Replies

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 06, 2003 07:14pm | #1

   Need to know what type of paint, new work, old work, etc.?

2. 
   Mongo | Oct 06, 2003 07:19pm | #2

   Use a good brush. Purdy is a good line that is easily found in paint shops and box stores. Invest $15 in a brush spinner and cleanup will take 30 seconds and use much less solvent. Properly cleaned brushes will last you years.

   Use a quality paint.

   Don't overwork the paint. Depending on the style of the doors, sometimes it's easier to roll the paint on with a small 4" mini-roller, then back-brush with a Purdy. Again, don't overwork the paint, meaning, get it where you want it and leave it alone. Sometimes people put on too much paint then have to come back a few minutes later tio brush out the drips...and that can set brush marks. When I paint doors I work from the deeper recesses of the doors and work towards me. That means I paint the recessed panel first, then the stiles and rails.

   Use an additive that increases the paint's working time and inproves its flow and leveling characteristics. For latex, look at Floetrol. Oil, check out Penetrol. Both available at paint shops and box stores.

3. 
   ken1putt | Oct 06, 2003 07:47pm | #3

   IMHO, it depends on what you wnat the finish to look like when you're done. 

   On cabs in two different houses, I wanted to mimic the texture of melamine, without replacing the doors. I used a good-quality paint applied with one of those skinny foam rollers. 1

   With the doors off and working on the flat, I could see the texture and carefully rolled out the paint as it started to dry. The foam picked up a fine stipple that looks just like the melamine.

   I one case it was a cheap kitchen redo that added some KD melamine cab to the existing plywood ones. the plywood got a couple of coats of semi-gloss and, despite differences in cab design, the place looked like it had received a complete remodel, instead of just a minor one.

   The other set were some inexpensive birch veneer cabinets for a laundry room. On them, a gloss white cabinet and vanity paint achieved a similar effect, and had held up to weekly abuse as a storage area for laundry supplies.

   And there's nary a brushmark to be seen.

   K

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   "Arguing with anonymous strangers on the Internet is a sucker's game because they almost always turn out to be -- or to be indistinguishable from -- self righteous sixteen-year-olds posessing infinite amounts of free time." - Neil Stephenson, Cryptonomicon

4. 
   CAGIV | Oct 06, 2003 08:22pm | #4

   oil:penetrol

   latex, bad idea on cabinets, floetrol

   any paint store will carry them, if not HD or lowes should have them

   what kind and brand of paint are you using, what kind of brush?

1. 
   dumfounder | Oct 06, 2003 09:14pm | #6

   watch out for consistency changes as you go along.  Probably not a big deal this time of year, but when it's warm, my experience is that the penetrol'ed paint thickens as you proceed.  Starts out good, but by the fifth cabinet you're getting brush marks.  Don't know if the penetrol is particularly volatile or what.

   regards

5. 
   JerraldHayes | Oct 06, 2003 08:49pm | #5

   First of all use oil and not latex and secondly try using Schreuder Hascolac paint. It is by far the best leveling paint out there. You pay through the nose for it but it is that good a product in my opinion. We had one project a little over a year ago where I actually recommended against using Hascolac because if we were going to match the look of the existing doors in this particular home we would need the bushmarked look and matching that with Hascolac would be difficult if not impossible.

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6. 
   JerraldHayes | Oct 06, 2003 09:16pm | #7

   First of all use oil and not latex and secondly try using Schreuder Hascolac paint. It is by far the best leveling paint out there. You pay through the nose for it but it is that good a product in my opinion. We had one project a little over a year ago where I actually recommended against using Hascolac because if we were going to match the look of the existing doors in this particular home we would need the bushmarked look and matching that with Hascolac would be difficult if not impossible.

   ---

   View Image

   ParadigmProjects.com | Paradigm-360.com | Mac4Construction.com

7. 
   bill_1010 | Oct 07, 2003 01:24am | #8

   Floetrol for latex, Penetrol for Oil based.  it increases the open time allowing brush marks to settle down. 

   Check the can of either penetrol or floetrol to make sure im right on the names.

8. 
   blues_hound | Oct 07, 2003 05:15am | #9

   Use a small roller like the ones for walls but about a 3inches long and 1inch diameter our painter uses thoose rather then spraying exterior doors to avoid brush marks hope this helps.

1. 
   CAGIV | Oct 07, 2003 08:22pm | #10

   Do know what type of cover he uses, foam or nap?

   I've tried using those for enamels and even with using penetrol, everything I've used still leaves a texture.

1. 
   blues_hound | Oct 07, 2003 08:56pm | #11

   He uses one with nap and it kind of gives it a real light orange peel look.

1. 
   CAGIV | Oct 07, 2003 10:53pm | #12

   same with the foam covers I've tried, I was blindly hoping there might be something that laid down a smoother coat.  The foam will level out with almost anything for me besides enamel.

   thanks Neil