Replies

1. 
   Danno | Jul 22, 2009 03:02am | #1

   I'll give you a cursory answer to start you out until others answer. In my experience, pressure washing causes more trouble than it does any good. I would scrape the loose paint off and if you want to, you could sand to feather the places where the paint is sticking well into the unpainted. I would prime with good oil or latex primer. I always scrape and prime the same day, so I may not get the whole area done in a day, but what I have scraped will be primed. I have found that not sealing the scraped areas will cause more uplift of old paint as it is unprotected for any length of time. If the area is very dirty, I would wash it first, before scraping or sanding, with TSP or a TSP-substitute (some places won't allow use of TSP because of the phosphate) and rinse it and let it fully dry.

   On end grain, I have used the Minwax liquid consolidator used for repairing rot. Brush it on liberally (wear rubber gloves--it is nasty stuff) with a utility brush you don't care about until the wood won't absorb any more and becomes shiny. Then prime and paint. I have been happy with latex, but others may suggest other things. I have found that oil-based primer sometimes seems to adhere to the old paint and seal it better, but others may disagree. Latex is certainly easier. (Some say that latex "breathes" and is less likely to crack or peel.)

   Oh, and we're a pretty informal (sometimes downright unruly) bunch, no need to call anyone "sir." ;-)  <-to the left was my version of a smiley face to indicate an attempt at humor.

   
   

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   Edited 7/21/2009 8:04 pm ET by Danno

1. 
   whitefoot | Jul 22, 2009 04:39am | #3

   Thanks Danno;

     I am tired of painting and only 3, 4 or 5 years later have the paint start to fail. I had heard of not using the high pressure hose but was not sure. I guess the painters I see use it because it is fast. I printed your response and keeping it in my paint file so when I am ready to paint I will have the best info I can get.

   Thanks again Danno

   Bob

1. 
   kurt99 | Jul 22, 2009 05:41am | #4

   Personally, I would only consider a latex primer if the wood is in like new condition. If it is weathered, I would use oil primer.

1. 
   whitefoot | Jul 22, 2009 07:07am | #5

   Thanks for the info Kurt99

   The wood is about 40 years old but has been painted all of the time and is in good condition. Oil or latex?

   Bob

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jul 22, 2009 01:39pm | #6

   I agree with Danno about oil adhering better in most cases, but that there are some situations where the moisture permeability of latex is an advantage.  I have seen fascia and soffits where an oil primer failed, but in both cases the back of the boards were not primed and the attic could have used more ventilation.

   It's hard to know when latex is going to outperform oil, but in your case, I think the decision is easy.  Since the wood and paint are in good condition, use a 100% acrylic latex primer.  As long as you properly clean the surface, any future paint failure will not be this coat of primer so there's no real point in using oil.

   Before I removed all old paint (as you proposed in your first post), I would replace the fascia.  New wood would get oil primer on all surfaces and 2 coats on the end grain, but better yet, I would use azek.  If the trim was white anyway, it doesn't even need to be painted.

2. 
   whitefoot | Jul 22, 2009 08:57pm | #7

   Thanks for the info DonCanDo

   Bob

3. 
   DonCanDo | Jul 23, 2009 01:02am | #8

   You're quite welcome, but it's just Don.  OK, if you really want to be formal, I guess it would be Mr. CanDo :-)

4. 
   Piffin | Jul 23, 2009 01:17am | #9

   you are getting the hang of it here. no need for formality. This forum is more like guys at the coffee shop talking business and whatever.The theory on primers is that where bare wood is involved, Oil cures much more slowly than water based latex, so it has some time to penetrate the wood and get a good bond, if there is no dust, grease, scaling etc to interfere.
   So I use an oil primer on bare wood and a latex primer on sound painted surfaces. Sherwin Williams has become my favorite exterior paint, with Benjamin Moore runing a close second. Both good for interiors.
   SW has great staff in their stores to advise you also.Do not use a pressure washer to prep for painting, unless it is on a VERY low setting, AND you are experienced with it. The problem with using it is that it can do damage to the wood fibres, and drive water into the wood which makes for a very poor short lived paint job. The only thing it has to recommend it is that it is easy and fast, not that it is good, so only the cheapest laziest painters use it.as you describe your job, with sound paint on already, you should be able to scrape it a bit to test if it is well adhered, then sand to smooth and clean the surface, then apply primer.If you have nail holes to fill, take care of that with exterior spackle or Bond'n'Fill. Caulk if needed, then spot prime over the spackle spots.Then hit it with a coat or two of finish.As previous posts mentioned, if you do find any weal wood, a small spot can be dealt with using a resin filler/hardener, but fascia is a place very proine to rot and hidden rot,so be sure it is sound, and tap on it to start so you can feel it all along. Replace with new wood ( backprimed) if more than a couple dozen square inches are gone bad. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

5. 
   whitefoot | Jul 23, 2009 07:18am | #10

   Thanks Piffin;

     Does Bondo ( auto body filler) work good on cracks and nail holes.

   Bob

6. 
   Piffin | Jul 23, 2009 11:55am | #11

   yes, as long as the surface is tight. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   ruffmike | Jul 22, 2009 04:32am | #2

   Hello Whitefoot,

   Did you step in the paint?.....

   No absolute advice about facsia, if the wood is seriously weathered I like to sand thuroughly and use Smiths penetrating resin. Makes a great base for the paint.

   http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/index.html

    Not a fan of powerwashing before paint.

   Another tip, edit your email off your post. Lots of theives out there. If someone wants to email you they can click on your name in blue and email through the website. Likewise if you want to do the same.

                               Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

   
   

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   Edited 7/21/2009 9:33 pm by ruffmike