I built a towel rack/warmer for my bathroom because I’m too cheap to buy one from Runtal. 76 sweat joints later (and not a single leak) I’m ready to finish it and install. Does anyone have any hints for painting copper? I suspect a coat of primer is a good idea although I haven’t found anything that mentions non-ferrous metals. I found a “galvanizing” primer (contains zinc) in a rattle can at my local Ace Hardware. Might this work?
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Wonder if powder coating might work?
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
I'm surprised that you didn't start with chromed copper tubing. Would have resolved this dilemma. I'm afraid that I can't politely respond to the concept of warming bath towels when the unemployment rate is up to 10 per cent.
"Your honor I would like to present exhibit A of why it's not the best idea to post after you have had a bad day"Sheesh man, he just wanted advice, not a guilt trip. Go easy on 'im.Naive but refreshing !
Yeah, bad day, and yeah, I'm sorry. I just look at what seems to me to be extravagance when we're in an economic difficulty. Heated towels. Who can defend this rationally?
I'll take a shot. He went to a store and bought pipe, solder and maybe a torch. His purchase, combined with others, allowed the store to remain open and provide jobs for other people. Those people took the money they earned at the store and spent it at other stores which employed other people. If everyone built a towel warmer the economy might recover.
Oh, come on, Florida. Your reasoning is that we should all go out and spend frivolously to support the economy. Should I now expect our president to be campaigning for the purchase of towel warmers as a way out of our recession? I have a better idea. Everybody buy a cord of firewood, even if you don't have a fireplace. Your purchase will stimulate the sales of log splitters, chain saws, 4WD pickups, Carhartt overalls, and resolve that trillion dollar deficit that Bush left behind. Whoops, sorry, it was less that that in 2008, wasn't it?
Actually, the reason the economy IS bad is because consumers are not spending. This is an over-simplification, but it is the heart of the matter. Whan the credit dried up, people couldn't get loans to buy new houses, do kitchen and bath remodels, and generally couldn't spend money at YOUR business. People had excess credit before, and spent beyond their means for years, which fueled a boom where people did spend money at your business. It was like a coke habit. Fast and furious. Now we've got the withdrawal symptoms. People are saving more and spending less. I know if my customers quit spending, my economy would suffer.
I'm not sure what the unemployment rate has to do with my cheap-o towel warmer which, by the way, is also my only heat source for the bathroom.
I vote for the powder coat, if it won't effect the joints.
that stuff is baked on at a high heat.
I worked part time at a powder coater, & they ran radiators thru every day No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.
That's why I voted powder coat, I has some CI rads done,GREAT!!!!!!!Solder melts at a low temp., don't know if that can take it.
Powder coatings cure at 375° to 425°F for about 10 minutes.Oatey lead-free solder melt point is 420-460°F, so it might work out OK.That's cutting it kinda close, though, especially if some flux might bubble out of one of the joints.BruceT
Edited 10/27/2009 11:20 pm by brucet9
Unemployment 10%? Where? That's the best news I've heard for months! :D
As for the towel bars: Go back and look at the rattle cans again. You can find paint that looks ecactly loke copper - which will have your friends admiring your perfect joints! Or, go for the chrome. Any of these work just fine on copper pipe.
You have to etch the copper first before priming.
This works pretty well:
View Image
Despite the primary use being for masonry. Follow up with metal primer (Rustoleum one of the best) and finish paint.
Jeff
Thanks, I'll try etching first. Will the galvanizing primer offer any advantages over the rustoleum primer?
I don't know. But I might consider using their epoxy appliance enamel - it's really tough stuff.
Jeff
Galvanizing primer would gain you nothing. Its purpose is to protect steel and iron from rusting. You just need a good metal prep primer for adhesion or maybe a two-part epoxy paint directly over etched copper.BruceT
As I really feel like blasting barmil for not understanding consumer based economics 101 I'll refrain from that.
We paint copper pipes on our jobs quite often.
Just like any other metal you are going to want to clean & degrease it.
I happen to like the look & color of raw copper, but in a bathroom it will turn pasty green.
A good clearcoat will keep it like new copper for a long time.
Someone is going to suggest shellac.
"Yer killin me Smalls"
;-)
At my parents place they have a toilet in a converted porch. The feed pipe had to run along two outside walls. Not a good idea in Canada where the temp can go to -30 easy. So the pipe is run at the floor. I shined the pipes up with brasso (don't know if you get that) a metal polish and then used an oil based clear coat.
Did the same thing for thier claw foot tube feed tubes. Several years later and the pipes are still looking new. No green!!
What about going Au Naturel!
My only question to this would be how did you attach this rack to the wall?
Copper is pretty good at holding paint, as long as it's cleaned of all oil. You also have flux residue to remove. I'd take the thing outside and wipe it down with acetone just before painting.
You need a 'hard' finish to stand up for any time, so powder coating is a very good choice. Or, you can go 'whole hog' and have a plating shop plate the thing. Because of the temperatures involved, you'll want to pressure-test it again afterwards.
An auto body shop, or a custom bike shop, uses some pretty durable urethane paints as well. Might be worth talking to one.
A second choice would be an 'appliance enamel' or a 'lacquer.' Spray on many, many very light coats, just a 'kiss' of paint on each pass.
Finally, the various 'metallic' paints make surprisingly believable finishes. The drawback is that these are no more durable than ordinary spray paint, and that's not very durable at all.
Finally, the work will benefit from a good coat of clear lacquer.
Copper Pipe
Have it electrosticly painted.