That blue painters tape, I tried it around a medicine cabinet in my bathroom and when I pulled it off paint had bled underneath it. Did I just not press hard enough to get a good seal? How do I get a razor sharp line?
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Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK”If yer gonna drive fast on the highway why not go as fast as you can? Like… a hundred miles per hour or more lol.”
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The blue tape is quick release, meaning the adhesive is not as strong, and it does require pressing harder when applying. If the tape is not going to be on the surface more than a day or two, or if there is no danger of pulling off an existing finish(other paint, wood veneer, etc.), you will probably have better luck with the standard masking tape. I like to put a paper towel or rag over my finger and run it firmly over the edge of the tape that is next to the area to be painted. The bue tape is unbeatable on glass,mirrors, dry fresh paint,wallpaper, or any surface exposed to direct sunlight, or instances where it needs to stay on for a few days!
Someone here at Breaktime years ago suggested the use of that frosted plastic tape. Since it is frosted where not attached, one can easily see where any leak may occur. Best used on stained trim and such.
I've tried it and find it to be a great idea. Comes off real easy and leaves no residue.
I still prefer the blue stuff on windows.
Different tapes for different places. Most of the blue is a lower adhesion meant for places like glass where if you leave it sit for a few days it will still pull off and not leave half the adhesive on the glass. But it is not compatible with nitro lacquer, and will leave an impression in it. Then there's blue with the orange core, or lotac, for paint that's fresh enough you shouldn't be masking on it but you have to anyway. You shot the trim yesterday, you're masking to do walls today. Regular masking for most other paint. There's special tapes for lacquered surfaces, green seems a pretty popular color, though I've seen orange and white also.
With any tape, when you put it on, put it on while pulling the roll tight for a straight clean edge. Once it's down, press it down once with a finger, then hard with the edge of an inch knife, almost flat. If the knife corner is rounded over, you'll get leaks. You can keep tuning up a knife with a lick from a belt sander. When you paint, flood the tape. When its dry to the touch, knife it with a zip knife very lightly - you just want to cut the paint, not chew up the wall, the tape, or the trim, and pull the tape off at an acute angle.
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Thank you for the informative posts. I see where a round knife edge would cause leaks. I will keep that in mind. I didn't spray in this case, I did a brush and roll. Spray makes a good, crisp line.
When I cover up hardwood floors with rosin paper prior to painting I use strictly blue tape. A homeowner told me he used masking tape and it pulled the finish off his floors. Poor guy!
Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
"If yer gonna drive fast on the highway why not go as fast as you can? Like... a hundred miles per hour or more lol."
You can do a better job if you learn how to cut in with a good brush and forego the tape. It takes practice and patience.