I am looking for a clear finish for an exterior wood door. I came across this article that basically says to use untinted paint base that dries clear. http://hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx
Does anyone have an opinion on whether this actually works and would it be better than a product like sikkens?
Replies
joe
Thank you, I've been a user of UVSparVarnish from Helmsman for quite some time-on customers doors. While I have gone back to a few and they were still nice, there is a pair of church doors that are failing after 5 yrs (these the refinish shop finished-I've no idea what was applied).
I may give this method you posted a try.
Sikkens-several yrs ago our volunteers of our Friends group for the local Metropark, refinished then coated alot of treated bench boards. The prior finish (which I am assuming was a Sikkens product-the park seemed to use their coatings solely) had peeled. We did a two part process-a stain then sealer, to the refurbished benches. Either they are lasting or they have been redone and I haven't noticed.
This year I used both an oil and also a waterbased exterior stain from Sikkens-on siding. I hope to hannah that they last-I liked the application of the oil better than the waterbased, except for the heavy fumes. Since I did two different sides in the two products I might be able to decide on which has more life down the road. The oil is no longer available in Ohio due to the voc ratings. I could import but not through shipping from an out of state company.
thanks again.
I use Cetol Window and Door.
The thing I love about it is that to recoat, you just clean the door up and re-apply. No need to strip to bare wood. I usually do a very light scuff sanding "just because". I've used the clear Cetol alone, and clear over the mahogany-tinded Cetol.
I usually do three coats for new wood. 3-5 years protection depending on sun exposure. When a retouch is needed, one coat will do.
I'm not big on finishes, but I love the stuff.