for a smoother finish and sand off the high spots inbetween coats.

   Good painting