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Painting Cedar Lap Siding

epsaklas | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 17, 2009 11:06am

I am installing cedar lap siding (approx 1200 SF) and intend on using clear vertical grain siding that has been primed (oil based) and painted with one acrylic latex finish coat. I will apply a second coat after installation. The installation will use stainless steel nails. My question is: will the second coat of paint cover the nails and not flake or chip off? Should the nails be spot primed with an oil based paint? Another question: The siding will be on an addition to a 100 year house. The original siding has numerous coats of paint, therefore, the nails generally can not be seen. To match this smooth appearance, I could countersink the nails on the addition and fill with Elmers indoor/outdoor wood filler, touch up the filler with an color matched oil base primer, and then put on the final coat. Has anyone done this and will it hold up? thanks.

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  1. Geoffrey | Sep 18, 2009 02:53am | #1

     

    How are you installing the nails, by hand or gun? I suggest NOT using ring shank nails, it's completely unnecessary. What does the manufacturer say about spot- priming? Acrylic or Oil? I'd guess Acrylic latex primer, if needed (or recommended) other wise, just do you're second coat over the entire surface.  

    Do Not "counter-sink" the nail heads, the nail should be driven just flush with the wood surface, with no filler, you should be nailing into the studs to fasten the siding, pre-drill at the ends of the boards about 1 1/2" back from the edge (prevents splitting). I suggest using 5d or 6d  galvy box nails whichever is available.

    Prime your end cuts with "end cuts" brand primer or a similar product, I like to use a strip(3"w x 5")of 15# or 30# felt behind the butt joint, no need to caulk.

    You should, IMHO, also use strips of felt behind the corner boards extending past the trim 3-4", same thing behind window and door trim as well.

                                                                               Geoff

    1. johnharkins | Sep 18, 2009 04:32am | #2

      Geoff has great suggestions
      I'd have SSringshank aboard for when you don't know just where that stud is and thinking you have a fine thing going w/ clear cedar & jersey shore priming the backs of those boards w/ an oil primer is the way to goremember being in Motoloking (sp?) for a wedding & checking out the residential bldg
      could not believe all the kiln dried clear cedar - 5/4 X 10 - 20 feet long all from our PacNW but we don't see that too often but there were stacks of it - I was drooling

  2. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Sep 18, 2009 05:12am | #3

    That's what we did - 8,000 LF of CVG preprimed with Cabot Problem Solver and one coat latex (finished with Duration).   We set and filled the nail holes with MH Ready Patch (Elmers is a little flaky but good product).

    We wrapped the corners behind the (Spanish cedar) beaded corner boards with Vycor.   End cuts were primed with felt strips behind as noted.

    Ring shanks are perfect - I think we used 8d SS.   I don't think they're overkill at all - just wait until you put a ladder against the siding and pop those box nail heads.  The the installation is holding up beautifully - that's 'Mike the Sider' on the right one of the better installers in NJ ;o)

    We do have some 1 x 8 CVG primed/painted left over (around 500 LF) if anyone needs a little email me.

    View Image

    Jeff



    Edited 9/18/2009 7:41 am ET by Jeff_Clarke

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