Replies

1. 
   WebTrooper | Dec 15, 2003 03:55am | #1

   Hi FourQuarter,

   I generally paint the exposed slots with the windows closed and keep the rest wood. Don't get paint on the hardware! :o)

   ~ WebTrooper ~

   "But don't take my word for it. I was wrong once and it could happen again!"

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 15, 2003 07:05am | #2

   You said stained interiors. So Iwould stain the tracks and parting bead the same way, and then apply a good coat of Butcher's wax. It will protect the wood and help ease the function.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   plantlust | Dec 15, 2003 07:05am | #3

   I stripped all the paint off the channels too.  I'm thinking either Bri wax or soap.  Agree that varnish/Varathane may not be the best approach. 

   If I were kind and adoring, how would that be?...very boring       ?

4. 
   RonnyK | Dec 15, 2003 10:53pm | #4

   I just did this myself.  The inside and outside of my windows are painted.  The edges of the sashes were stripped, coated with tung oil and then waxed.  The channels on the window frame were stripped of paint and covered with spring bronze weather stripping.  This stuff looks good and does a pretty good job at keeping drafts out and stopping any rattle of the sashes from wind in that it "springs" out against the side of the sashes to hold tight.  I then waxed the spring bronze to make it glide better against the windows. 

   The wood strip between the sashes, called the partition bead, I left unpainted, but coated it with a few coats of tung oil.  My windows are painted a white semi-gloss on the interior, any we really like the contrast between the metallic coloring of the spring bronze and sash chain, the while sashes and the wood coloring of the partition bead.  The tung oil has a slight gloss to it that brings out the wood tone.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/15/2003 2:56:02 PM ET by RKatcher

1. 
   DavidThomas | Dec 15, 2003 11:15pm | #5

   Not the original question, but since people are talking about stripping paint in a old houses:

   The probability of lead-based paint (LBP) in a pre-1950's house is high, especially on double-hung window (LBP was the most durable paint and those are friction and impact surfaces that got repainted a lot).  The older the house, the higher the risk on average (more coats of paints).

   Heat striping (<1100F, <750F in Oregon) followed by scraping is preferred.  Sending the whole thing out to be chemically stripped by professional is good, but expensive.  Do not dry sand it unless you've 1) had it tested for LBP - there are cheap test kits or 2) are knowledgable and skilled at sanding in a contained space with HEPA filtration with respiratory protection. 

   FHB had an overview article about 8 months ago on LBP work.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 16, 2003 04:50am | #6

   "Heat striping (<1100F, <750F in Oregon) followed by scraping is preferred."

   David,

   Why it the temp used to strip paint different in Oregon than any other place in the world, or at least in the US?

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 16, 2003 05:07am | #7

   Because lead is much more volatile in OR. Or maybe it's because the regulators in OR have their heads wedged. You decide.

2. 
   DavidThomas | Dec 16, 2003 05:18am | #8

   In locations where federal standards differ, the stricter standard prevails.   Oregon, for whatever reason, opted to be more protective of their workers who abate lead paint. 

   A reverse example is that the Commonwealth of Massachusetts requires abatement of lead-based paint above 1.2 mg/cm2.  Whereas the federal standard (1.0 mg/cm2) is stricter and therefore prevails, at least on federally funded projects.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

1. 
   BillHartmann | Dec 16, 2003 06:35pm | #9

   I suspected that MIGHT have been what you ment, but you left a little out.

2. 
   AdamB | Dec 16, 2003 10:43pm | #10

   have you tried citristrip?

   Works like a charm.  Put it on, go do something else for about 2 hours or  more depending on thickness of paint layers.

   take off with all that paint....

   either rub wood down with mineral spirits or let it dry over night

   paint stain......

   the best part is it doesn't stink.... you don't really need a respirator ( I use one but the box claims you don't need it)

   Christmas is coming..... should I buy the wife that new tablesaw ....hmmmm

1. 
   DavidThomas | Dec 16, 2003 11:28pm | #11

   I haven't used chemical striping (not a lot of old house stock in Alaska), but from a worker safety perspective, yes - if you protect yourself from the chemicals - it is a good way to avoid exposure to lead dust.

   David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska