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Painting and major “chips”?

DoRight | Posted in General Discussion on August 29, 2011 10:34am

I have a home built in 1976 with a hardboard lap-siding.  It is not LP siding and it is not a cement based product.  It is not delaminating.  It does wick up moisture through the underside of teh lap edge if I do not keep it painted.  I generally do keep up on the painting so that is not the problem or at least not as one might think.

The problem is that in some places the paint has chipped off in areas ranging from the size of a quarter to areas 3 or 4 inches by a foot, and right down to the hardboard itself.  As a result you can see these large chipped areas after you paint.  I have filled these areas with “spakle” or eased the edges of teh chips with spakle (not filled teh entire area) with some sucess.  However the last time I tried this it was a near 100% failure within one or two years with it just peeling away. 

Is there a bondo like product with better adhesion which can be used for this purpose?  Or is there a special sanding material which will not clog up like sandpaper if I need to sand teh paint down to make the transition from paint to chipped out areas?

????

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  1. calvin | Aug 29, 2011 07:38pm | #1

    Do

    You're calling these chips, yet you mention the repairs peeling off.  Moisture will push off paint, in spots, long lines, sheets.

    Could this be your problem, coming back even after repair?  Water getting behind siding and having no place to exit will push off the bond of paint or caulk.

    Did you reprime when you did the repairs?

    3m used to have a "no fill" sandpaper, that was better than most at not clogging quickly-the heat of sanding does more to clog paper because the softened paint fills the void between the grit.  The no fill from 3m I found at an auto body paint supply house.

    1. DoRight | Sep 01, 2011 07:39pm | #3

      Painting

      I am pretty sure I primed the board before I spakled, I am sure I primed on top of the spakle.  This time I did both for sure, but the problem is you and easily see where the peeled areas were. (I called them chips, but peeled areas would better describe the problem).

      There is no way in the universe I will replace teh siding, that will be for the next owner.  Therefore I am looking to see what I can get away with at this point.  Maybe that is to live with being able to see the repainted peeled areas, if spakle will not hold up.

      I was thinking or hoping there would be a better bonding product to fill these areas.  Still open ot other suggestions.

      My thanks to the author suggesting siding replacement.  Thanks but no thanks, LOL.

      1. calvin | Sep 01, 2011 09:25pm | #4

        Do,

        can't help you if you're looking for a way to camoflage the problem you're having with the siding and paint adhesion.

        If I were looking at this house for a prospective buyer I might notice the problem areas, and would advise accordingly.

        Best of luck.

      2. Piffin | Sep 01, 2011 11:37pm | #5

        I sand the edges of those rough areas to smooth them in.

        Or I use a heat gun, steamer, or UV heat machine to soften the paint and scrape it off down to the original material. Spackle and boindo are better for filers in holes and not so good for sheet ill on larger surfaces. If you need to used a filler though, it helps to drill a few holes or sand the surface roughly with 36 or 40 grit to give it tooth to hold on.

  2. renosteinke | Aug 30, 2011 11:25am | #2

    Your siding has reached the end of its' life. There's no fix that doesn't involve replacing it.

    The problem is inherent to the material. Over time, it absorbs moisture. No matter how 'dry' it feels today, it's still saturated with water. If you were to measure it against a new piece of the same material, you'd be amazed at just how swollen it is.

    1. Piffin | Sep 01, 2011 11:39pm | #6

      There's that too

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