I recently had the house stripped to the chipboard, tvek’ed, and sided with HardiPlank. The painter who I had lined up called out of the blue a said he has quit the business…nice huh?
I found a replacement painter last night and we had a long talk about paint. Now Id like you guys to wade in…the issue is should we use Sherwin Williams Duration at 18 bucks a gallon more or the next one down…I think its called super something. One has 25 yr guarentee, the other lifetime….but we all know no such thing exists as a lifetime guarentee..
Wine is God’s way of capturing the sun.
Replies
I've used both. Both jobs still look great. The second one you are talking about is Super Paint. Check the label on the Duration. Not only does it cost more per gallon, it doesn't cover as much as Super Paint per gallon. I don't have any experience with Hardi-Plank but hear it takes paint great and doesn't expand/contract like wood siding. I vote Super Paint. Good Luck.
Dana
Salmon Falls Housewrights
I'd also vote SuperPaint. Duration was actually made as a supposedly "one-coat" cover for professionals. And $18 a gallon is a pretty good deal on it. However, I've painted just about every type of exterior material (including the cat), with SuperPaint and it works great. I'm installing some FC right now that I prepainted with the first coat (in the shop), and I can tell you that the FC takes paint very, very well....doesn't even look like it needs another coat (but we'll wait until it gets out in the sun!). SuperPaint gets my vote; heck, I think SW's A100 is fine for the application you have in mind! That's got a 15 year warranty, can be used down to 35 degrees, and costs even less. Or is that (the A100) what you were talking about in the first place?
I've had Hardie on my house for two years now and still love it. As for paint, I used an 100% acrylic primer followed by a 100% acrylic topcoat. I felt it was worth the 100% acrylic instead of the cheaper latex blend because of what I read when researching paint. According to Paint in America, published by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, for this application, 100% acrylic is the best: "The principal synthetic polymers that have been used in emulsion paints are of the acrylic, poly vinyl acetate, and styrene-butadiene classes (and combinations of these). The molecular structure of good acrylic resins renders them more resistant to oxidative degradation than styrene-butadiene and more resistant to water than poly vinyl acetates. They [acrylic] are generally considered the best class of emulsion paints for general architectural use."
I don't have an opinion about brands.
Yup, Duration is their top o the line but SuperPaint is great quality, and if you're getting D at $18, you're getting it at your painters cost, not retail. Its possible that your painter has his account setup to reflect his preferences. This is very common with SW. You use one product more than another, then that's the one you do your volume of business in and the one you get a little break on. His pricing might actually make Duration a better cost since it's what he prefers. My rep asked me all kinds of questions about that stuff a long time ago and now my cuts are on the things I use most, and not much cut on the things I only use occasionally. My cost on Cashmere is just barely below retail, but PM200 I'm about half.
"There is always inequity in life. Some men are killed in war and some men are wounded, and some men never leave the country. Life is unfair" J.F.Kennedy
I think the Duration is $18 dollars MORE per gallon.
Duration would make a better choice for the trim and accents, but go with the Superpaint for the fc.
Just re-read. . . So it is. Thought that sounded like a pretty good price point.
"There is always inequity in life. Some men are killed in war and some men are wounded, and some men never leave the country. Life is unfair" J.F.Kennedy
He's talking $18 more per gal. The difference in costs is a small percentage and would not enter into my decision, in this case. Super Paint is not really a step down from Duration, they are different types of paint. Super Paint is the top line of SW's 100% acyrilics. Duration with the "Permalast" technology (acrylic polymer) is meant to be applied much thicker, 7 to 8 wet mils compared to acrylics at 2 or 3 mils. Duration dries softer, making it more flexible.
If the Duration is not applied correctly, it's a waste of money. I would not use Duration on the doors or windows, blocking is an issue since Duration takes longer to cure and stays softer. I also would not use Duration flat.
I believe SW's recommendation for Hardiplank per performance level is Duration, Loxon acrylic, SuperPaint and then the A100 for the preprimed, in that order.
If I were planning on staying in the house awhile, and if I was confident that the painter knew how to apply Duration to the proper millage, I would use Duration satin on the siding and SuperPaint on the doors and windows.
