I have used a paint additive called E-B Emulsion in the past when painting over chalky exterior paints with latex acrylic. You should be able to find same/similar product at a professional paint source.
………………………….Iron Helix
I have used a paint additive called E-B Emulsion in the past when painting over chalky exterior paints with latex acrylic. You should be able to find same/similar product at a professional paint source.
………………………….Iron Helix
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 70%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Any chance this is old Merusco paint? It was nothing but chalk! I don't know if there's a solution to that stuff.
Sample to the paint store may help...
Gawd, I am so sick of answering painting questions, I have to get my dad on a computer.
If it is chalking you are screwed. How simple is that? Why is it "chalking"? Your substrate failed to suport your paint system. Why? What is your substrate, what is your paint system? Until you know this your SW genius can only take a stab in the dark. You could have the perfect product that were applied below temp.
What is the extent of the failure, 10%, 50%, 90%? Because without taking a sample to a chemist you are grasping at straws, but you could come up with a plan by using your head. Depending on the failure you can come up with a prep plan, a simple test could determine what the finish is, I think acetone disolves latex?
It would be a hell of a lot easier to go to Home Depot and ask them what to do.
I am so sick of answering painting questions,
Why do you think your Dad taught you everything he knows and half of what he didn't?
;)Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for the brain adjustment, Pif, I won't be so grumpy next time. ;-)
As it turns out the geezer has a birthday on the 11th, he will be 81. I would buy him a computer but Ma has one, (and yes she is hooked), and he won't go near the thing. Too new age or something, heck, he is a decade or so into figuring out how to set the time on the vcr.
I've yet to tell him the "bench" story, maybe he will get a kick out of it if I print it out. Ya, like I could find it here, lol.
Paneling!!!!!
Be well
Namaste'
Andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Wow, talk about needing an adjustment, I didn't even notice that Pete asked this question.
This won't be pretty, and I don't know if it will work for your job, but this is what I would do. I would pressure wash the surface to blow off the failed coating. Go thru the job at a comfortable speed, then go back and do it again, because the water will work to soften what doesn't come off on the first trip. You have to be careful to keep the pressure down so you don't destroy anything, the temptation is to do this on one pass, but the water will soften the coating up after time. You will get a feel for how much good the pressure washing is doing, and you will know when to stop. I would be surprised if you don't blow the finish coat right off, or nearly so.
Once there, let dry and sand. I favor exterior 100% acrylic latex paints for garages, but you should be good to go with whatever. Just do not use a vinyl acrylic, ever.
I've got another idea that will be about the same but simpler.
Pressure wash it two or three times. Have fun and a few beers while doing it.
Call your insurance company about a claim for water damage and get the SR replaced.
Just kidding, I can't really advocate fraud - but you might need the policy if you pressure wash this wall.
Excellence is its own reward!
Pif, I have done this exact thing several times. What can I say. If you hand scrape you will lose more paint when the new coating softens it up, or later.
If a pressure washer scares you then use a wallpaper steamer, same technology. You have to control whatever tool you use, and I am advocating moisture to remove the failed coating.
I could be wrong, won't be the first time.
I'll have to take your word for it. I never thought you could turn down the pressure that much.
I definitely agree about the vinyl acrylic! Don't!
I wonder if the fact that this is a garage contributed to the condition. I can visuallize more temperature changes, moisture from car exhaust and rain/snow drippings, Maybe even a reaction from carbon monoxide, ?Excellence is its own reward!
did a 100 year old brick exterior complete with brick garden walls and brick heat pump enclosure. moisture @ every sprinkler head,@ every wall girdled by soaker hoses plenty of moisture around the heat pump. all contributed to the failure of paint jobs long past chalky mess not withstanding all those mortar lines act like roman aqueducts in the presence of moisture add a little rain or in your case steam/ multiple pressure washings and you'll have enough moisture bleeding back at you to pop off even SW's loxon primer pricey stuff but just what your looking for. hand scrape chisel pressure wash do what ever it takes it ain't gonna be easy and its going to take a lot but if you've got failing paint and chalk what ever else you hang on those walls wont stick. its imperative you let your substrate (wall) dry and when you think its dry let it dry some more use your 5in 1 as you go. spray w/ a 21 tip and back roll w/ a thick nap roller keep a brush handy for the stubborn places follow up with SW's conflex finish
This is a common problems in a warm, humid climate. What will cut the chalk and leave a surface closer to an adherant one is vinegar. I use a spray bottle for application. What I'm doing currently is prepping chalky walls to paint. I scrape all loose material, then if the chalk is bad, I soak it with vinegar and leave it for a short. This will also help any other bubbling occur, which is the time you want to find it (not while painting). I then go back, check scraping, then clean the area with household cleaner with a little vinegar added by spraying that on, then strongarm rubbing with a rag or a stiff bristle brush. I clean that with a fresh water rinse, wiping and rubbing again. If I'm using rags, I'll use a colored one for the cleaning fluid, because small parts of the rag will come apart and be left on the surface...a great visual aid. When I'm cleaning with fresh water, I use only white rags. Once it's all dry, you should be good to go...
Edited 8/3/2002 6:57:33 PM ET by NICKSTOKES