Replies

1. 
   calvin | Nov 17, 2014 11:36am | #1

   Janet

   a little more info or a picture.

   interior or exterior?

   sash or frame?

   thanks.

2. 
   DanH | Nov 17, 2014 08:15pm | #2

   The factory primer applied to wood windows and the like is something akin to Teflon.  It's not really intended to be painted over, from all appearances.

   You can maybe improve adhesion by using a "paint deglosser", but it needs to be a strong one -- something that will actually soften the surface.

   The only other option is to sand off most of the primer.  Simply scratch sanding is not sufficient.

1. 
   jyang949 | Nov 18, 2014 04:46pm | #4

   While I've got your attention...

   ...what should I do about the gap that opened up at the corner?

   I asked at the paint store and the guy sold me some kind of wood putty, but occurs to me that some more flexible is called for, so it can adjust with seasonal changes.

   Janet

   
1. 
   DanH | Nov 18, 2014 05:47pm | #5

   For the crack use paintable caulk.  I'd probably favor paintable siliconized latex exterior caulk (eg, Dap Alex Plus), since it adheres well and takes paint well and remains flexible.  However, it does not finish as smoothly as some other caulks.

3. 
   jyang949 | Nov 18, 2014 04:42pm | #3

   Here is a picture

   The flaking is interior. Some came off right at the edge of the muntin. Some on the vertical piece (I don't know what it is called) marked by the arrow. You can't see the flaking because I've already sanded it off. 

   Janet

   
4. 
   calvin | Nov 18, 2014 06:31pm | #6

   Janet

   Since the primer stayed there's a couple possibilities.  One, primer in that spot not completely dry b4 top coat or some foreign matter that got there that's not letting the paint adhere.  Sand lightly, wipe clean with a damp cloth and re oat when dry.

   the gap, poor install and redo.  Or caulk and paint and expect to return.  Maybe fill first with Titebond Trim glue and keep wiping off the excess till dry, fill and paint.  This might help it stay stuck together.

1. 
   deadnuts | Nov 19, 2014 10:26pm | #7

   further explanation is warranted

   calvin wrote:

   the gap, poor install and redo.  Or caulk and paint and expect to return.  Maybe fill first with Titebond Trim glue and keep wiping off the excess till dry, fill and paint.  This might help it stay stuck together.

   While this joint failure technically is the result of a poor install, it is not for obvious reasons. For discussion purposes i feel it is worth elaborating due to solution proposed in this response.  I say that because it is not a matter of the mitre staying "stuck together". IMO, this wide casing gap is the result of poor acclimation of trim material--that is acclimation to the expected median home relative humidity level. The shrinkage shown is the result of classic tangential grain shrinkage in millwork where the lengths of the wood cells do not change, but the widths do. The ability of a simple face glued mitre joint to overcome the tremendous stresses of wood fiber shrinkage is very limited. It will nearly alwasy open up to this condition when finally acclimated. I've even seen biscuited mitres pull apart with large M.C.changes due to R.H. changes.

   So what do I suggest? The best solution is what Calvin suggested: redo the trim--but with care to use acclimated material. Use a hygrometer to be sure it is acclimated to similar trim in the house. Also, to biscuit or loose tendon (perhaps Festool dominos) would be a good idea (for this size millwork) in order to help overcome limited R.H. changes. If you put glue, caulk, putty, paint, or whatever in the existing joint, then you would have to have virtually no R.H. change in order for it to not show the repair. In that case, it doesn't matter too much what you put it there as long as the filler takes paint.