2nd choice would be 2 coats of SuperPaint on the preprimed, On the unprimed Hardiplank, 1 coat primer and 2 coats SuperPaint.
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Barry E
Edited 12/12/2002 10:44:06 PM ET by Barry E
Of course, if you have a wife like mine who likes to change colors every three years...then you might just as well go with A100.
And the price points on SW paints is correct; I get rather obscene discounts on A100, SuperPaint, Classic 99, and porch enamel. Oh, and don't forget that both sets of instructions I read (Certainteed and I think Hardie), tell you NOT to use Oil-based primers on their products.
Thanks guys, you confirmed my thoughts as well...Duration is 18 per gallon MORE...if I could get it for 18 bucks, Id set up a brokerage!
A sidelight....Im pretty blown away by the guy I found to do the work...first he calls back. Then he shows up early. Then he calls again to see if the wife has any questions about how they do the job. Then, he calls again to discuss that he really thinks we need to move now on caulk and facia boards so we can get the gutters up and wait on the painting till spring when we dont have to fight midwestern weather. To top it off, he said if I wanted to pay him in full after they are done that would be ok but if I would consider it, I could pay for the time and materials for caulking now but not to feel obligated.
I may be in a dream.Wine is God's way of capturing the sun.
did you read the hardie plank instruction sheet ???
- they have a list of recommended paints - a lot of paints are on it.
I would use one of those.
Well, here's an example of my experience with the two products. I painted our 1875 Vic with SW Super-paint after a through prep and prime job. The results lasted 7 years before it was definitely time to repaint as the paint had simply worn away. We're out in the country where there is no protection offered by closely situated buildings. For the second job, I chose the SW Duration and DW $ I are both extremely happy with the results. It's been six years now and the house looks like it was painted a month ago. We be happy campers.
This house has clapboards/bevel siding. There may or may not be any advantage to using the Duration product on FC siding. I've applied the Super-paint product to several homes over the years that were sided with asbestos shingles and those have lasted approx. 12 years @ before needing a redo.
Those are my offerings for what they're worth.
I know this is an old thread but there is some bad information on here.
On new hardie siding I recommend first doing a full prime with a primer designed to block the concrete from leaching through the top coat. Yes, Hardie is pre primed but it is barely primed. You only get one chance to put on the coating that all other coatings will stick to for the life of the siding. "Gripper" a Glidden product is available at homestores and is a great primer for that purpose. Get it tinted close to the color you are painting the house.
Regarding paint quality: I wouldn't waste my money on A100 for your own Hardie sided house. Yes it is a good paint, and a step up from what builders use, however it will fade out faster than SuperPaint or Duration. I use A100 on historic houses all the time because it is the best choice for that application, but thats another subject.
As of Fall 2015 Superpaint will come with a "lifetime" warranty which likely won't cover fading but it will also be reformulated to resist getting dirty.
On a Hardie house, your only mode of paint failure (excluding some massive moisture problem) is going to be fading.
A100 will get you 6 to 8 years, maybe 10 if you are in a shady setting
Superpaint will get you an easy 8 to 10 possibly 12
Duration gets you over that 10 year mark.
Your wood trim will need repainting at 7 or 8 years so most people just do it all at the same time. Always use the Duration on trim unless it is an old house or there is a peeling problem. You only use a few gallons and it has excellent film thickness.
Yes Duration does not go as far per gallon as SuperPaint or A100. That is because it goes on 1.5 times as thick as regular paint, which is a good thing.
This brings us to the last point: Film thickness. Just as important as paint quality is the amount of paint applied. Many Many painters don't really do 2 full coats of paint which is 1 full coat sprayed, rolled, brushed (choose your method) allow that to dry, then apply a 2nd full coat.
In short assume you will be repainting in about 8 years. The Duration is more but will look great the entire time, Superpaint will too though might be showing its age the last few years. A100 will fade to a different color by then.
On a Hardie house, your only mode of paint failure (excluding some massive moisture problem) is going to be fading.
Really? I'm pretty sure that the other major failure mode for paint is erosion, and paints are often formulated to erode more rapidly to counteract fading. Erosion is why you need to repaint -- if it was jiust fading, and you didn't care about that, there would be no need to repaint.