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Discussion Forum

Painting Cabinets

CCI | Posted in General Discussion on July 30, 2007 09:13am

I am looking to paint (which I hate, by the way) some kitchen cabinets.  They are pretty old but in good shape and are currently painted yellow.  The will soon be white, I hope.  The existing paint is in decent shape but it does need a good cleaning/ degreasing.  I am looking for some help with the cleaning and selecting the primer and paint.

I figured to use some TSP or Soilax first then some liquid sandpaper.  Is this okay?  Should I rinse the TSP or will the liquid sandpaper remove any residue left over?

I would really like to avoid sanding if possible.

Once they are clean and ready to paint – I will remove the doors first – what should I use for a primer? This will have to be brushed or rolled, I can’t spray them in place.

What should I use for paint?  I assume a gloss or semigloss.  I would really like something durable – I don’t want to do this again. 

These cabinets are located in a church kitchen so not everyone will be as careful with the finish as I would.

Thanks.

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  1. DanH | Jul 30, 2007 10:02pm | #1

    These are wood, painted with an apparently standard oil or latex of some sort, correct?

    It would be good to figure out what sort of paint is on there. Wet a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol and rub it on the cabinet (in a spot previously cleaned with soap and water, if the cabinet is pretty grimy). If any of the paint color comes off on the cotton ball it's probably latex paint, if not, probably not.

    Clean the worst grime off with detergent & water or one of those spray cleaners, then wash with TSP or similar. Sand any rough spots smooth. Finally, treat with a "liquid sandpaper". Do not do any more cleaning after the "liquid sandpaper".

    If the paint you will be using is "compatible" with the existing paint (generally oil on oil or latex on latex, but read the can), you don't need a primer, otherwise you need the appropriate primer for the paint combo you have. In any case, the primer will help cover the existing color better.

    You want a gloss or semigloss -- look for something that advertises itself as being for kitchens. Best approach is to use a fine-textured foam roller to apply paint (and primer, if used) to the doors and to face frame. There are narrow foam rollers suited to doing the narrow face frame and getting into corners, but do "cut in" first with a brush to areas you can't reach with the roller and to the edges of the doors.

    You may need to do two coats of the final finish. Read instructions on can for drying time between.

    So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
  2. kate | Jul 31, 2007 01:21am | #2

    What Dan said, plus...Look for Diamond-Hard brand paint - it's a latex enamel which, if not truly diamond hard, is pretty tough.

    I would also recommend a pigmented shellac like BIN as a primer - it has a lot of grip, & is a terriffic sealer.

    1. CCI | Jul 31, 2007 07:17am | #3

      Thanks for the info.  I just got back from the kitchen (actually from the Simpsons movie but that is a whole 'nuther story) and it looks like there are 3 layers of paint on the wood cabinets and doors.  I believe the top layer is latex and is adhered pretty well.  I will use Bin for a primer since it sticks to anything and dries quickly and smells so bad it makes you work faster.

      I like the little rollers and I think I have some of the foam covers - they are hard to find so I usually stock up when I see them.  This way I can throw them out when done as opposed to spending 20 minutes cleaning them only to find dried paint embedded in them anyway.

      Is something like a 100% acrylic paint a good choice?  i would prefer not to use oil base if possible.

      Thanks.

      1. restorationday | Jul 31, 2007 01:29pm | #4

        I use BM Impervo for stuff like that but it is oil base. It is hard stuff and will not show brush marks even on a wide flat surface like a cab doorEDIT: I just remembered BM might make a waterbase Impervo as well though I have never used it.

        Edited 7/31/2007 6:31 am ET by restorationday

      2. DonCanDo | Jul 31, 2007 01:47pm | #5

        Is something like a 100% acrylic paint a good choice?  i would prefer not to use oil base if possible.

        Benjamin-Moore does make a 100% acrylic version of their Satin Impervo.  I've used and and I like it.  It's not quite as glossy as the oil version, but it dries hard and cleans easily.

        Oil vs acrylic:  Oil will leave fewer brush marks and adheres better.  Acrylic is much easier to apply and takes a lot less time.  If it were my kitchen, I would use acrylic.  For a more "commercial" kitchen, I think it depends on how much abuse you see it getting.  More abuse is a stronger vote for oil.  The best way to determine how much abuse you see it getting is probably by taking a look at it now and seeing how much abuse it's already been getting.

      3. kate | Jul 31, 2007 05:57pm | #7

        See what the more experienced painters say above...I just do my own old house, so my experience is more limited. I am a specialist in muddling through...making the best of what I have to work with, etc.Good luck with your project!

  3. TomT226 | Jul 31, 2007 01:59pm | #6

    I shoot all the cabs I build with Sherwin Willams ProClassic 100% Acrylic.  brushes and rolls well too. A light scuff and prime with SW primer, and two coats of finish should do it.  Watch the coating on the shelves so you don't get blocking.  I allow at least 48 hours to dry after the last coat.  An oscillating fan will help the air movement and drying time.

     

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