Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Jan 05, 2006 08:54pm | #1

   I haven't seen a glulam manufacturer yet that recommended using their products outside.

   You can check with the manufacturer, but I doubt they'll go for it.

   War will never cease until babies begin to come into the world with larger cerebrums and smaller adrenal glands. [H.L. Mencken]
1. 
   Hoohuli | Jan 05, 2006 11:54pm | #2

   I'm not building this one, just doing the painting. That's the reason for my question. Any ideas on what to put on first would be appreciated. I will talk to the client more and probably not gaurantee the paint on the gluelams like I do all my other work.

   Edited 1/5/2006 3:56 pm by Hoohuli

1. 
   BossHog | Jan 06, 2006 01:34am | #3

   I wouldn't paint the thing. If it eventually delaminates that might give them legal recouse against you. People have been sued over sillier things than that.
   I have a hectic schedule. I'm busier than than someone who works at the lemming suicide hotline.

2. 
   Framer | Jan 06, 2006 04:37am | #5

   Boss,I went to look at a job down the Jersey shore a couple months ago with my friend who is a roofer and sider and he took me to a job where there was a problem with a leak and showed me a second floor deck these guys built using Pt Glulams for the girders. That was the first time I ever seen them before.Joe Carola

2. 
   scottthebuilder | Jan 06, 2006 02:43am | #4

   Ben Moore oil primer will do it. Beams designed for exterior use are coomon and are used often. Your concern, I assume is getting paint to stick and not to second guess an architect, engineer, various building officials, and the builder you are working for.

   See the following link under the PROTECTION WITH SEALANTS heading. Pay particular attention to the ends as they like to soak up water. Maybe a penetrating sealer, then oil primer, then a high quality top coat.

   http://www.apawood.org/glu_level_b.cfm?content=prd_glu_bui_tips

   GOOD LUCK!

1. 
   Hoohuli | Jan 06, 2006 05:02am | #6

   Mahalo for the site, will put a sealer on the ends, then prime and paint as usual. We have some large glulams on the golf clubhouse here as decorative fascias and after 30 years of sun they are in bad shape. Originally they were just stained and then nothing done for 20 years, lots of neglect, so you can imagine how they look. They were just painted a few years back, but again no prep or primer so the paint is coming off, checking, faded, chalking, you name it. I think the painter must have been related to someone on the B. o D. at the time. Again thanks for the info.

1. 
   scottthebuilder | Jan 06, 2006 05:49am | #7

   Do you have Pittsburgh paints over there?

   This new Manor Hall paint by Pittsburgh would be ideal. I don't think the warranty would be valid in a commercial application but it is awesome stuff. It has an alkyd type sheen when cured. It doesn't need a primer and covers in one coat. The only problem would be availability. Lowe's carries a similar line and calls it Duramax. Pittsburgh is pricey at around $50-60 a gallon.

   http://www.ppg.com/ppgaf/pittsburgh/timeless/timeless.htm

1. 
   Hoohuli | Jan 06, 2006 09:31pm | #8

   There used to be a Pittsburg dealer here, but he has been gone for years. I'll check around, thanks.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Jan 06, 2006 09:39pm | #9

   A good 2-part penetrating epoxy sealer is made by Smith and Company, Richmond, CA. I don't have a website for them, but I do have a # and you can call them: 510-237-6842. You can also see and order their products from the Rot Doctor in Seattle, rotdoctor.com. They may not have the Smith label displayed on that site, but that's what their products are. Either way, I would talk to Smith and then to the tech reps at your paint manufacturer (Moore is good) and get input from both.

   Boss is correct that glulams outside are not a good idea. There are pressure treated glulams and maybe that's what those are, maybe not. It is a good idea to use a metal flashing on top of any beam that projects out from under the roof edge. Paint won't hold up there, and of course no one can see it so it won't get maintained. You might want to state in your contract that metal flashing is to be done by others, then when they don't do it you aren't at fault.

2. 
   Hoohuli | Jan 07, 2006 06:36am | #10

   I have the Smith System for use on these expensive villas that I maintain down by the water. I had not thought of the sealer as a gen. use item for the ends of the beams, but it makes sense. The Smith System for rot repairs is just the greatest, no sag in overhead rotted repairs, time to work the material all the way in, just about indestructable, and EASILY PAINTED! The metal on top is good too. Sometimes we are just too close to something to see it!!!