painting cupboards – brush, roller, or sponge roller?
netrate
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Which is the best method to paint flat cupboard doors? Brush, roller or sponge roller?
Replies
Brush, followed by sponge roller.
If we aren't spraying, and we usually aren't, we use one of the small rollers made ot get behind toilet to do as much of the door as possible. If it's a flat door we do it all and if it;s paneled we roll it all out then tip the panel edges with a good brush. With a little care the doors will look like they were sprayed.
Well, I tried the roller and it turned out badly (primer). Very rough. I have the doors off, so it was easy to do on a bench, but the roller left a rough surface (this is the primer Zinssler). I am going to have to use a fine sandpaper after it dries and smooth it out before putting on the cupboard paint. Extra work, but alas, the way it goes.
David
I've got to hand it to you.........
You try everything and damn'd if you don't most always run into a problem. Better luck has got to be coming to you.
What thickness nap are you using on that roller cover?
I think the pile is 10 or 9 . Not sure if that is in mm or something. Thanks for the comments...yeah, I guess learning is a many-spendored thing.
David
w/o me going to the van and getting out my mm tape-what's that in fractions of an inch?
Low nap or foam roller for smooth-anything nappier than that and you'll get an eggshell finish.
Ok, I will buy a low nap or pile one tomorrow. I know it is a pain to fix this, but I will put some 200 grit sandpaper on a palm sander and give doors all a once over to make it smooth again. It is only the primer, so hopefully the next time around with a low nap roller, it will go on better.
The 10mm pile I used was the one I used on all of the walls and it worked great, but I know now that cabinets are much different. Thanks for the advice.
Yeah, to get a good finish you need a roller with imperceptible nap. Even with a foam roller you don't want one with large holes in the foam.
And pre-brushing the edges and any details (or divots/open grain) is important -- the roller will not, by itself, achieve complete coverage.
Ok, what should I ask for at the paint store? Which nap size?
I've always just bought them (foam rollers) at HD. My "favorite" is a small-diameter yelllow foam roller with a rounded end, but basically I'm just looking for smooth foam.
But if you go to a good paint store (not the HD paint department) and describe what you're doing they should be able to point you to the right roller.
I bought a roller from Dulux today, the smallest pile they had, 5mm. They recommended that one, so hopefully it will do the trick.
5mm is about 3/16", still
5mm is about 3/16", still fairly fluffy. But try it, I guess.
It was the smallest they had. I did try it and yes it took longer because it does not hold as much paint. Which roller size should I have used? And this was from a Paint only store...
I have heard so many things, my head can't keep it straight! lol
I am going to buy the foam roller today, the 5mm did not do the trick, but that is ok, learning as I go.
smooth paint
Got to have good paint. Generally, oil enamel is most pedictable. Keep a wet edge so it can flow out. The best way (without spraying) is to use the roller to get the paint on the surface quickly, then tip it off with a good quality brush before it can start to skin over or dry. Work fast. Retarder products such as penetrol, flotrol for latex can help, but can effect color.
Faster drying paints such as latex make it difficult to achieve a smooth surface, Also, semi and gloss latex paints are susecptible to "blocking", where it sticks to itself after drying. This can be a disaster on cabinet shelves and doors. Ive found that latex enamel formulations change often enough I can not count on its performance for cabinetry or trim in general.
Oil paints today are often too thick for proper application. You might even read on the can "do not thin". The reason is they are trying to conform to V.O.C regulations by leaving out the thinner, or vehicle that allows you to achieve the finish you desire. Just as in spraying, to achieve a smooth finish you must apply thin coats, and the only way to do that is to thin with something. Acetone will thin oil paint and is actually low VOC, but evaporates really fast. You can also buy "enamel reducer" in a paint store in various evap rates for different temperature ranges.
another trick
This is a trick I have used with varnish on boat work. It should work with oil paint too. If you chill the thinned oil paint in the refrigerator before use, it will thicken and slow the evaporation rate while you are applying it. It will flow out as the surface underneath warms it.
Painting cupboards - brush, roller, or sponge roller
There is one other trick that I have found to be useful. If you are priming with a waterbased (latex) primer, the water in the paint will raise the nap making it rough and in need of sanding. Use an oil based primer instead and after it dries, you can use latex for a final coat. That process will give you a smoother finish whether you brush, roll or spray.
I am coming along ok with a foam brush. I am sanding it with a 2000 grit sandpaper between coats (only if it needs it). I am thinking after I might clear coat it - what do you think?