Hello,
I was wondering if anyone has had any success painting baseboard radiator covers. I’m in the midst of a re-model and would be dealing with new covers (old ones are so beat up it isn’t worth the effort to clean them up). My primary conerns is heat resiatnce and durability — especially in a bathroom where they are prone to rust over time… The current plan is to spray them prior to installation — does anyone have any advice for a good primer and top coat to use?
Thanks in advance —
Best Regards,
Michael
Replies
Drop an email to Slantfin, they make most of the baseboard I know of and see what they say for painting. They may have something on their website about this already. Also, I have a friend in the heating/ac field and we were talking about rusting baseboards in bathrooms a few weeks ago. He said that they make a baseboard designed for bathrooms that won't rust. He and the local supply houses call it pee proof baseboard. Slantfin would have more info about this too.
Thanks for the quick response. I dropped Slantfin a note as you recommended -- the goal is to paint them to match the trim in each room -- which is not white or grey -- or perhaps paint them the same color as the walls. I don't like the look baseboard heaters and I'm basically trying to just make them blend in with their surroundings as much as possible. Since the covers have all been removed, I figured that now would be a good time... Thanks again--M
I painted my slant/fin base board covers. They are about 30 years old. I sanded the rust and roughed up the rest of the surface. I then primed with metal primer and top coated with the same semi gloss I used for the trim. After two years they look fine.
I will cover the low tech, I have done a number of them including baths. Ive been successful with spray bombs and treating them like a car.
Parts nailed to the wall, I just papered and taped off, sanded and sprayed in place, removable I did in a shop. The trick with the bath is to add a clear topcoat, I dont think a baseboard produces enough heat to damage an enamel finish.
I put 3 coats of clear on, because I felt like it was enough messy work that I didnt want to have to do them again. The surface is spotless, even small repairs in color coats dont show. I think I used engine enamel (500 deg) for the clear, but color was standard.
-zen
Thanks everyone for the feedback. As always, great information -- especially the tip regarding the clear coat... I'm wondering if you chromed the end caps too and really tricked it out :-)Cheers,--M
cool,
I have actually done a few flame jobs, but usually not on the house parts.
I put them on my tools so I can spot them, yeah its a bunch of time, but you got to have fun once in a while.
-zen
Our old house had steel Slant-Fin baseboards that needed painting. They were nailed to the walls, so the first step was removing the covers and brackets. Next we sanded the loose paint and rusty spots, and then hit the bare spots with zinc primer. The top coat was appliance epoxy.
Considering all the work involved, it might have been easier to just install new units! Slant-Fin now sells a special, rust-resistant unit for damp locations.